Straight 57 Nomad

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2011 11:43 am
The Rock wrote:I have done a lot of research, and come to the conclusion that SS is better for solid colors.

I agree but not when two toning. The choice is yours. :allgood:
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2011 11:51 am
I'm listening, explain your reasoning



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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2011 12:46 pm
I know that the question was for Timbo, and I am sure that he will give a much better answer, but let me take a shot at it.

One of the reasons that I think BC is a better choice when two-toning is the ease with which it can be masked off and sprayed over. It is a much faster drying product, that is shot on "less wet" than a single stage. This means less wait time between drying and masking sessions which ultimately makes your life easier.

Also, I would assume in "most cases" that your mil thickness would be less shooting 2-3 coats of BC vs. 2-3 of SS. This reduced mil thickness can help with the longevity of the final product, less paint film buildup is almost always a desirable thing. It also makes your two-tone line less "definitive" and easier to bury in you following clearcoat sessions.

Finally, you may be more comfortable shooting a SS, but most painters find it easier to spray a BC. Of course this is merely personal preference and not anything that adds or takes away from the final product.

Now, lets hear Timbo or someone else come in and give you some good advice... I just thought I would take a shot at it. Your work looks GREAT by the way, keep it up!

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2011 12:51 pm
coletrain777 wrote:I know that the question was for Timbo, and I am sure that he will give a much better answer, but let me take a shot at it.

One of the reasons that I think BC is a better choice when two-toning is the ease with which it can be masked off and sprayed over. It is a much faster drying product, that is shot on "less wet" than a single stage. This means less wait time between drying and masking sessions which ultimately makes your life easier.

Also, I would assume in "most cases" that your mil thickness would be less shooting 2-3 coats of BC vs. 2-3 of SS. This reduced mil thickness can help with the longevity of the final product, less paint film buildup is almost always a desirable thing. It also makes your two-tone line less "definitive" and easier to bury in you following clearcoat sessions.

Finally, you may be more comfortable shooting a SS, but most painters find it easier to spray a BC. Of course this is merely personal preference and not anything that adds or takes away from the final product.

Now, lets hear Timbo or someone else come in and give you some good advice... I just thought I would take a shot at it. Your work looks GREAT by the way, keep it up!

enough said.... :pcorn:
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.



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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2011 1:49 pm
coletrain777 wrote:I know that the question was for Timbo, and I am sure that he will give a much better answer, but let me take a shot at it.

One of the reasons that I think BC is a better choice when two-toning is the ease with which it can be masked off and sprayed over. It is a much faster drying product, that is shot on "less wet" than a single stage. This means less wait time between drying and masking sessions which ultimately makes your life easier.

Also, I would assume in "most cases" that your mil thickness would be less shooting 2-3 coats of BC vs. 2-3 of SS. This reduced mil thickness can help with the longevity of the final product, less paint film buildup is almost always a desirable thing. It also makes your two-tone line less "definitive" and easier to bury in you following clearcoat sessions.

Finally, you may be more comfortable shooting a SS, but most painters find it easier to spray a BC. Of course this is merely personal preference and not anything that adds or takes away from the final product.

Now, lets hear Timbo or someone else come in and give you some good advice... I just thought I would take a shot at it. Your work looks GREAT by the way, keep it up!

Very well said, and I do appreciate the input. However, in my case I plan to wait until the SS is thoroughly dry, then sand it before clearing. That takes care of most of your objections, and the two tone line is only 5 or 6 inches long in a recessed crease.


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Of course that seam will be filled in to make it flat with the roof pillar. But that is the only place on the exterior where the two colors meet.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2011 5:16 pm
The Rock wrote:
coletrain777 wrote:I know that the question was for Timbo, and I am sure that he will give a much better answer, but let me take a shot at it.

One of the reasons that I think BC is a better choice when two-toning is the ease with which it can be masked off and sprayed over. It is a much faster drying product, that is shot on "less wet" than a single stage. This means less wait time between drying and masking sessions which ultimately makes your life easier.

Also, I would assume in "most cases" that your mil thickness would be less shooting 2-3 coats of BC vs. 2-3 of SS. This reduced mil thickness can help with the longevity of the final product, less paint film buildup is almost always a desirable thing. It also makes your two-tone line less "definitive" and easier to bury in you following clearcoat sessions.

Finally, you may be more comfortable shooting a SS, but most painters find it easier to spray a BC. Of course this is merely personal preference and not anything that adds or takes away from the final product.

Now, lets hear Timbo or someone else come in and give you some good advice... I just thought I would take a shot at it. Your work looks GREAT by the way, keep it up!

Very well said, and I do appreciate the input. However, in my case I plan to wait until the SS is thoroughly dry, then sand it before clearing. That takes care of most of your objections, and the two tone line is only 5 or 6 inches long in a recessed crease.


Image



Of course that seam will be filled in to make it flat with the roof pillar. But that is the only place on the exterior where the two colors meet.

No matter how much research you do the fact remains......
Base/Clear is easier and less time consuming for you here. Plus you save on materials in this particular application. Flow coating is completely uncalled for also. It is your project, money, and time. Whatever you are comfy with go for it. What is your time and money worth? :wink:
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2011 5:57 pm
With solid white and yellow and a tiny little 2 tone line, just do the concept SSU and skip the clear coat all together.

Unless your spraying in a pristine booth, you'll be sorry if you clear it. Both of those colors will show every last thing that happens to fall between your SSU and your clear whereas the straight SSU will hide damned near everything and can be touched up with ease.

If you just have to have that little tiny bit of extra pop just use ppg's recomendation of adding clear into your final coats of SSU vs. overcoating it with straight clear.



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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2011 8:12 pm
Thanks guys, I know you want the best outcome for me, but I think I can do this. The owner is willing to pay for it and I have the time.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2011 9:15 pm
The Rock wrote:Thanks guys, I know you want the best outcome for me, but I think I can do this. The owner is willing to pay for it and I have the time.

well there you go. Carry on Sir! :rockon: :rockon:
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.



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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 8:51 pm
Rock
You have some very fine metal working skills sir :worthy:
I wish my metal working skills were as good as yours Im just starting out learning and screwing panels up trying to fix what should be replaced.

With metal working skills like yours Im sure you know what the heck your doing with your SSU plan The car is AWSOME!
Nothing looks as good as single stage done properly on old classics.

By the way on that first page you said you shrunk all the metal? on the whole car? what are you using to shrink with? shrinking disk? made by who?
I love how you took the quarters off the inner structure to work the skin.

I am now looking for a Tig welder to add to my arsenal but I am going to get a 0000 tip for my gas set up first and try that I just cant get my Miller mig to weld that nice on skin, Plus I feel more comfortable with gas any way what are your thoughts on gas welding skin? a lot of guys swear by it others like the Tig.
For me right now a new tip is a whole lot cheaper than a new Tig welder.

Are you using files to dress your skin when working panels or are you sanding them?

When you did the hammer and Dolley work on your welds are you not grinding the back side down? it doesnt look like it or you did very little grinding on the back side.
I am having problems getting my welds to stretch after welding with my mig I am grinding front and back sides down and then planishing the heck out of the beads but still they dont stretch the way I want them too, Then I get frustrated.

Also on your re-plated parts are you doing that stuff on your own or are you sending that stuff out?
I have been looking into home plating kits for small stuff not chrome or any thing like that just the black oxide and nickle looks simple enough and doesnt look like it will break the bank and might save a buck or two in the long run. http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/index.html

AWSOME work please hang around I am sure there's more than a few of us here that appreciate the level of craftsmanship you are displaying thanks for sharing. :happy:
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.
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