Re: 1940 Ford 1/2 Ton Pickup Project
Posted: Sun Oct 23, 2011 9:52 pm
Yea I got tons of pics located in south Mississippi give me a couple days and I'll get some up
Paint Your Car! Auto Body Tips and Techniques.
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https://www.autobody101.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=17264
40fordpu wrote: . . .Q1. I believe epoxy primer is the best? Why?
40fordpu wrote:(Q2. Should I hit the cab with a "wipedown" or sanding of a specific grit? I have heard DA with 80 grit.)
40fordpu wrote:(Q3. Has anyone heard of a "shrinking hammer"? Is it necessary/needed/important? I have heard good things about the kit from Eastwood)
40fordpu wrote:(Q4. How do you determine the difference between using a lightweight and high build? Any suggestions on brand/type?)
40fordpu wrote:(Q5. Is block sanding the correct form of sanding here?)
40fordpu wrote: (Q6. Is this the same epoxy primer?
40fordpu wrote: Self etching? Poly?
40fordpu wrote:(Q7. Why?)
40fordpu wrote: At this point I would be ready for base/paint.
40fordpu wrote:(Q8. Is there one "gun" that can prime and paint or are they separate guns.
40fordpu wrote: Are eastwood guns good or are there better suggestions?)
The rate at which a compressor can deliver air volume is measured in cubic feet per minute (CFM). Because atmospheric pressure plays a role in how fast air moves into the cylinder, the CFM will vary depending upon the atmospheric pressure. It will also vary with the temperature and humidity.
To set an even playing field, manufacturers calculate standard cubic feet per minute (SCFM) as CFM at sea level at 68 degrees farenheit at 36% relative humidity. If you reduce the pressure the SCFM goes up and if you raise the pressure the SCFM goes down.
The CFM and PSI ratings are important because they indicate the tools that a particular compressor can operate.