Project 1980 Camaro Z28

Show off your work! Anything from final results to full start-to-finish project journals.



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2016 1:24 pm
Hi hurst1979olds
You got your work cut out for you there.
I am gonna go out on a Limb here and say just doing the one side is like putting a Band-aid on a severed Artery.

I am doing a very similar job on a 70 Firebird right now. The cars and the work are the same for all arguments, after looking at your pictures I suggest you look at my pictures to give you some idea of what your up against.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=21429
Sorry it hasnt been updated in a while and many of the pictures links are broken now but still there is a lot of good pictures there. I can tell you right now your not going to be able to save that Trunk pan besides that its heavily rusted.

If I were to do your car I wouldn't even mess around and would purchase the whole trunk floor WITH Frame rails already attached from Classic industry's, Its an expensive piece at around $1500 BUT it will save you a lot of Hassell of locating correct positions for parts and Take a lot of Guess work out it also includes rear transition to seat floor pans.
http://www.classicindustries.com/produc ... 14943.html
Your trunk pan is gone with surface rust as are other components something to think about.
Trust me when I say you cant weld to dirty or Rusty steel every thing has to be clean clean clean for good welds and you got a lot of welding to do.
A full complete pan with rails will save you a Lot of headache & over head welding not saying your still not gonna have plenty more to do but its gonna save you a bunch plus it will look more Pro when done and how the job looks when done is 90% of the job.

I hope you are a Good welder and have a good machine, A good Mig and a Good Gas set up as well your gonna need both and the Skills to operate them.

If you have any rotten floor panels it may be advantages to contact Classic and ask if its possible to purchase a complete floor and trunk assembly like this one for a 68 for the money $2500 a guy cant go wrong for all the parts and welding already done.
http://www.classicindustries.com/produc ... c9005.html
They don't list one for 75-80 in the online catalog but you never know what they can do for special order? i have purchased parts before that weren't in the catalog.

If you haven't already purchased a Pressure blaster I would, The one Harbor freight sells is Junk don't bother with it look for a better machine but after you have one as far as media goes look into "Glass blast" media the Fine is a little course for my liking but it works good and doesn't have any Silica in it.
They have Many distributors of it You'd have to contact them for your nearest distributor.
https://www.glassblast.com/ Price is very competitive with the many others out there.
DO NOT USE CHEAP PLAY SAND! it has Silica in it BAD STUFF!

If you have any questions just ask
A lot of Pros here that do this kind of work every day like Jason M, Scott B, Mike 95Dodge,
they are a wealth of knowledge and experience. I my self am just a hobbyist that likes to restore cars.

My advice Get really good at welding similar material metal before attempting to weld on the car I also would invest in a Car lift you'd be surprised how handy having one is There is so much work on this car that needs to be done on top and Bottom it will save your sanity and your Back! and Possibly the car from you burning it to the ground before you finish it.
Welding over head is no fun I am so glad I have my lift and even then I get Burned all the time I don't know If I could do this work if I had to lay under the car and try to weld over head laying in all the shower of Molten weld slag showering down Uh just thinking about it ah NOPE! Not gonna do it! no way hose!

Also Invest in several Hundred CLECOS or you could use sheet metal screws but beware the parts will go together and come apart several times before final welding is done that's why I like Clecos http://www.lowbucktools.com/clecos.html this is not where I got mine from just using it as a reference. They are great for holding parts together and being able to take them apart quickly if needed, Sheet metal screws will work just fine it's just not as easy to take parts back apart if you have too is all.

Spot weld cutter
There are a Bunch of different ones on the Market I cant say I like any of the ones I have tried so far Blair makes some that a lot of guys like.
http://www.blairequipment.com/Spotweld_ ... tters.html
The best advice I can give is stick with the Carbide cutters & use a Good cutting Lubricant such as Boelube and keep cutting speeds as slow as you can go slow with light pressure let the cutter do the work.

My Advise as to were to start?
Start by Drilling off the tail Panel and Lower Valance panel You'll need them off and out of your way to get the new trunk pan in in one Piece plus it wont fit through Trunk hole even if you did cut it in half that's how some guys do Trunk pans, Hack work in my opinion.
Your life will get easier when you realize you cant save the Trunk pan and that the Tail panel & lower Valance has to come off to do the job, I am able to save my Tail panel and Lower Valance but I would like to replace both of them you have to decide your self what your gonna replace and what your gonna try to save.

Original VS Aftermarket panels
Original parts do fit better every time but they do still require some persuasion. The after market parts are hit and miss on a good fit off the bat BUT I do like them myself even though they some time require a lot of persuasion but I have self taught myself panel beating and shaping too.

In the end I have found the Dang things wont do the work by themselves so you have to get out there and do it! Get busy drilling Cutting and Welding Make some NOISE! and i will see ya in the Welding forum here on this web sight.
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2016 7:51 pm
The driver side is solid. I can look inside the frame rail in spots and there is no rust scale. The car sat before I bought it with trees and high grass on the passenger side. Which is why I think that side is worse. I may buy a new trunk pan.
1979 Cutlass Hurst/Olds
1979 Ford F-150 4x4 Short Bed
1980 Camaro Z-28 Project Car for Wife

"Life is too short to drink cheap beer"



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 11:27 am
Luckily I do already have a new inner and outter rail panel. I think that's going to be my project for today is get that off. I've been having a lot of beers in the garage working I other smaller projects I got going or just staring at the car. Figuing out my best route to go. But for $300 shipped to my door a new trunk pan is sounding pretty good since it will be easier in the long run. I also noticed last night the passenger side has tank. Bracket is toast, but the driver side it solid it's weird how 1 side of the car is far worse then the other.
1979 Cutlass Hurst/Olds
1979 Ford F-150 4x4 Short Bed
1980 Camaro Z-28 Project Car for Wife

"Life is too short to drink cheap beer"



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Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm
Location: Pahrump NV.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 11:51 am
Its actually not unusual for rust damage to show worse on the right side were salt has been used on the roads. Roads are arched in the center lanes so water runs off to the right of the center of the Road so the right side of the car is always in the salt water that's my theory any way. Plus I grew up in a state were they Salted the roads that's how I always seen it.

That trunk Pan is gone like it or not your not going to be able to save it its just to far gone with rust. underneath and from the Top.
Image


Image

Not to mention the Scab patch some one has already put on it.

Make your car look like this first
Image

Skin the Frame rails leaving them in the car first it will make it easier to locate the new one by removing it in one whole piece with the trunk pan removed.

This is Hardest Part of removing the Trunk Pan skin
Image


How to do it the easy way
Image


Remove the tail panel first
Image
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



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Posts: 6217
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm
Location: Pahrump NV.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 2:13 pm
Image


Image


Image


I was able to Glass Blast my Frame rails clean inside and out and save both even though some one had welded on Exhaust hangars to the frame rails on the lower side which failed I am going to be able to patch that as inside of frame wasn't bad at all and out side looked good but my Pan was Gone as were trunk drop offs and wheel wells and lower Quarter panels.
I blasted my Frame rails clean out side and inside then Acid etched with Phosphoric acid washed them clean then Painted the inside with a Hi Zinc content Paint, Epoxy would have been better.

Image


New Pan in ready for Clecos and welding Fit of replacement pan is pretty good with a little persuasion.

Image


I have My Pan in and 90% welded up now, I have to get some pictures of it I will post them in next couple of days.
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 9:25 pm
Well, I took your advice. I got the inner and outer tail panels out. I also did a rough cut and got a big hole for the floor panel. So now I get get in there and work. Your cars looks like its coming along great. You do good work.
1979 Cutlass Hurst/Olds
1979 Ford F-150 4x4 Short Bed
1980 Camaro Z-28 Project Car for Wife

"Life is too short to drink cheap beer"

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 9:40 pm
You won't go wrong following his advice. :goodjob:
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 1:44 pm
hurst1979olds wrote:Well, I took your advice. I got the inner and outer tail panels out. I also did a rough cut and got a big hole for the floor panel. So now I get get in there and work. Your cars looks like its coming along great. You do good work.


Like I said the Shock Towers are the Hardest Part, You also need to drill apart the lower section of the Rear seat back were it meats the seat pan and make a few cuts along the package tray so you can fold it up slightly and tie it up out of your way with wire so you can get to the very front of the Trunk pan and the Shock towers from inside the car the cuts will latter be welded together. Make small thin cuts as wide as a Hack saw blade, The less material you remove the easier welding will be.

Did you run into Factory Brazed sections in the Tail panel? I did in 4 places, All traces of Brazing material must be removed prior to welding Or you can re-braze it with Silicon Bronze which is what I am going to do.
I couldn't Salvage my Inner Rear Tail panel But I am going to be able to save the outer Rear Tail panel with a lot of repair work How did yours turn out? are you going to try to save it and reuse it? I would love to buy a new one for mine but I have to save money on my Project where ever I can as I still have the Cowel panel to replace.


Please Include pictures of your Progress / work love to see it.
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



Top Contributor
Posts: 6217
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm
Location: Pahrump NV.
Country:
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2016 3:27 pm
hurst1979olds wrote:Well, I took your advice. I got the inner and outer tail panels out. I also did a rough cut and got a big hole for the floor panel. So now I get get in there and work. Your cars looks like its coming along great. You do good work.


Thanks Hows your coming along you got any updated pictures for us????
We love progress pictures you know?

For some its just Paint Porn for me I love the Heavy Hard core Rust repair Porn ! :knockout:
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2016 7:52 pm
Yes. I got an update. I have yet to figure out how to post pics from my phone. But I got tail out, trunk pan out, passenger frame rail out, started getting new rail ready. I have to rebuild the torque box a bit. But your porn pics will be coming soon
1979 Cutlass Hurst/Olds
1979 Ford F-150 4x4 Short Bed
1980 Camaro Z-28 Project Car for Wife

"Life is too short to drink cheap beer"
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