'95 F150 Rear Wheel Rust Repair / Paint

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 9:21 pm
Since last post I put on two coats of high build let dry then test fit the wheel well trim to check character line by wheel well. It looked good.

Blocked with 150 long board again. After watching blocking videos and doing some more reading I decided to fill the few low spots left. I had a faint wave by the forward gas door that just never seemed to go away; it was there before I even started the project. There were also two low spots around rear gas door. Also did a few skims of filler on the forward side of passenger's panel and one low spot on top rail. Filler very very thin. Knocked filler down with 80 grit and carefully feathered with 150 grit lite pressure on the board. After filler I knocked all the high build down thin with 150 grit long board all surfaces; very lite pressure on board but a lot of strokes in x pattern; one 1/8" round burn through to metal and hit epoxy in a couple other areas.

Sprayed filler areas with Epoxy (let dry an hour) then two coats of High Build on all panels. Put a third very wet coat of high build on filled areas to make them shine. I'll let it all settle for a couple days and go over it lightly with 150 grit long board again.
Attachments
PassSideFillerHighBuild2.JPG
This forward area of the panel had a giant dent and two creases high and low and was also bent around the forward area of the wheel well. A lot of work to get this panel straight. (dry spot forward of wheel well is where paint gun ran out its not a defect in the panel)
DriveSideForwardGasDoorFillerHighBuild.JPG
A wave existed by the forward gas door. I thought high build would make it go away but it just never seemed to disappear. Thin skim of filler finally got rid of it.
DriveSideRearGasDoorFillerHighBuild.JPG
Rear gas door had couple small low spots. Reflection looks nice and even now.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 5:10 pm
Blocked the areas that had filler work done with 150 grit long board. Then went over all surfaces with 220 grit long board. I burned through high build to epoxy in a few places around filler work but no burn through to metal....
Attachments
DriveSideBlocked220.JPG
PassSideBlocked220.JPG

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 8:15 pm
I put two coats of high build where filler work was and one coat on the other areas of the panels. The pictures don't capture how shiny it is and how straight it look. I am really liking what I am seeing. I'll let it dry a couple days then block it with 320...
Attachments
PassSideHighBuildAfter220_2.JPG
DriveSideHighBuildAfter220_2.JPG
PassSideHighBuildAfter220_1.JPG
DriveSideHighBuildAfter220_1.JPG

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2014 8:49 am
Lightning took out my internet for 6 days but its fixed now....

Driver side blocked with 320, primed, and blocked with 320 again. The second 320 blocking no burn throughs to epoxy. Another lite coat of high build on there (not shown) until its ready for color at which time I will block it down with 320 then 400.

Pass side upper character line not straight. Made a styrofoam sanding block modeled on the cab character line and used that to get it straight. No filler needed. Blocked with 320 then lite coat of high build. I will probably come back and work that line a couple rounds of prime/block; dont really need to but its not as nice as drive side line. Rest of panel is done.

Next step: put bed on its end and get back side of panels prepped and sealed with two coats of epoxy. Once that is done address surface rust on inside of bed. After that block sides down with 400 and then they are ready for color.

Also need to catch the tail gate up but that is dent and rust free (an original "take off" bought years ago) so not a big effort.....
Attachments
PassSideCharacterLineStraight.jpg
Character line straightened with styrofoam sanding block.
DriveSideBlocked320.jpg
Two rounds of blocking with 320. Body work done on this side.



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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2014 5:03 pm
Good job, I hate painting white grrrr. I can't see the shadow.... Everything should be OEM Black, Black shows good body work and easy to spray LOL.... Nice work bud.
When someone says it can't be done....? They are usually interrupted by someone who is already doing it.!

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 5:59 am
Thanks. I will have to get some more light in there before color.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 6:03 am
Two of my kids, 15 and 19, helped me get the bed standed up on its end. I will get more people to get it back down.

Need to get back sides of panels prepped and sealed with two coats of epoxy primer. I will use a stripping wheel on the panels. I plan to wire wheel all the crusty sections on the bottom of bed/braces and scuff the entire under side and go with two coats of epoxy primer. Its real solid under there no repairs needed.

Tie down straps used to secure the bed from tipping.
Attachments
BedTieDown2.JPG
BedTieDown1.JPG
BedUpRight.JPG
Last edited by 69cuda340s on Fri Jun 27, 2014 6:14 am, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 6:11 am
Here is the pass side brace to stiffen the quarter panel. Since no inner wheel well is going back a little stiffening was needed. Drive side is plenty rigid with the dual tank pockets so nothing needed over there. Brace is 16 gauge galvanized exhaust pipe cut length wise opened up and flattened and cut into single layer of metal. Glued in place with 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive.

Original plastic splash shields will be reinstalled and "bridged" with additional plastic to keep debris out. No metal will exist to trap moisture against the panels. The original inner steel wheel wells were cut back with a saws all when I cut the rust out. I will leave whats left of the wheel wells in there to screw the plastic to.
Attachments
PassSidePanelBrace.JPG
DriveSideInnerFender.JPG
PassSideInnerFender.JPG

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2014 10:39 pm
Wiped down with Wax and Grease remover ready to spray epoxy. All around both wheel wells I took it back down to metal and roughed it up with 80 grit.
Attachments
BottomWipesDownReadyForPaint.JPG
Last edited by 69cuda340s on Fri Jul 04, 2014 10:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2014 10:41 pm
One coat of epoxy primer. I used a brush to get the paint up in the wheel well lip then sprayed the rest. Will put another coat on tomorrow:
Attachments
BottomFirstCoatEpoxy.JPG
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