No I haven't got to that point yet. I've heard from several people that complain about leaking issues yet a lot of people use them too.

Cut and make an access door & hole threw floor above the reservoir under the carpet for servicing brakes.

That's how they did it in old Mercury's, fords, and Studebaker's ? just an idea.

If it's not directly under my seat that's probably the route I'll take. If not I'll use a squeeze bottle with flexible tip and a piece of polished stainless on underside of cab to act as mirror. Unless there's a problem, one shouldn't have to access often anyway.

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Thanks Greg.
To be honest I haven't thought that far ahead. Now that you mention it the obvious answer would be yes. Do your or Bam have a good source?

Like with anything you can go simple as in a plastic one, or you can go tricked out. CPP sales a plastic remote reservoir kit for 75 bucks. You can also swipe one from mercury villager at the junk yard and adapted it to your system.
cpp remote reservoir kit


Mercury Villager remote reservoir

Great. Thanks for the info.

No problem buddy that's what its all about sharing information.

It took me some time to research the air management systems out there but finally decided to go with Accu-Air.
The kit I purchased is this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251447894471?ss ... 1423.l2649

I upgraded to the Accu-Air Switch Speed controller rather than the AVS-7 because it can be flush mounted into a console, also ordered a couple of mufflers. With AZ tax and shipping the package came to $1600.

Went with the 5 gallon tank because it will hold enough air to lift the truck completely. This means no waiting for the compressors if you make a quick stop for gas or something. The dual compressors will recharge the tank in about 52 seconds which mean less run time and heat.
The DOT lines are supposed to seal better than standard fittings and be leak free (we'll see about that). And the entire system can be easily upgraded to a self-leveling set up that maintains a consistent ride height regardless of vehicle load sometime in the future.

Now to figure the best way to get everything installed.

I mounted the cab and aligned the bed so I could decide where to mount the air suspension components.
Space is limited so I will need to plumb the compressors to the tank (under the cab passenger side). Put compressors under the bed:



The air bag fittings were the wrong size so I sent them back to exchange. While waiting I thought I would repair the broken tailgate hinge. This turned into a major undertaking since the previous "customizers" made the tailgate and welded these barrel hinges on in such a way that the tailgate could not be removed. The left hinge was frozen so the metal gave way and rust settled in.



This actually turn out to be a good thing since the customer had bought a roll pan and they never installed or even painted it.
Had to do some cutting to get this to fit.



Final fitting will have to wait until I get the tailgate hinges and latches installed properly. My guess is I'll have to adjust the alignment to flush with the tail gate thickness. Maybe even redesign the lower edge of the tailgate which is square at this point.

The roll pan will need some additional welding on the seams around the license plate recess to suit me. Only has about 12 spot welds on the whole thing.

That owner is lucky the truck is in your hands now.

Thought I was going to get to spray some paint today. Bought some mixed to match Wanda base coat (been wanting to try it for some time now) that I planned to use on this fender repair.


I stripped the paint and welded the seam, then coated in epoxy front and back and let set for a day.
Did the filler work, primed, guide coat and block sanded:



Then the owner showed up and I wet sanded the fender with 400 while we were talking. I was pointing out some areas I had concerns about from the previous body/paint guy's work when I spotted a small crack in the paint at the opposite end I was working on.
I explained why I needed to investigate further and started sanding through a 1/4" of filler to get the metal. What I found was a poorly done patch that was rusting. I cut it open and found this:


Notice the small indentation to the left of where I cut? That turned out to be another welded area:


The picture doesn't show the glob of welded material that's on that small patch.

I started media blasting the rust but still need to do some more work, then epoxy, then fabricate a new patch.


The owner realized that I will need to check every panel now but said he wants it done right.
I have some other stuff I can paint (hopefully) to see how well the guy matched the color for me.