Project Paint revival-2000 Honda Civic Repaint

Show off your work! Anything from final results to full start-to-finish project journals.

User avatar

Settled In
Posts: 93
Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2011 10:35 pm
Location: Kingston, Ontario
Country:
Canada
PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 10:18 am
deitymotorsports wrote:you won't be able to cut and buff the above mentioned steps in any type of metallic paint job. period.



you cant cut and buff a metallic paint job?

With BC/CC is the flake in the clear?
HellaFab.ca

User avatar

Fully Engaged
Posts: 107
Joined: Thu Dec 15, 2011 1:46 pm
Location: Birchwood,TN
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 10:47 am
With BC/CC it's in the base,or custom stuff would be in an intercoat. He's talking about SS metallics. However,I've buffed a car that was metallic SS with no problems,not to get rid of OP though,was just some light scratches from where someone dragged a bag or something across the trunk.
My programs never have bugs,they just develop new features!

User avatar

Settled In
Posts: 93
Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2011 10:35 pm
Location: Kingston, Ontario
Country:
Canada
PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 11:04 am
So i dont start 1000 threads about what product to use...

I have my aluminum engine valve cover and i want to fill some surface scratches so i can paint it and have it come out ultra glossy and flat.

Is there a process or product that you guys suggest i use to smooth it out? Its 100% my fault here because I used an old surface prep disc and really gouged some areas... prob 1/16" deep in one spot. :whoops:
HellaFab.ca



* Banned *
Posts: 876
Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2011 12:19 pm
Location: (account suspended)
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 11:50 am
no you can't cut and buff a metallic ss paint job like you can a bc/cc job. you can lightly buff or maybe.. key word hear is maybe use a cleaner style compound, to buff out a ss metallic paint job, problem is that with a ss metallic paint job, the metallics are mixed in with the entire paint job. so if you cut into them you move around the metallics and you will get tiger striping, mottling and all sorts of crazy hues in your paint job. with a bc/cc job all of the metallics are protected underneath the clear coat. so you can cut the clear. nice and flat and buff that out to a mirror shine, without disturbing the metallics. So theres no worry about the above mentioned problems. If your valve covers are buggered up, and you have paint left, scuff it up nice with 400 and then 600 to remove the scratch and repaint. you can try to buff it out, and see what happens. :allgood:
Life is Short, Live your life and Do what You want to Do!



* Banned *
Posts: 876
Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2011 12:19 pm
Location: (account suspended)
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 11:52 am
shlammed wrote:So i dont start 1000 threads about what product to use...

I have my aluminum engine valve cover and i want to fill some surface scratches so i can paint it and have it come out ultra glossy and flat.

Is there a process or product that you guys suggest i use to smooth it out? Its 100% my fault here because I used an old surface prep disc and really gouged some areas... prob 1/16" deep in one spot. :whoops:

sorry missread that post. i would have to see pics of the valve covers and the trouble spots.
Life is Short, Live your life and Do what You want to Do!



Fully Engaged
Posts: 103
Joined: Sun Dec 26, 2010 4:14 pm
Location: Fort Myers Beach, Florida, Cleveland, Ohio
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 6:19 pm
deitymotorsports wrote:I'm curious why you think base/clear is better for amateurs. I think the opposite is true. Any flaws/dirt in the base can't be sanded without recoating, and without a booth, there will be flaws. SS is also much cheaper, as you stated yourself. I put a few extra color coats on my SS and start with #800 wet and sand the #@%* out of it, moving to 1000,1200,1500, then 2000. The finish looks like glass, and you save tons of money by not buying clear.



what if you wanted to do a nice metallic paint job????? :rolleyes: How do you think that will look when you sand it all down with the above steps you have there???[/quote]
I was referring to non metallic colors; obviously you can't get crazy with a metallic single stage or you will ruin it. For black, red, yellow, any non metallic color, really I think ss is the way to go. And, this is not my idea. I had done a few bc/cc in my garage, and was always fighting dust nibs and junk . According to the directions PPG provides you are not supposed to sand base without re shooting. Obviously a nib would be ok, but my garage (at my last house) was impossible to get absolutely clean. I was at the Goodguys show in Columbus, Ohio a few years ago at the PPG tent. They had 2 spectacular Corvettes, one red and one black. I got to talking to the PPG rep about the paint jobs, and he said they were both ss. He said he thought non metallic color clearcoating was a waste of time, money and materials. I figured he knew what he was talking about, and my next black overall was PPG single stage. It is amazing how good it looks still 4 years later. It is my daily driver, and I get compliments all the time.
Life is short. Play hard.



* Banned *
Posts: 876
Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2011 12:19 pm
Location: (account suspended)
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 9:19 pm
wow a ppg rep said that? lol.. wonder if he still has a job?
Life is Short, Live your life and Do what You want to Do!

User avatar

Top Contributor
Posts: 3110
Joined: Wed Dec 01, 2010 10:52 pm

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 10:34 pm
mark 51 Pittsburgh wrote:
deitymotorsports wrote:I'm curious why you think base/clear is better for amateurs. I think the opposite is true. Any flaws/dirt in the base can't be sanded without recoating, and without a booth, there will be flaws. SS is also much cheaper, as you stated yourself. I put a few extra color coats on my SS and start with #800 wet and sand the #@%* out of it, moving to 1000,1200,1500, then 2000. The finish looks like glass, and you save tons of money by not buying clear.

According to the directions PPG provides you are not supposed to sand base without re shooting. Obviously a nib would be ok, but my garage (at my last house) was impossible to get absolutely clean.

Mark, Obviously you can denib metallic but you better reblend it. Buffing clear is much less messy than black or red single stage. Don't spray single stage metallics unless you are doing under fenders or trunk lids. Just my experience.
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.



Fully Engaged
Posts: 103
Joined: Sun Dec 26, 2010 4:14 pm
Location: Fort Myers Beach, Florida, Cleveland, Ohio
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 11:03 pm
timbo wrote:
mark 51 Pittsburgh wrote:
deitymotorsports wrote:I'm curious why you think base/clear is better for amateurs. I think the opposite is true. Any flaws/dirt in the base can't be sanded without recoating, and without a booth, there will be flaws. SS is also much cheaper, as you stated yourself. I put a few extra color coats on my SS and start with #800 wet and sand the #@%* out of it, moving to 1000,1200,1500, then 2000. The finish looks like glass, and you save tons of money by not buying clear.

According to the directions PPG provides you are not supposed to sand base without re shooting. Obviously a nib would be ok, but my garage (at my last house) was impossible to get absolutely clean.

Mark, Obviously you can denib metallic but you better reblend it. Buffing clear is much less messy than black or red single stage. Don't spray single stage metallics unless you are doing under fenders or trunk lids. Just my experience.

I agree 100%. But please remember that my comments were directed at the fact that this car is a non metallic red. I have shot metallic before, and of course I used a clear. And, to the comment about the PPG rep still having a job, the 2 cars there belonged to PPG, so I would think that their purpose was to show how good a ss non metallic paint job can look using their products. It obviously impressed me, and I would assume many others as well. In the spring I am doing another overall single stage black car (my Mustang conv) with PPG single stage.
Life is short. Play hard.



* Banned *
Posts: 876
Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2011 12:19 pm
Location: (account suspended)
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 11:31 pm
i have found it's hard to touch up bad spots on a single stage or blending them. Solid colors too.
Life is Short, Live your life and Do what You want to Do!
PreviousNext

Return to Completed & In Progress Member Projects

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 80 guests