Doright wrote:Rock
By the way on that first page you said you shrunk all the metal? on the whole car? what are you using to shrink with? shrinking disk? made by who?
I love how you took the quarters off the inner structure to work the skin.
Thanks for the compliments.
Yes, I used a stud gun to shrink most all of the metal, only used a disc on one stubborn spot.
Having the 1/4s off the car was the only way I could have done all the planishing, but these are replacements from another car.
Doright wrote:Rock
I am now looking for a Tig welder to add to my arsenal but I am going to get a 0000 tip for my gas set up first and try that I just cant get my Miller mig to weld that nice on skin, Plus I feel more comfortable with gas any way what are your thoughts on gas welding skin? a lot of guys swear by it others like the Tig.
For me right now a new tip is a whole lot cheaper than a new Tig welder.
I have done some torch welding, but it requires planishing while the metal is still red hot, because it shrinks so much. With the tig, you can weld the whole seam, grind it down, then planish. Its just a lot easier to get good results with the tig, and both have a soft weld as opposed to the hard weld of the mig. I have heard some expert metal finishers say they like gas, then tig, and mig as a last resort.
Doright wrote:Rock
Are you using files to dress your skin when working panels or are you sanding them?
When you did the hammer and Dolley work on your welds are you not grinding the back side down? it doesnt look like it or you did very little grinding on the back side.
I am having problems getting my welds to stretch after welding with my mig I am grinding front and back sides down and then planishing the heck out of the beads but still they dont stretch the way I want them too, Then I get frustrated.
I use a 2" roll lock disc to knock most of the weld down, and finish it with a file.
I took pictures of the back side to show the penetration. I do sand it down but not as much because the file doesn't work back there most of the time.
If you check the tips and tricks sticky, I posted on there about stretching welds
Doright wrote:Rock
Also on your re-plated parts are you doing that stuff on your own or are you sending that stuff out?
I can get a 5 gallon bucket of parts plated in zink for $20.00 if I clean them, so they only have to dip.
For the chrome I have started just having the plater strip and dip, and I do all the repairs, sanding and polishing. It does require many trips, but I am in control of the quality.