Straight 57 Nomad

Show off your work! Anything from final results to full start-to-finish project journals.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 9:08 pm
The Rock wrote:
timbo wrote:What primers and top coat are you using....great Job!

Thanks Tim, I had a little PPG epoxy red oxide left over, so I'm using that on the inside. But the outside will be all ********** epoxy and PPG concept SS two tone yellow and white, covered with ********** universal clear. I plan to flatten the SS, and the clear, then a couple more coats of clear.


Will ********** epoxy fill those file/sand scratches? obviously this isn't your first time around the block...Keep up the good work! :goodjob:
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.



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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 9:37 pm
timbo wrote:Will ********** epoxy fill those file/sand scratches? obviously this isn't your first time around the block...Keep up the good work! :goodjob:

It needs more time to dry before sanding, but yes it will fill.



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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 10:35 pm
Doright wrote:Rock
By the way on that first page you said you shrunk all the metal? on the whole car? what are you using to shrink with? shrinking disk? made by who?
I love how you took the quarters off the inner structure to work the skin. :happy:

Thanks for the compliments.
Yes, I used a stud gun to shrink most all of the metal, only used a disc on one stubborn spot.
Having the 1/4s off the car was the only way I could have done all the planishing, but these are replacements from another car.
Doright wrote:Rock
I am now looking for a Tig welder to add to my arsenal but I am going to get a 0000 tip for my gas set up first and try that I just cant get my Miller mig to weld that nice on skin, Plus I feel more comfortable with gas any way what are your thoughts on gas welding skin? a lot of guys swear by it others like the Tig.
For me right now a new tip is a whole lot cheaper than a new Tig welder.

I have done some torch welding, but it requires planishing while the metal is still red hot, because it shrinks so much. With the tig, you can weld the whole seam, grind it down, then planish. Its just a lot easier to get good results with the tig, and both have a soft weld as opposed to the hard weld of the mig. I have heard some expert metal finishers say they like gas, then tig, and mig as a last resort.
Doright wrote:Rock
Are you using files to dress your skin when working panels or are you sanding them?

When you did the hammer and Dolley work on your welds are you not grinding the back side down? it doesnt look like it or you did very little grinding on the back side.
I am having problems getting my welds to stretch after welding with my mig I am grinding front and back sides down and then planishing the heck out of the beads but still they dont stretch the way I want them too, Then I get frustrated.

I use a 2" roll lock disc to knock most of the weld down, and finish it with a file.

I took pictures of the back side to show the penetration. I do sand it down but not as much because the file doesn't work back there most of the time.
If you check the tips and tricks sticky, I posted on there about stretching welds
Doright wrote:Rock
Also on your re-plated parts are you doing that stuff on your own or are you sending that stuff out?

I can get a 5 gallon bucket of parts plated in zink for $20.00 if I clean them, so they only have to dip.
For the chrome I have started just having the plater strip and dip, and I do all the repairs, sanding and polishing. It does require many trips, but I am in control of the quality.



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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 10:36 pm
Shrinking the skin
The way you said it it sounded like you used a shrinking disk across the whole panels.
Spot shrinking small spots with a spot welder shrinking tip is totally diffrent.

Welding
Im going to try gas welding
I like Tig welding though I have to get one.

Shrinking weld bead
I wonder if by not grinding off all the left over weld bead on the back side of the skin is aiding you in stretching the weld bead while planishing?
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 9:16 am
Doright wrote:Shrinking the skin
The way you said it it sounded like you used a shrinking disk across the whole panels.
Spot shrinking small spots with a spot welder shrinking tip is totally diffrent.

Welding
Im going to try gas welding
I like Tig welding though I have to get one.

Shrinking weld bead
I wonder if by not grinding off all the left over weld bead on the back side of the skin is aiding you in stretching the weld bead while planishing?

I think the way it goes is, if you are going to planish a cold weld then grind the bead off ( otherwise, you would be just flattening the bead )
When planishing a red hot bead, then you could also stretch the metal. But the best way to weld sheet metal with a torch, is without any rod. Then each blow is stretching the metal back into shape. These two videos will give you a good idea of how much shrinkage I'm talking about. The heat affected zone is enormous with torch welding. On the other hand, I can run a tig bead all the way across a panel continuously and let it cool, then grind and planish.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rv5bKXJ3 ... re=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WRqbdKZA ... er&list=UL

As for shrinking the whole panel, that is exactly what I said and what I did. And it didn't get done in a day. LOL
Here is some chevys with the typical factory bows. These are very well restored cars, and in no way am I implying that anything is wrong with them. This is just the way cars were made in the 50s. You get the same reflection on each side of the seam.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 8:48 am
I am going to try to learn the Hammer welding technique thanks for the link that one video is worth a thousand words! :wink:

I think I see what you are talking about as far as Bow goes It will be interested too see the same photos of your when done.

This is my 57 I am going to get to some day when I get a few others out of the way.
Its just going to be a mild custom The guys over at the Hamb straightened me out about what to do with it. :flatten: Ruff group! but I got the message.
But I wish I had another to build a wild Retro Rod with, custom alloys with a new frame and suspension system with Big brakes and custom electronic fuel injection. :wink:
Just not too many of these left though, and expensive when you do find one even in this condition.
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Rust free Pieces parts to fix my quarters and rockers
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You know it just doesnt matter wich make 1957 was a cool year for cars
Im looking for a 62 Chrysler 2 door hardtop if any one knows of one for sale

This is a 41 I did a while back

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lJQx1Gah_Fc
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 10:36 am
Rock

So were are you at in your project?
I would love to see more of it!
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 12:26 pm
Work on the project usually doesn't progress much in the morning, but it slows down some in the afternoon.
When progress allows it, I will post updates. Interest and comments are always appreciated.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 4:25 pm
The Rock wrote:Work on the project usually doesn't progress much in the morning, but it slows down some in the afternoon.
When progress allows it, I will post updates. Interest and comments are always appreciated.


Let's see, no progress in the morning and then it slows down in the afternoon. Hmmmm, sounds like my work schedule. :rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl:
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 9:54 pm
Had to spend quite a bit of time on the distortion from welding the edges and then I filled the weld area at the edge with lead.

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I guess I don't get out enough, but I was out a couple weeks ago and noticed these extremely bright lights and decided that its
time for an upgrade. The ones I have on the wall don't help much, but I'm sure one of this 8 foot fixtures low on the wall will do the trick for each side.

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