Project Paint revival-2000 Honda Civic Repaint

Show off your work! Anything from final results to full start-to-finish project journals.



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 1:32 am
Where'd you buy the new fasteners from?

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 1:32 pm
Brafasco near my work.

They had 90 of both the bolts and washers in stock when i went. the lot was inexpensive too @ ~$30 with taxes.

I just need to get some of the nut type fasteners that expand in the hole to put in place of the grille push clips and the rear bumper push clips where there is no threads and just a large hole now.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2012 11:15 pm
shlammed wrote:UPDATE!

So, me being an over-confident **** sometimes has some backing to it. The paint on the engine bay, spoiler, grille, lip and side trim has turned out immaculate. But I will let the pictures speak for themselfs.





start of my weekend to end in chronological order.


My dad and I building a temporary paint booth within our garage.
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Masked up the engine bay.
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General shot of the car in the booth before we put the poly on the floor.
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From the outside.
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Ready for paint bro.
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After the first coat of base.
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Sprayed the clear on the engine bay and the miscellaneous body parts.
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So as you can see, it has turned out really well thus far. The shedule has me finishing a minor area of work on the welded in panel on the passenger side, finish sanding a few parts, prime the hood and paint the whole car at that time.


I did have one issue with the paint application that I need to address before i continue painting-moisture in the air line. I happened to get a few flecks of water in the clear that need to be fixed and then sand and buff the panels. Below is a pic of what happened...
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Base/Clear really is more friendly to amateurs. I will never do another single stage job again if i can avoid it.


Cheers,
Matt

I'm curious why you think base/clear is better for amateurs. I think the opposite is true. Any flaws/dirt in the base can't be sanded without recoating, and without a booth, there will be flaws. SS is also much cheaper, as you stated yourself. I put a few extra color coats on my SS and start with #800 wet and sand the #@%* out of it, moving to 1000,1200,1500, then 2000. The finish looks like glass, and you save tons of money by not buying clear.
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 08, 2012 2:30 pm
Looks good Matt.
Base can be wet sanded for trash and nibs in minutes. Then blended and on to clear in half an hour. Clear is much less messy to cut and buff than clear. I spray both SS and base/clear. I like base/clear best. IMO.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 1:16 am
I'm curious why you think base/clear is better for amateurs. I think the opposite is true. Any flaws/dirt in the base can't be sanded without recoating, and without a booth, there will be flaws. SS is also much cheaper, as you stated yourself. I put a few extra color coats on my SS and start with #800 wet and sand the #@%* out of it, moving to 1000,1200,1500, then 2000. The finish looks like glass, and you save tons of money by not buying clear.[/quote]


what if you wanted to do a nice metallic paint job????? :rolleyes: How do you think that will look when you sand it all down with the above steps you have there???
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 8:42 am
yer comin along good! hey, is that tin foil you used to wrap suff up in the engine bay?? that seems like a realy good idea!



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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 12:22 pm
tin foil is a very good old trick for masking off weird shapes etc that are not easily removed or want to be removed.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 1:53 pm
100% it is tin foil. Its the first time i have done it this way and it works sooo much nicer than tape and newspaper. plus its going to take much less time to remove as well.

BC/CC is much easier because the base color i just need to get down level with full coverage and i dont need to worry about making it level out so much. once i have that just layer the clear on and on....

i had a run in one of my early layers of clear from pivoting wrong so i let that coat tack up a little longer and kept going. the run isnt very noticable now but if i want to i can sand it out and then buff it without having to stop and wait for 5+ hours for it to dry like i would with SS.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 7:32 pm
you won't be able to cut and buff the above mentioned steps in any type of metallic paint job. period.
Life is Short, Live your life and Do what You want to Do!

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 8:14 pm
shlammin!!! :clap:
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
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