My C4 Corvette Restoration Project

Show off your work! Anything from final results to full start-to-finish project journals.

User avatar

Settled In
Posts: 71
Joined: Tue Nov 15, 2011 3:05 pm
Location: Mass
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 3:18 pm
Don't mind spending some $$$$ on good paint and good equipment.
I didn't take this on to save money, just always wanted to paint a complete car and now I'm retired and have the time (and patience) to spend on it.

Surprising to me is not which paint, but finding a local supplier to work with.
The first two body shop supply stores I went to, lets just say, were not very helpful. :(
Guy said hobbyist always come back and blame them if the paint doesn't go on right, and I guess I understand that.

I'm also looking at painting (the color) in pieces vs. spraying the whole car at once.
If I stick with the Dark Red Metallic color (from reading this forum) I should spray the car assembled. Feel like I might have better control (less overwhelming) if I change to a solid color and do it in pieces.

Anyway my Summit priming gun came, looks OK but it's covered in grease and needs a good cleaning. Here it is with the Iwata (for the color) I bought this summer.
Image


Going to focus on the hood and try to get it primed before the cold weather sets in.
Lot's more stone chip and paint bubble damage than I expected around the lights.
Image

Image



Fully Engaged
Posts: 103
Joined: Sun Dec 26, 2010 4:14 pm
Location: Fort Myers Beach, Florida, Cleveland, Ohio
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 2:20 am
Sounds like you and I are in the same boat- I'm retired, and doing this because I love it. Having the time and not being concerned about the money is the way to go. As I am sure you have heard here, metallic colors are a challenge for a person new to painting. However, you obviously bought a good gun, which can compensate for limited experience. I have sprayed metallics in the past, and they certainly take require a more precise hand than a non metallic color. Here is my suggestion- practice on something before you commit to color on your Vette. I've read 2 of John Kozminski's books (the guy who started House of Kolor), and he makes an extremely valid point-treat your primer and sealer coats like you would your top coats. In other words, be precise and establish a pattern to follow for your particular car. After you have primed, blocked, primed, blocked, and sealed your car, you have actually "painted" it several times already. When you go to do the color, you will already be used to the process. You may also want to get a cheaper metallic (reds are expensive) and practice on an old fender and door lined up on your garage wall to get the feel of it. Worst case scenaro? You don't get the results you want, and you wet sand the base, and do it again. Do like I do-put on some music you enjoy, work for awhile, and when you are done for the day ( or night ) reward yourself with a cold one or two. Good luck.
Life is short. Play hard.

User avatar

Top Contributor
Posts: 3110
Joined: Wed Dec 01, 2010 10:52 pm

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 10:07 am
SuperL98 wrote:I have a typical "car guy" background, when it comes to bodywork. I've welded in patch panels, replaced doors & panels, banged out dents, etc., but I've always just rattle can primed the repairs and taken the car to the painter. Years ago, I fit the Greenwood Body Kit to the Vette also, but then I had a body shop finish up and paint the pieces.

Unfortunately, I started this restoration the same way, figuring to do the bodywork and send the painting out, so I got off to a few false starts. :(
Reading this forum has inspired me to slow things down and take on the painting myself, try to do things right.
The car has just been sitting in the garage for the last few years anyway, and it's the first car I've had thats probably worth the effort.

Just bought an Iwata LPH400 to do the BC/CC, and I already had a 7hp 60 Gallon compressor in my shop. Had the idea to prime with the Iwata to get use to spraying with it, but its so darn pretty I just ordered a $40 crap gun from Summit (1.8 tip) to prime with.
I tossed out all my rattle cans :mrgreen:

A local body shop had sprayed the rear bumper with a 2K epoxy "that he was using that day". It wet sands easy and I intend to sand most of it off now, but it helped me to see how I did on the bodywork and fitting.

I initially bought a fiberglass front bumper also, but after two weeks of fussing I couldn't get it anywhere near fitting. Had another local guy sand/strip the old urethane bumper and fix the holes (from the body kit). He is the one that told me to use the Lord Fusor to fill the holes in the SMC. They just sprayed a thin coat of a 2k primer that I'm going to sand off also. Maybe I'll try that Poly-Flex filler and a long sanding board on the waves, but I think I should try to bond something on the backside first. I may also make another attempt at fitting the fiberglass one.

Thanks for the interest, the hardest part for me is slowing things down, and maybe I can do stuff once instead of three times :roll:

I also need to pick a paint line to start using.

What are your local jobber paint lines to choose from?
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.



* Banned *
Posts: 876
Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2011 12:19 pm
Location: (account suspended)
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 1:07 pm
This might be moved but i noticed that you have those little filters that come with the guns. I never use them and have been told not to use them. if you strain your paint properly there should be no reason to use them and if they get even the slightest clog, will inhibit the paint flow to the nozzle to atomize properly. Others may disagree, But i never use them.
Life is Short, Live your life and Do what You want to Do!

User avatar

Settled In
Posts: 71
Joined: Tue Nov 15, 2011 3:05 pm
Location: Mass
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 4:34 pm
deitymotorsports,

I don't mind anyone pointing anything out, that's why I started my post.
Haven't sprayed anything with either gun yet, or any gun ... I'm a first timer :oops:
I did read (not to use those filters) before also and I probably will leave them out.

timbo

I'm not going back, to the two local places I tried, again ... just a bad vibe. I would hate to have to walk in there with a problem.
Someone recommended a different place as being friendlier to hobbyists, and it's within driving distance to me. Looks like they sell PPG.
http://www.centralpaint.com

I'm planning on finishing the bodywork, sanding and sealing this winter, and hold off final painting (color and clear) till it gets warm again in early spring. I have a garage but not heated. Going to work on (and epoxy prime) the bumpers and smaller removable panels in my basement workshop. It stays about 65 F all year long down there.

The only reason to pick a paint line now would be to use the epoxy primer from the same manufacturer. Don't know how important that is now a days?

Is it safe to use epoxy primer from one brand now and 2K primer & BC/CC from another in the spring?

User avatar

Top Contributor
Posts: 3110
Joined: Wed Dec 01, 2010 10:52 pm

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2011 7:54 pm
SuperL98 wrote:deitymotorsports,

I don't mind anyone pointing anything out, that's why I started my post.
Haven't sprayed anything with either gun yet, or any gun ... I'm a first timer :oops:
I did read (not to use those filters) before also and I probably will leave them out.

timbo

I'm not going back, to the two local places I tried, again ... just a bad vibe. I would hate to have to walk in there with a problem.
Someone recommended a different place as being friendlier to hobbyists, and it's within driving distance to me. Looks like they sell PPG.
http://www.centralpaint.com

I'm planning on finishing the bodywork, sanding and sealing this winter, and hold off final painting (color and clear) till it gets warm again in early spring. I have a garage but not heated. Going to work on (and epoxy prime) the bumpers and smaller removable panels in my basement workshop. It stays about 65 F all year long down there.

The only reason to pick a paint line now would be to use the epoxy primer from the same manufacturer. Don't know how important that is now a days?

Is it safe to use epoxy primer from one brand now and 2K primer & BC/CC from another in the spring?

yeah toss the filters.
i like kirker epoxy
ppg economy primers are the way to go if you will be using that line
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.



* Banned *
Posts: 876
Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2011 12:19 pm
Location: (account suspended)
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2011 10:20 pm
I feel for yah on the jobbers not "taking" care of yah too well. I never understood that in this business, or in some other businesses. specially in this economy. Once you do find a supplier, stick with em. For me the best ones are the ones that not only have good prices, but are never ever afraid to say there not sure and to call the company right in front of you and they learn, you learn and theres no b.s. It's sad but the guys that have been around long enough either retired, or quit because the companies will not pay them enough for what there bringing to the table for the pro, or the beginner. Hell if we were all pro's who would we pass down our skills and love of this business too? Anyways Stick with the ones that are honest and will take care of yah, no matter how many million questions you have. After all its there job!..... :allgood:
Life is Short, Live your life and Do what You want to Do!



Fully Engaged
Posts: 103
Joined: Sun Dec 26, 2010 4:14 pm
Location: Fort Myers Beach, Florida, Cleveland, Ohio
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2011 11:42 pm
I would think, especially for your first time, that you would want to stick with one product line start to finish. If you start mixing product lines, and there is a problem, who do you point the finger at? Why would a rep for one company take a hit when a product from another failed? Like I stated in an earlier response, I use all PPG stuff and have had no problems at all. Why take a chance?
Life is short. Play hard.

User avatar

Settled In
Posts: 71
Joined: Tue Nov 15, 2011 3:05 pm
Location: Mass
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 8:59 am
Well, I'm no longer a spray gun "Virgin". :happy:
Had a string of 60+ deg days and figured I would prime the hood before winter sets in.

Decided to start with PPG Shopline Epoxy for now with the $35 Summit Spraygun.

Wiped down the hood with W&G remover and then Alcohol the night before and banned the family (and their fingers) from the garage.

Tacked and sprayed the first coat at the warmest part of the day (noon).
Started with the gun fluid control wide open and about 35psi with the fan trimmed just a bit.
Gave a good pattern, but sprayed way to fast and to much paint for me, I felt I had no real control.
First coat, no runs but some orange peel.
Image

Image

I know, I'm going to get away from using plastic drop cloths, all I had around :shocked:

Block sanded the orange peel with 320 grit (wet) the next day, W&G and Alcohol and sat overnight again.
Second coat I turned the fluid control down one turn, with the pressure at 30psi, and got a much nicer atomized pattern.
Slower, and I felt much more in control of what was happening.
Image

Image

Image


Not to bad for the first time, a little surprised at how nice the paint laid out the second time.

Bought the materials to start on the front bumper "waves" next.
Also looking into heating the garage this winter.

BTW, thanks for all the advice & I am trying follow it as much as possible :goodjob:



* Banned *
Posts: 876
Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2011 12:19 pm
Location: (account suspended)
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 11:47 am
great job! welcome to the body work and paint world!. the plastic is a great way to mask fast, just go to your jobber or online anyplace. and get the proper plastic that is coated on one side that the paint adheres to and will not flake off! To save a few bucks, i use standard masking tape on non-critical areas, and then either yellow from 3m or green 3m tape for the critical areas. Good job! :clap:
Life is Short, Live your life and Do what You want to Do!
PreviousNext

Return to Completed & In Progress Member Projects

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Doright and 80 guests