65 mustang convertible

Show off your work! Anything from final results to full start-to-finish project journals.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 11:24 am
69cuda340s wrote:Cool project. Very unusual to find solid floors like that on an old convertible. Here on the east coast those floors/frame rails rusted out fairly early in those cars.


Good floors, inner rockers and torque boxes in a 65 stang, that's completely unheard of where I am :shocked:

If you put mine on that tilty gadget at the start it would have folded in half :splat:

You're very fortunate to have such a solid starting point, they make every repop piece you ever need but they don't fit worth a ****
Rob



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 3:19 pm
I definetly consider myself lucky to have such a solid chasis! Especially since this is my first restoration and when I bought it I really had not idea what to look for "Torque Box" whats that, "Inner rockers" wtf? I now know, but I got lucky!

Having said that, I managed to tear out the suspension over the last two weekends, and get the outside fender aprons (wheel wells) stripped, wire wheeled, and getting ready to apply paint and rebuild the suspension/disc break conversion. I found some superficial rust inside the shock towers, I applied Ospho let it do it converting, then ground it down.

Has anybody here ever used Master Series products? I am tempted to use it for the this area, the same moisture cured urethane (silver) I used on the floors as a concealer/undercoating, then top coat it with the chasis black. Either way feedback is always appreciated. I also got my doors stripped, only have a picture of one complete, the other still painted.
Attachments
outsidefender4.jpg
outsidefender3.jpg
After my new best friend, heavy duty wire wheel!
outsidefender2.jpg
outsidefender1.jpg
partly cleaned up



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 3:29 pm
Here is the passenger side, the suspension on this side was much more difficult to remove, but a lot of leverage/penetrating oil, mechanical advantage, and some persistence paid off! Doors are now stripped, found a few small dents, and a few little rustholes on the bottom sides of the door by the drain holes, might have to add it to the list of "cut & paste" items, find a way to patch it, or meybe use some weld to fill it? Open for suggestions?
Attachments
doors.jpg
outsidefender6.jpg
outsidefender5.jpg

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 4:26 pm
Not familiar with the masters series products.

Always best if you can cut out punky areas and replace with fresh metal. Having said that, it may not really be necessary if you don't want to go totally nuts on your restoration. If it's really small pin holes you could make sure you got the rust out and then smear some duraglass from the inside of the door so it pushes out the pin holes, then smooth over and sand. Either way it won't be perfect as the doors have that textured metal down there as I recall, so you'll be blending a smooth area into it. Not that you can see it unless you're laying on the ground under the door.
Rob



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 1:47 am
If you can find unthinned lacquer paint. You can duplicate that textured look
If it ain't BROKE fix it till it is!!



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 2:49 pm
Rjuhasz, I have never heard of duraglass, but it looks like a good product! The holes on the bottom of the door are very small ( probably like the head of a framing nail ) so that might fill them.

Well over the weekend I finished up wire wheeling the area, cleaned it up then primed it with Master Series Silver primer/encapsulator which is amazing, self leveling primer. Then I top coated it with master Series AG111 top coat black, gloss finish. It's is a two part moisture cured urethane and extremely chip/chemical resistant. Came out pretty awesome, kinda high gloss though, I was going to use it in the engine compartment but it might be a little too high gloss, we will see- not sure I want that much "bling" in there, but who know might be kinda cool. Opinions?

I am awaiting suspension/break components, and planning on stripping the engine compartment to get it painted out while I wait. I also never finished the underside of the frame rails of the engine compartment, so I am tempted to throw it up on the tilter jig and knock that out real quick while I have it stripped down, not really excited about crawling under there on a creeper or my back and doing it....!
Attachments
paint5.jpg
paint4.jpg
paint3.jpg
paint2.jpg
paint1.jpg

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 10:43 am
Looks great. I wanted lots of bling in my engine bay so I went with body color in there as well. I figure that's the way it should have been done in the first place like the Mopars :rockon:

Image
Rob



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 12:33 pm
Yeah I like the look of the Engine compartment same as the body, I have thought about it, but it might look odd in Silver Smoke Grey...? Yours looks sharp though!

After seeing yours now I am not so scared of painting a gloss in there, after all it is my car...

Are you done with your convertible? Looks like you did a similar restoration to mine.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 3:56 pm
devovino wrote:Yeah I like the look of the Engine compartment same as the body, I have thought about it, but it might look odd in Silver Smoke Grey...? Yours looks sharp though!

After seeing yours now I am not so scared of painting a gloss in there, after all it is my car...

Are you done with your convertible? Looks like you did a similar restoration to mine.


The way I look at it the Stangs are kind of a dime a dozen car, they're nice but there's lots of them out there so I'm quite content to make mine a restomod. I've shaved all emblems and of course the engine bay color plus a few other minor changes. I don't think it hurts the value so if that's what I like so be it.

I'm not sure what silver smoke grey looks like exactly but, for me anything looks better than flat black.

Nope not done mine, I've done almost all the sheet metal work but still wrestling with the front clip, had to go to a dynacorn repop fender and it's been a ton of work to get right. I'm getting close on it and then I have to fix the dynacorn shelby hood which is a 1/4" too narrow and doesn't line up with the headlight bezels correctly, so a bunch of glass work to do :knockout: I hope to be painting it by spring at the latest. Trunk, engine bay and jambs are painted and I have all the new suspension, motor and trans in so I am slowly getting there. Mine was a disaster when I started, replaced almost all the sheet metal :splat:
Rob



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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 4:01 am
nice project, im loving your contraption to tilt the car, its awesome,
I hope your not using child slave labour, lol!! my daughter (5yr old) was helping me today to put the 1/4 window rubbers in my ke20 today, actually both my daughters like to help out in the shed, my eldest actually "helped" with the shed foundations when we were pouring them, she got "stuck daddy!!" upto her waist in the concrete, lol, was funny as,
keep up the great work!!
krem
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