73 roadrunner

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 12:48 pm
I thought you went zero deck I think I am gonna go that rout as well.
Do you know how much they took took off the block? I have an original very low mileage 70 era short block 440 steel crank and measured off the top of the pistons im looking at cutting a lot off like .080 min just to get into neighborhood of zero my machinist is worried about push rod length did you have to go with custom length push rods?
I figured it needed to be checked any way but was just wondering what you did with yours?
My engine is supposed to be 10-1 as is for 70 only two diffrent compression ratios given in the books for that year that I can find ???? but like I said the piston is still way down inside the hole like .085 its a factory dish piston I dont know if its a Cast or forged??? but my thoughts were to just deck the block throw my cam in it with the new springs and run it keeping rpms under 5, I know dang well the LA rods are good for that as is and that's all I need or want to spin the tires once in a while.
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 11:24 am
Yes, mine was in the hole .080" as well. I think that's why some of the factory cars ran super and others were so-so in performance. The tolerances were all over the place.
Just decking the block and opting for flat top pistons should give you very good performance on pump gas.
Using a high duration camshaft will help prevent detonation as well. Hughes camshafts has a good website with all Mopar stuff. I almost went with one of the cams but ended up buying a Comp Cams extreme energy cam.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 12:39 pm
Did you have to get custom push rods or not seams to me there was some fudge factor with the hydraulic lifters
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 7:46 pm
I needed to because I shaved the heads also. Plus I went with roller rocker arms which take a cup on the top end of the push rod.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 8:56 pm
I just read/scrolled through the whole thread, impressive work :clap:



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 10:32 pm
eraezer wrote:I just read/scrolled through the whole thread, impressive work :clap:


Thank You !

I am waiting on some extra cash to buy a ton of Crushed Glass maybe two, so I can strip all the red paint back off of it.
I am having some adhesion issues in some areas due to the way I sprayed it, its all my fault due to my lack of experience painting but its a lesson I wont soon forget I can assure you.
I am hoping the red will come off easily and I will be able to save and leave most of the Epoxy. If so I will just respray another coat of epoxy over whats left and then start over. At any rate its a disappointment in my book.
Last edited by Doright on Thu Feb 19, 2015 12:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 7:54 am
I love these cars! So you think you have to take it back down to metal?

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 10:06 am
Dennis,
Try the heat gun method for stripping that paint. I find it generally leaves the primer coat in place as long as primer is well adhered.
If the paint has poor adhesion it should come off real easily.
I did this truck in just a couple of hours and clean up is a breeze.
Image
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 11:34 am
Doright wrote:
eraezer wrote:I just read/scrolled through the whole thread, impressive work :clap:


Thank You !

I am waiting on some extra cash to buy a ton of Crushed Glass maybe two, so I can strip all the red paint back off of it.
I am having some adhesion issues in some areas due to the way I spayed it, its all my fault due to my lack of experience painting but its a lesson I wont soon forget I can assure you.
I am hoping the red will come off easily and I will be able to save and leave most of the Epoxy. If so I will just respray another coat of epoxy over whats left and then start over. At any rate its a disappointment in my book.


Can you expand on the adhesion issues....what is the lesson?



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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 3:05 pm
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Dennis,
Try the heat gun method for stripping that paint. I find it generally leaves the primer coat in place as long as primer is well adhered.
If the paint has poor adhesion it should come off real easily.
I did this truck in just a couple of hours and clean up is a breeze.



This is chipping off not peeling don't know if that matters with using a heat gun?
It's Been sitting now a long time out door in sun too very long time now and again don't know if it matters? It would be cool if it came off that easy. The Epoxy is doing job its on there good! Also the problem seams to be only on front right side of car and not all of it.


Nova
I applied Two wet coats of epoxy allowing each to flash off Max re-coat window time my third wet coat I put on evidently was too light and prior coats drank up my third coat and started flashing off growing a skin in some places by the time I got around the whole car mixing Base coat and then spraying BC for a wet on wet application, because it flashed off and grew skin I didn't get a true wet on wet application because of which I didn't get a chemical bond. (Had I been faster or wetter I would have been ok) most of car is fine and in fact the problem area seams to be only on the Right out side of engine comp and right forward door jamb area and not the whole car, The rest appears to be and tests fine were I have tried to chip it. a result of applying final coat of Epoxy on that side either too light and or me moving to slowly in my BC application I think.
The mfg of products used has said they feel partially responsible to the problem as I did follow instructions and they have offered to pay for professional stripping and all new materials no problem no argument and without asking!!!!!!
Just me personally but I wouldn't let them pay $2200 for stripping it (the cheapest quote I could find they even agreed to pay it!) for something I'm responsible for knowing as the Painter I should have been aware and able to recognize an area flashing off and growing a skin that would cause this problem, following instructions or not! A Lack of experience is not the Paint MFG fault in my opinion. Materials is enough and very generous others may probably take advantage of there generosity and the situation but I'm not that type of person, I will get it stripped back down when I can afford it and then proceed with the restoration it sucks but it is what it is.

Wahoo
I am hoping to just blast off the BC/CC leaving the Epoxy.
Its Been my experience with blasting that Epoxy is almost impossible to blast off so I should be able to easily remove the Top coats leaving behind the Epoxy. Then just apply another coat of epoxy and then start repainting as normal.
I also think that areas that have full adhesion wont come off as easily and if it is indeed just the one area I will stop and just repair that one area.
I wont find out though till I get some GlassBlast hopefully soon.

This is why the project stopped and was never completed.
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.
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