Finished the cowl panel today. Tonight I'm putting the finishing touches on the rear 1/4. Tomorrow is final prime and Wednesday is wetsand and spray color.
Project Kraken. 91 mustang
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Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2012 9:03 am Country: USA |
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Settled In
Posts: 60
Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2012 9:03 am Country: USA |
Well **** me runnin through a sticker patch barefoot...
After blocking the door it uncovered a tiny eyebrow that I figured I could just spot sand to bare metal and glaze it over. So I started sanding and this appeared. The more I welded and ground the more I found. Who ever drilled the holes to pull the dent ought to be dick slapped. They drilled but never pulled the damage out. So I'll take the door to bare metal and work the damage... |
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Laid color and clear on the body today. Not bad for a first time paint job. I'll let her cure then wet sand and buff after rehanging all the painted pieces.
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Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2012 8:30 pm Country: USA |
Looks pretty good man. You've definitely done alot of work! Cant wait to see it put back together.
Are you running flux core wire? Thats really tough on fairly thing sheet metal. Not to sound like a hack, but dont be afraid to use a little bondo. Sounds like you're warping alot of your panels with your welding and pulling. Sometimes getting it pulled out far enough, can cause alot of problems with stretching etc. Looks like you know what you're doing though. Lookin good!!!! |
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Yup, it is flux core .035" wire. I've been welding since I was a young kid. Don't get me wrong, I'm no pro, and no certifications. But I feel most comfortable with a tig. Unfortuneately it(along with my spool gun) got stolen about 9 months ago. So I'm stuck with the flux core for the time being. It's not to bad on thin materials. I've only had 2 burn throughs out of maybe 20lbs of wire that's been through it. IMO a mig or arc welder is where a beginner should start. You have to have a pretty good grasp on welding to do anything worth a **** with a flux core(especially on thin materials) anyways, the only bad warpage I had was on the rear 1/4 which wasnt even that bad really. Whoever did the previous repair pretty much ruined the sheetmetal so I could only do so much. It ended up with maybe 1/4 the amount of filler it previously had. Im content with the repair for now. The cowl panel was stretched to begin with. When that happened it appears someone tried to pry the damage out with a screw driver. As far as the door goes, zero warpage. And the trunk lid had serious waves from the beginning. The instant I put the first tack she popped. I knew it would happen cuz i could see a crease in the sheetmetal going straight through one of the holes to be welded. From that point I no longer cared on the trunk lid. |
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Laid some color and clear today. 3 coats base and 5 clear.
Had a few runs and a honey bee decided to walk across one of the pieces. Nothing that won't wet sand and buff out. |
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Been quite a while since my last update. Moved into a new house with a larger garage finally! Rebuilt the rear, added gears, forged axles, extended studs, painted wheel wells, welded and braced torque boxes, solid control adjustable arms, wheels, tires, new windshield, etc. ill let the pics do the talking...
New shoes... Cut and buffed the roof. 600-3000 grit then 3m perfect it system for the buff. Pass fender Trunk lid Pass door Home built aluminum door panels Gauge panel I built for a customers 82 mustang Hood in color The rear suspension I just bought. Should be here Thursday. |
Just wondering. Is it possible to weld holes shut and just weld on the cars body in general with a harbor freight mig welder with .035? I mean the welder only has a switch for voltage level, which I believe is max or min, then wire feed from 0 - 5 I believe. If so what wire speed should I be using and do I tack, or can I just continuously weld the hole shut? Thanks for the reply. |
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Take it from someone who's been there brother. Don't do it. You'll blow through no matter what setting you attempt with the harbor freight wire welder. I made due but I was patching more blown holes then what I had to repair to begin with. Use .020" wire on the lowest voltage if you HAVE to use that welder. Quick tack, let it cool, repeat. I've since upgraded from my cheapo sorry excuse for a welder to a lincoln power mig 180C. Best money I've ever spent. |
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Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2012 9:03 am Country: USA |
So now that I've finally received my 1/2" torque wrench I was able to get the rear together! **** fleabay seller tried to rip me off.
Got the new Timken races installed making sure they are seated completely. Checking the bearing preload. Used a solid spacer instead of a crush sleeve. Got 18-19 in lbs. ARP studs in and pinion mounted permanent. Got .011" on the ring gear backlash so it's almost dead nuts in the center of the specs. Then New suspension is in. Track bar locator, solid adjustable lowers, and relocated solid adjustable uppers. Had to extend the lower control arms out 1" past factory for the 275-60's to fit. |
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