• Advertisement
 

My C4 Corvette Restoration Project

Show off your work! Anything from final results to full start-to-finish project journals.



Settled In
Posts: 91
Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2011 1:20 am
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 4:30 pm
I'm tuned in for the build. :goodjob:

User avatar

Settled In
Posts: 71
Joined: Tue Nov 15, 2011 3:05 pm
Location: Mass
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 5:56 pm
Spent a little time on the front bumper this weekend.

Got my materials.
Image


The top edge of the bumper lines up to the hood by adjusting how it is sandwiched between two metal frames.
My idea is to adjust this the way I want it, before filling the depressions, and than not messing with these frames after (leave it all assembled).
Image


Did a quick block sand of the old primer to see how bad the dips are.
Considered applying heat to the high (or Low) spots to get closer to flat before skimming the filler, but I figure it took 20 years to deform and it's probably as stabile as its going to get. If I try to heat form it, it might move back the way it is now over time.
Image


Removed all the old primer and wiped everything down with alcohol.
Image


Skimmed the whole surface with the Poly Flex.
Image


Wet sanded the first coat till I hit plastic.
Image


Going to skim coat and sand once more before I spray on a guide coat.
I can see it's going to take a few rounds to build up the low spots, but I'm trying to put the filler on in thin coats.

And I have to get up off the floor with this, my knees are killing me. :cry:

User avatar

Top Contributor
Posts: 3107
Joined: Wed Dec 01, 2010 10:52 pm

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 10:07 pm
SuperL98 wrote:Spent a little time on the front bumper this weekend.

Got my materials.
Image


The top edge of the bumper lines up to the hood by adjusting how it is sandwiched between two metal frames.
My idea is to adjust this the way I want it, before filling the depressions, and than not messing with these frames after (leave it all assembled).
Image


Did a quick block sand of the old primer to see how bad the dips are.
Considered applying heat to the high (or Low) spots to get closer to flat before skimming the filler, but I figure it took 20 years to deform and it's probably as stabile as its going to get. If I try to heat form it, it might move back the way it is now over time.
Image


Removed all the old primer and wiped everything down with alcohol.
Image


Skimmed the whole surface with the Poly Flex.
Image


Wet sanded the first coat till I hit plastic.
Image


Going to skim coat and sand once more before I spray on a guide coat.
I can see it's going to take a few rounds to build up the low spots, but I'm trying to put the filler on in thin coats.

And I have to get up off the floor with this, my knees are killing me. :cry:


Try some 25 dollar work stands or saw horses. It's coming along. :clap:
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.



* Banned *
Posts: 876
Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2011 12:19 pm
Location: (account suspended)
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 10:14 pm
11 bucks for two plastic saw horses at menards all day long. btw. you bought the right stuff for that bumper. Great job! :clap:
Life is Short, Live your life and Do what You want to Do!

User avatar

Settled In
Posts: 71
Joined: Tue Nov 15, 2011 3:05 pm
Location: Mass
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 12:26 pm
I have sawhorses :rotfl:
But the bumper is so flexible it bends and collapsed on them.
I want it to sit as flat as possible while I block sand.
Need to buy a big piece of plywood to make a flat supporting surface up on the horses.

The Poly Flex was a little gummy sanding dry at first (a sticky skin on top), but I found it sanded easy 180 wet.

But it's good stuff, feathered right into the urethane nice.



* Banned *
Posts: 876
Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2011 12:19 pm
Location: (account suspended)
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 8:42 pm
yes the bumpers are a pain sitting by themselves. thats why i do the prep work on the car, then pull the bumper off for painting. More support on the car than flopping in the breeze.
Life is Short, Live your life and Do what You want to Do!

User avatar

Top Contributor
Posts: 1280
Joined: Sat Jun 09, 2007 9:06 pm
Location: Out in the garage.
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 11:30 pm
The bumper's looking good. :goodjob:
The PolyFlex will help to stabilize the bumper too. Should
last another few decades...
"If you can't move it, paint it." - U.S. Army



Settled In
Posts: 60
Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2008 3:46 pm

Country:
Australia
PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 1:45 am
I'm getting ready to repaint my C4 too and bought a new bumper thinking there was no satisfactory way to fix the waves.
Maybe I'll give Poly-Flex a go.



* Banned *
Posts: 876
Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2011 12:19 pm
Location: (account suspended)
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 1:49 am
i've used poly flex on all "soft" bumpers since the stuff came out, and have had no problems. Does what it says it does.
Life is Short, Live your life and Do what You want to Do!



* Banned *
Posts: 876
Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2011 12:19 pm
Location: (account suspended)
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 1:51 am
SuperL98 wrote:I have sawhorses :rotfl:
But the bumper is so flexible it bends and collapsed on them.
I want it to sit as flat as possible while I block sand.
Need to buy a big piece of plywood to make a flat supporting surface up on the horses.

The Poly Flex was a little gummy sanding dry at first (a sticky skin on top), but I found it sanded easy 180 wet.

But it's good stuff, feathered right into the urethane nice.


I noticed that paper on your longblock is yellow, is it for wet applications?
Life is Short, Live your life and Do what You want to Do!
PreviousNext

Return to Completed & In Progress Member Projects

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google Adsense [Bot] and 4 guests