72Plymouth Scamp 440 complete resto

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2012 9:29 am
Doright wrote:That was cheap! Hope you gave him a kiss!


I'll say that was real cheap. Around here they want $1250 just to rebuild one with no modifications and you have to pull it and bring it to them.
1968 Coronet R/T - a work in progress.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2012 11:36 am
Even 1250 would be a deal with axles
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2012 5:54 pm
Keep in mind that was labor only. I got about $900 in the rear in total including the brakes. I wanted a solid rear that I didnt have to worry about breaking. And really i built that Dana60 cheaper then i probably could have found a suregrip 8 3/4.



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PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2012 6:15 pm
Some progress. Im blocking out the quarters and pillars. Both sides have had quarter work done. Driver side was a full skin and pass was a partial. I had a body line issue on the passanger side. So im tryin to work the line back in and just kind of make it more crisp. Im new at this body work and my way may not be your way but always open to suggestions and feedback.
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block2.jpg
Side with body line issue.
block.jpg



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PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2012 6:24 pm
Also looking for some repair ideas. I shipped these fiberglass fenders from florida and in transit one was broken. Im pretty craft and I know I can fix them. Also any tips on removeing the stripes they are a stick on kind.
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package7.jpg
This spot is cracked pretty good! Im thinking brace it from the back and some short strand Duraglas filler?
package3.jpg
package8.jpg

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2012 11:12 pm
I use a long flexible straight edge and a pencil to mark the body lines.
Place a piece of masking tape below the line and apply filler above the line using the masking tape to provide a built up edge.
Block sand until clean and smooth then remove the tape and apply some to the other side on top of the area you just filled. This will keep you from sanding off what you just put on. Apply filler to opposite said and block sand to reach the masking tape, then remove tape and apply guide coat. Work one side of the body line at a time with the guide coat giving you a reference.
1968 Coronet R/T - a work in progress.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 5:24 am
Yes thats how I have been doing it. Letting the filler set up just enough to hold then pulling the tape. Then I marked out a line down the center with a sharpie then used a n air board to file up to the line creating the body line then blocking it out by hand. Any thoughts on the fiberglass fix?

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 8:11 am
72ScampTramp wrote: . . . Any thoughts on the fiberglass fix?


This has been covered in the Fiberglass and Plastic Section more than once. Try a search there if you do not find what you are looking for in the first couple of pages of posts.
1968 Coronet R/T - a work in progress.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 3:10 am
Well my fix may not be pretty but I did follow the directions and what came out was a nice solid fix IMO. Enjoy the photos.
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photobucket-6783-1341895291233.jpg
photobucket-6264-1341895268823.jpg
photobucket-1059-1341895237485.jpg
photobucket-799-1341895312697.jpg



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 10:44 am
Is that just Body filler over the Break/crack?

This repair will be stronger or just as strong as the original panel was.

The Crack broken glass should be all ground down to a 45 degree angle all broken glass removed, This creates a big gap between peices Then on opposit side of 45 degree angle sand peices smooth and lay one layer of fiberglass cloth big enough to cover all the breaks/gap 2-3 inches soak it with resin and let it lay up then sand it down smooth and lay another peice over the top of the first at 45 degree angle from the first and soak with resin let it lay up, Then take Fiberglass MATT and pull it all apart so its not mat any more but a Bowl filled with loose fiberglass fibers then with fiberglass resin and fibers get a small brush and fill the gap on the opposit side of panel the side wich has the 45 degree angle on it and the gap, fill gap with Fiberglass fibers and resin fill Gap let it set up and sand down repeat as nessary till you have filled gap with Fiberglass fibers not just the resin let it lay up sand to finish paint to match. You want to use as much fibers as you can in the repair and only use the resin to wet Fibers so they are wet and translucent. This would be most correct way to repair broken fiberglass panels.

(actually the most correct way would be to cut cloth in small tiny peices in same shape of gap or hole and layer them over and over with peices of cloth getting bigger and bigger progresivly till gap is filled but you only see that sort of repair on Aircraft and some boats.)

Each time you let the fiber glass lay up you have to sand area you want to add more resin and glass too!
When the fiberglass resin kicks it has wax in it that forms a layer over the top of it to keep air from the resin for proper cure. So you cant just put fiberglass resin over the top of NON sanded areas it wont stick its very important that each layer be sanded thoughly and completly avoid strong chemicals such as Acetone on fiberglass panels you want to keep they can soften the resins.

Another thing about Fiberglass Resin when it kicks it gets HOT! Hot enough to start a fire so watch what you do with the resin cups make sure they have fully cooled before putting them in the trash.

Have fun
Oh good trick when playing with Fiberglass Rub arms down with Baby powder first! :wink:
To remove glass from skin get a old pair of Wifes Nylons rub skin with it :wazzup:
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