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PostPosted: Sat Dec 27, 2014 8:48 am
Yesterday I began prepping the aftermarket front bumper cover. It fits fine, but with new aftermarket headlights, I may have to do some contouring on the plastic around the inside corners of the headlights. It was only $89 and free shipping, so it was a good buy.

The grill area had a lot of plastic flashing that I had to scrape/trim/sand off. On some surfaces I know I scraped off the primer and exposed raw plastic. If I spray adhesion promoter on the raw plastic, there will be some overspray on the primer. Same thing on a couple of other small scrapes. Is this going to hurt anything when I spray more primer on? In other words, will the plastic/factory primer/adhesion promoter/primer surfacer layering be sound?

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 27, 2014 9:21 pm
Bump.

Anyone?
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 27, 2014 11:16 pm
Check the tech sheet for the adhesion promoter you are using; most I've ever used are fine on both raw plastic and/or prior painted or primed surfaces. I'd be surprised to find one that was not ok for that.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2014 8:29 am
chris wrote:Check the tech sheet for the adhesion promoter you are using; most I've ever used are fine on both raw plastic and/or prior painted or primed surfaces. I'd be surprised to find one that was not ok for that.


It's Bulldog adhesion promoter. I'll check. Thanks.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 8:04 pm
Chris,
This bumper cover is already primed. I'm shooting 4th Dimensions base coat and Tamco 2100 clear coat. I've already dry-fit the cover and it fits fine. Do I need any flex agent, or can I forego it? Shouldn't take much mucking around to get it installed.
Thanks,
Nate
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 9:13 pm
Nate you will be fine. If we were in a shop force drying parts with infrared heaters, and the tech sheet suggested it then we'd be talking about flex additives. In your example as well as almost every other project we discuss at this site the flex agent is not needed and just another potential item to cause (chemical) problems.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 8:53 am
chris wrote:Nate you will be fine. If we were in a shop force drying parts with infrared heaters, and the tech sheet suggested it then we'd be talking about flex additives. In your example as well as almost every other project we discuss at this site the flex agent is not needed and just another potential item to cause (chemical) problems.


I notice that on older cars, sometimes the bumper covers are faded more than the paint on metal. Always wondered if it was caused by flex agent or something.

Glad I don't have to mess with that. Thanks.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 2:51 pm
After priming and pseudo-block sanding the front and rear bumper covers, I started spraying the Cashmere beige metallic base coat. It looks more like gold paint in liquid form, and it's not going on as easily as the spruce green mica paint that used on my truck. I know you're supposed to mist on some paint to make sure all the metallic looks even.

Todays' a beautiful day. Should I take them out into direct sunlight to do the misting? Do I dial back on the fluid any? Kind of winging it here. :)
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 3:26 pm
Lot's of guys don't like using a mist coat or drop coat; I understand the concerns about adhesion or color mis-match but I would be lying if I said I never shot one to deal with exactly what you are talking about.

Before you change the gun adjustments try pulling back from the panel another 2" to 3" and see if it makes a difference. This is one of the reasons it's good to have practice panels lying around. Also, increase your overlap a bit.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 3:42 pm
chris wrote:Lot's of guys don't like using a mist coat or drop coat; I understand the concerns about adhesion or color mis-match but I would be lying if I said I never shot one to deal with exactly what you are talking about.

Before you change the gun adjustments try pulling back from the panel another 2" to 3" and see if it makes a difference. This is one of the reasons it's good to have practice panels lying around. Also, increase your overlap a bit.


Johnny on the spot, there, Chris! :happy:

It's looking better now. I just finished the third coat, and while it was still wet, I pulled the gun back about a 18" and misted crosswise from the direction of the other coats. I think it'll look fine. Daughter will probably run into a pole at a gas station knowing her. :rolleyes:

Wondering, for future use, does the drop coat have to be applied to a wet coat, or can I mist it onto a flashed-off coat? You know, just in case I see something that needs a touch, but only have a shotglass of base left in the gun.

Thanks, bud!
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