My C4 Corvette Restoration Project
i had one of those regulators for 6 yrs. worked well. gotta link so i can look at buying another?
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
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That's an old Sears Craftsman compressor I've had forever, and I must have bought the regulator with it.
It's says Campbell Hausfeld part# PA212500AV Only one (on the internet) I can find is Part# PA212503AV Home Depot has it listed - looks like a newer model & not as heavy built. http://www.homedepot.com/buy/tools-hard ... 94747.html |
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The new model I have found is indeed smaller.
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
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Well, these cold months have really slowed my progress.
Managed to get a coat of epoxy on the bumper, and it looks like the waves in the top are pretty well gone. I did find a few pinholes that needed filling, and with the primer I could see bumps around where the bumper repair shop had filled the holes left by the body kit. So I skim coated those again, and sanded the bumper ready for another coat of epoxy. Pulled the gill panels and rocks and gravel had worked in between the body kit and panel leaving a line of deep gouges. Skimmed coated and sanded them out. Also pulled the rocker panels. The body shop (that primed the rear bumper) had primed these for me with a Beige epoxy. I just sanded them over and will shoot a coat of black epoxy on them. So I just need a warmish (50+) day to heat up the garage and prime these parts. Hopefully for the last time, and move on to the lower door repair and pull the rear fender flares. Had a friend drop by and he said "Oh your painting your car", and I said "No. I'm sanding my car, and sanding and sanding and sanding" |
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What a task.......great work!!!!!!
A gooD PaiNT JOB is
OnE BiG RuN.....!!!!!!! |
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Now the hard questions come.
How far do you go to improve the "Factory" fit of some body panels. This small rear quarter panels fit is just terrible. The panel is bonded to the main body and the fit is just as bad on the driver's side. It really stood out how bad, when I sprayed some cheap primer over the body kit hole repair. Can't really try to align the door in, because the door top lines up ok with the top panel. Bottom panel is set in about quarter an inch. Seams the only solution would be peeling the panel off the under shell, and build up the mounting surface to bring the panel out to match the door & bond it back on. That's a lot of work, on both sides. Funny thing is, the body kit covered this area up, and I never noticed it before. |
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If the door lines up everywhere but that corner then yes moving the quarter out sounds like the best solution to me.
How does the bottom of the door line up with the rocker panel? 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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Really don't want to start moving the doors, I heard aligning the latches and getting the glass realigned & airtight is a bear.
Just hoping not to have to touch them. The doors (both sides) line up pretty well everyplace else. The hood and the front gill panels have a lot of adjustment, so I can get these gapped and flush with the door fronts. The rockers can't go in-out or up-down, they can slide front to back. But they line up with the bottom door edges ok (the gap). They do overlap the bottom of this quarter panel, so if I move the panel I'll have to keep checking the rocker fit. Possibly today, I'm going to pull the rear wheels and inner fender baffles to get at the fender flare screws (to remove the flares). I'll be better able to see how the quarter panel in bonded in, and how hard it's going to be to cut it loose. I believe its separate from the upper quarter panel. The top lines up pretty close so maybe I can free the bottom and pivot the panel out & fill under it, then bring it the rest of the way with a skim coat of filler. I'll take some better pictures of the area today ... also |
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Well, with a heat gun and a paint scraper, the panels came right off.
Probably the best approach is to use some glass matt and resin to build the flange out so the panel is flush to the door, and then bond the panel back in place. Both parts appear to be SMC, so I'll have to review the right stuff to buy. Also had good luck getting the flares off, an old guitar string cut right through the foam adhesive tape. Razor blade and lacquer thinner, and all I have are three small holes to fill, and some sanding. |
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What a mess.
Sand and gravel got between the body kit and the door, grinding through the paint all the way down each side. Lots of filling and sanding. Big Meats Forgot how big those rear tires are Built out the mounting flanges (with glass matt) until the passenger side quarter panel was flush with the door, and glued it in place with Fusor Adhesive. Looks a lot better, but a lot of fussy work. The drivers side (quarter panel) is a lot closer to flush with the door. Trying to decide if it's worth pulling off, or just live with it. And filled it the wheel flare mounting holes, counter sinking them from both sides and filled in with the Vette Panel Adhesive. Hopefully the countersinks will lock the plugs in place. Thinking I'll pull the rear bumper off and give it a good block sanding next. Than start priming all the lose pieces with the black epoxy, on a warm day. Coming along a little at a time |
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