79 camaro z28 436sbc/4speed build.bright cobalt blue metalli

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2012 11:11 pm
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so heres the heart of my z28 its a 436 small block chevy,making 635hp,680 ft.lbs.of torque.took me 2 years to build this engine between locating a good block and saving for all the parts.took me 1 year just to find the right block capable of handling the horsepower i was gonna put to it,finally found it had all the cylinders sonic checked and all were over .250 thickness,most were over.300 thats some thick cylinder walls,then i ordered my eagle lightweight forged crank at 4.000 stroke and cylinders bored .40 over thats how i achieved 436 cu.in.found a set of krytonite rods for a good price them are 6.00 in rods.then i called crowler and ordered a custom cam on small base circle to clear the rods its at 245 duration and .630 lift this is a solid roller cam,also got my solid roller lifters at this time ,now came the heads wich are RHS racing heads proline elites,full cnc ported at 228cc.then i ordered matching comp cams springs good to .700 lift and scorpion roller rockers.team g intake and holley 750hp carb.then it was off to my buddys to put it on the dyno,made 635hp at 5300 rpms and 680 ft.lbs of torque at 4200 rpms.



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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 12:25 am
just a quick question whats the coolest temp i can spray primer in,and what about polar excellarator is that good to use,or not such a good idea.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 10:13 am
Nice motor :goodjob:

Was this site having issues over the last few days? Anytime I tried to post it said I had to log in even though I was logged in?

Never heard of polar excellerator? Not 100% sure about the temp, around 60F maybe a bit less but better safe than sorry so err on the higher side. I keep the shop heated to 64F or so normally and higher when I spray since I then turn the heater off and run the fan with the door open, once the overspray clears I turn the heater back on.
Rob



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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 9:21 pm
thx rjuhasz i appreciate it took alot of time and hard work to build that engine,thats what im thinking of getting too is a space heater,my area is only 10x23 shouldnt take long to heat that,get it to temp then shut it off while i paint then turn it back on again.thats a great idea.



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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 9:43 pm
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yeah i have been having trouble posting too,double posts everything then i have to go back and delete one of them.heres a few pictures of my new bumper cover its in much better shape than the one on it now,i really didnt like the idea of having to sand entire cover down to the plastic,the paint was cracked everywhere so there was no choice but to take entire cover to bare plastic,then i gotta worry about proper adhesion of the primer to bare plastic,was worried about that so know all i need to do is scuff this one then prime it,it has zero scars,didnt even see any scratches the other one had deep scratches that would require filler



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 8:07 pm
polar accellerator is made by spi and can be used with any 2k primer or clearcoat says u can paint down to 12 degrees,and it will still properly cure.but it isnt cheap,its made for cold paint shops for the winter.i think im gonna get me some im getting impatient for 70 degree days to come here in michigan that could be july.what u guys think should i give it a try or not.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 9:15 pm
bad436z28 wrote:polar accellerator is made by spi and can be used with any 2k primer or clearcoat says u can paint down to 12 degrees,and it will still properly cure.but it isnt cheap,its made for cold paint shops for the winter.i think im gonna get me some im getting impatient for 70 degree days to come here in michigan that could be july.what u guys think should i give it a try or not.

Call James at SPI for the temp and ounces per sprayable quart. Let me know how it goes please.....nice motor...close to my 413 mouse.
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 10:49 pm
yeah timbo i sure will let everyone know if it works on the tech sheet it says 2 to 4 ounces of polar accelerator to each sprayable quart.bet that 413 is gonna perform well,would like to see it when ur done.



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 10:36 pm
im having a hard time deciding what i wanna do with my engine bay,if i paint it body color then i gotta be careful and worry about every little scratch its gonna be a night mare to keep clean with that blue,im leaning toward keeping it black like it originally came from the factory,but if i go that route i wanna do it all in flat black in the engine bay even the subframe will get painted flat black,what im thinking of doing is painting it all black epoxy primer that stuff has great adhesion and cures hard like a rock,wich would work great for my engine bay and easy to clean,should give me the protection i need.tell me what u guys think.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 10:24 am
Depends on what you want, GM and Ford are flat black and look boring and dull to me, Mopars are body color and look infinitely nicer to my eye. Way more work to do though, you could just clean, scuff and shoot flat or satin black in there and call it a day. Or you could spend a ton of time, effort and money and make it look purdy like it should have come in the first place, in my humble opinion. There's no doubt that the flat black option is the most practical but if you do go that route I would still paint over the epoxy with a single stage paint.

I'm painting my 65 Stang engine bay body color, it isn't going to be a daily driver so I'm not overly concerned with the upkeep of keeping it clean in there. I didn't think yours was going to be a daily either with 600+ hp
Rob
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