One of my favorite project threads here - this was way more than a simple strip & shoot, and you proved to every newbie out there that these types of projects can be done at home when you approach it the right way.
Congratulations on doing a fantastic job on that car, it really looks great.
-Chris
My C4 Corvette Restoration Project
Ditto Chris.
I will add this: I would snug the parts down, tape the edges and cut/buff with them installed. You don't want to be dealing with some of that stuff on a work stand moving and flexing grabbing, burning, or cracking.......... Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
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Thanks Chris That means a lot to me. I know I said it at the beginning of this thread, but thank you for this site.
Yes, I had it in my mind to go back to focusing on one panel at a time, but I agree it's better to leave them mounted on the car. I don't want to spider crack that paint (on the bumpers) after all this work. I'm lucky that I got a good deal on those KwikLift ramps used (from a guy that needed money to run for local political office), they get the car up just at the right height to do the bodywork. Timbo, you and 68 Coronet R/T, have helped me a lot with your suggestions. I may not respond right away, but I consider all of them. I went out and put sticky foam tape under all the small parts before I sprayed, and that may have saved me watching one get blown off onto the floor. Thanks again |
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I've got about 40 hours into sanding, buffing, and assembly.
Painting & bodywork has to be the most labor intensive thing I have ever done. Have all the sanding & buffing done except for the gill panels. Started out sanding the hood and all the horizontal surfaces with 1000 grit, because they had the most orange peel. Then sanded everything with 2000 grit. Started the buffing with the 3M 05973 and the Orange foam pad, but it was cutting to slow, so the paint store gave me a quart of coarser 3M 06031 which cut a lot faster. He said I should have been using a wool pad for the course cutting, but I was so afraid of burning through the clearcoat, I don't mind the slower cutting with the Orange pad. Followed that with the Orange pad and the 3M 05973 and then a final cleanup with the White pad and the 3M 06068. I found out that most of the work was done after the first step (with the 06031) and I could probably have gone right to the 06068, but I had the stuff anyway. Also figured out that if the sanding scratches aren't out after the course buffing, going on to the finer grits is a waste of time. Had to go back and redo a lot of the panels a few times, till I figured that out. Going to close up that hood gap, left it large (for now) so I wouldn't chip the door. Assembling from the back to the front, hopefully for the last time. Couldn't bring myself to putting the old door weather stripping back on, so another $140 bucks for a new set and the window felts. Going to final align the hood, and start putting the front back together. Then sit done at the workbench and get after these runs on the gill panel (marked with pen). I'm hoping to not have to spray it again, so I'm going to take it very slow. It's no show car and I can see places I could have done better, but I'm happy with the way it's coming out. Maybe I'll get to drive this thing this summer afterall. |
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1000 to 2000 is quite a jump. It looks good hope you get to drive it soon.
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
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Looks great...the front bumper came out nice and flat too. I am a newbie to and just finished my son's car. My first paint job...You gave me some good ideas on the flexable bumpers...I may redo his front one soon and try to get it flatter.
Well done! |
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It's funny, researching most subjects (if you toss out the extremes) people generally agree on an approach. With wet sanding and buffing, everyone seams to have a different method. Some start with 800 grit and go up through 3500 grit, some say they only use 2000 grit for everything. The choice of buffing products and pads I found almost overwhelming. I had to keep reminding myself that I want this car to be something I can drive a lot, so I didn't want to sand all the orange peel out, or chase every scratch down though the clear coat, and then be afraid to drive it after all that work. Tried to get it down to two sanding and two buffing steps, and was hoping for a good "OEM" type appearance. BTW, the 06031 was some old stock that he gave me for free, when I went back in looking for more aggressive material (I spent so much for the other two bottles). The two counter guy's were still arguing about the best way to buff my car when I was going out the door. I may still go back over a few spots sometime in the future.
Thanks Your Porsche build was one that I was following and it came out great. I complain about the "Corvette Tax" on parts, but my guess is the " Porsche" tax is just as bad. |
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Looks great good job!
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Well pretty much done, except for a few adjustments and a rattle in the door to figure out.
Took it around the block for the first time in over a year. I'm a Chevy fan and all, but putting this car back together was more like working on a "Kit Car" than a production car. The way the panels mount and adjust is just lousy, but I got it together & aligned the best I could. Guess that was the 80's in American car design. All sanded and buffed out. Should be all done spending money, so I'll go over the receipts and post a final cost. I'm more and more comfortable with the way it turned out, and I sure missed driving it. Got to shorten up those exhaust tips, now the old body work is gone. |
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Settled In
Posts: 20
Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2012 11:55 pm Country: Canada |
Amazing!!
Corvette's aren't really my thing usually but I'm loving yours It looks great and I wish I could see it in person. I really enjoyed the thread and appreciate your taking the time to share your project with us. |
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