Project Paint revival-2000 Honda Civic Repaint

Show off your work! Anything from final results to full start-to-finish project journals.



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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 1:36 am
Back in the day, you had no choice but to spray SS enamel, or SS lacquer colors, with a choice of spraying clear over the color, or just buffing.
Many non-factory lacquer jobs had 5-20 coats of clear on top of the color. Some guys hand rubbed each coat of clear, some every 2nd or 3rd. In the shop I worked in, every coat was hand rubbed, but any clear coating was an option most people didn't want to pay for.
I remember some show cars being sprayed with AE, then cleared with AE, so they could be color sanded and buffed without wrecking the metallics. But the majority of AE jobs were just buffed.
I also remember guys mixing color into the first clear coats to give more depth. They did this with solid and metallics. There were different methods depending on the painter, but hand rubbing didn't start until the after the first coat of pure clear when metallics were involved.
I was long gone before bc/cc became the norm, but met up with some of the guys later. Every one of them preferred bc/cc when it came to metallics, and these were really old school guys. For solids, they really didn't have a preference, but one guy said bc/cc was faster. He didn't elucidate, and I didn't ask why. I didn't know why it was faster until Rick pointed out the dry times.
I've done a lot of practicing with cheap AE metallics, and got to the point of spraying single panels without striping or mottling. I also practiced with bc/cc. Spraying bc/cc in metallics is a whole lot easier.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 1:21 pm
Long weekend!

Going to work on this little bugger and try to get the paint done!
Still have a TON to do as far as painting goes. whole car, more trim parts, mirrors, bumpers, filler panels, etc.

I am going to prime my hood and fenders with some high build to let me get better and faster coverage with the base...


In some down time waiting for the coats to flash or for it to setup to move peices around I hope to get my timing belt and water pump installed and possibly my clutch and release bearing too.

Should have some updates monday night. I should have my good camera to take better pics this time too.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 4:14 pm
do you guys mask doors like this?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3s4APWNq ... ure=fvwrel

@ 3:25.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 9:09 pm
!!!Update!!!

OK, so this weekend I was focusing on getting as much done as I can. The fuel costs in the truck I am driving now are killing me (14mpg highway, 10 city) and I want to get back in this car… It is more fun too.

Saturday
Being the long weekend I went to my shop on Saturday night after my fiancé went to work a night shift. Saturday night I was able to get into the shop, setup the heat and get a layer of primer down on the hood. I also was able to test my new stainless hardware for proper thread pitch, length and overall appeal.

How the engine bay looked (with a real camera)
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Closeup of the stainless hardware
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Degreasing the underside of the hood
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Sunday
Sunday I was able to push the car out of the booth for a minute to allow me to sweep out any loose debris that may have been tracked in on my feet. After the booth was all cleaned I was able to prep the bumpers, the licence plate trim and two quarter round trim pieces that go below the rear tail light. I tossed some boxed plastic wrap over the car in the booth and layed up some base coat. I did happen to get a run in one spot of base on both the front and rear bumpers so I called it a night as it was ~12am and I would have a seemingfully busy day for the long weekend Monday.

Swept and masked
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Base laid
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Monday
Monday I was able to drag myself out of bed to address sanding down of the run in the base coat and lay up a nice fresh coat on both the bumpers. This went smooth with 2 new coats of base. The clear was next up at around noon so the base would have enough time to dry that I don’t have any issues with application to a wet base coat. The clear went on like glass but I am still having some kind of debris issue and it is unknown if it is in the base or the clear at this moment. Next up was painting the base on the remainder of the car (doors, mirrors, roof, top of hood, truck lid and side skirts). The paint wasn’t covering very well at the start of this coat and midway through the first coat while painting the hood I noticed that I was getting a very uneven spray from my gun (later to be diagnosed) so I changed up the guns mid spray to my 1.5mm needle’d gun transferred the paint over and kept going. This is where it ends because when I bought the paint months ago I bought enough to have left overs for doing the outside of the car…. I didn’t account for doing the engine bay because I thought it wouldn’t be worth the effort.
Clear on the rear bumper
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Finished front bumper.
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Clear’d the bottom of the hood
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Licence plate finish panel
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Body ready for paint
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Here is to the next time out into the shop and hopefully completing the bulk of the paint job and getting the powerplant back in. Then I can play with some toys…
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 10:54 am
Question for you guys that do headlight restorations...

Can I use my Nason Multi Panel 2k clear to coat my headlights, or do i need something else? I have read uv 2k clear... which is what the multi panel clear is, right? The headlights will be the only thing left on the exterior of the car that will need some work once I am done.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 1:32 pm
shlammed wrote:Question for you guys that do headlight restorations...

Can I use my Nason Multi Panel 2k clear to coat my headlights, or do i need something else? I have read uv 2k clear... which is what the multi panel clear is, right? The headlights will be the only thing left on the exterior of the car that will need some work once I am done.

That clear is fine for lights. Just wetsand it really well with 1200-2000 until the yellow is gone. 2-3 coats.
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 2:30 pm
Cool, thanks!

There is also som red on my lights from what i assume was the previous owners attempt to spray some color back into the cracked oem bumper. that will be sanded off too.

I will hit it with a 2" disc on my die grinder and clear it on the side of the whole car when i get to that.

Cheers,
Matt
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 2:43 pm
I would just hand sand that.
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 4:26 pm
I have done it before with 600/800/1200 and used a hand polish but it looks like crap after a week. There isnt much yellow, but more of a surface that needs work maximum once a week.

I will get it well prepped and give it a few layers of clear.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 5:55 pm
timbo wrote:I would just hand sand that.

I mean wet sand and clear 2-3 coats. You might have misunderstood me...
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
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