65 mustang convertible

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 1:35 pm
Hello All,

My name is Devon and in April (2014) I purchased, as the subject says, a 65 mustang convert A code. I am in the process a restoration, have it completely torn down and have been browsing this sight as to resource the best way to repaint the vehicle. Originally, the vehicle was a "K" code paint, which in 1965 meant it was Silver Smoke Grey, which was used only painted on 65 cars from ford. So my intention is to restore it to back to this original color.

Since 1965, it has had several re-paints on it ( yellow at one point, and green) both of which I have been removing to get me down to the metal. Its a long arduous process, I have tried a few different methods ( stripper, wire wheels, small sand blaster, DA ) and finally settled on an orbital grinder with 40 grit paper works the best. I am about 80% of the way done with getting it all down to the metal, have found a little bondo, a few rust holes ( lower rear quarter panels) that may need a few patch panels.

This is my first time attempting to repaint a car, I think the stress level goes up since it is a classic car, but have faith I can get it there. After all, its just paint and it can easy to fix.. right? However, as with most things I would like to it right the first time!

Long story short, I came here for guidance and to learn from folks who have been there and done that. I appreciate any feedback I will get. I will try and post a few pictures here.
Attachments
mustangmetal4.jpg
have to R&R inner fender apron, was rusted from battery
mustangmetal3.jpg
mustangmetal2.jpg
mustangmetal1.jpg

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 8:58 pm
:welcome: nice project!

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2015 10:04 am
:welcome:
My first restoration was a 68 mustang coupe. They are good projects for a number of reasons. From the restorer aspect because every part of these cars is being reproduced, information readily available, they are small so material costs aren't excessive, etc.
From the owner side because they are fun to drive and easy to sell when completed if you choose to go that way.
I will watch with interest your progress. Thanks for posting.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2015 2:43 pm
Thanks Chris, yeah it is definitely a great starting point compared to some "rustangs" I have seen people restoring!

68 R/T, yeah I have come to find the parts easily acessible, many many other mustangs have been restored prior to mine so there is a plethora of information to choose from, basically if you can think of if- been done before.

Car was advertised as 64 1/2 convert, sitting in Portland and owner needed money. I took his word bought it took it home and ran the numbers. Engine is a 302 out of a 68, and date code shows it actually a 65 built in February. So, I essentially knew this going in as I had the vin #, but either way it was a good deal and I have always wanted a convertible mustang. The car spent it entire life in Nor. Cal so its mostly rust free. In a way, kinda glad its not original it opens up doors to doing a resto-mod. I am looking into a 302 roller/T-5 swap from a foxbody mustang. In the process of overhauling the suspension/steering components right now (Shelby drop, UCA w/ roller perches, LCA, Bilstein shocks, springs, blah blah blah)

Now that I am home from work I can post some pictures got get y'all up to speed from where it sat when I purchased it- the above pictures.
Attachments
found 4.jpg
As I found it
found 4.jpg (13.62 KiB) Viewed 8343 times
Engine.jpg
As it sat, PO had pulled head and it sat rusting in Portland rain...
Engine.jpg (17.82 KiB) Viewed 8343 times



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2015 2:57 pm
After disassembly I built a "tilter" for the car to detail the undercarriage. I used a steam cleaner, heavy duty degreaser, and over cleaner to clean the underside, then I re-undercoated.
Attachments
mustangtilt2.jpg
mustangtilt1.jpg
home made tilter
mustangundersidebefore.jpg
50 years of grease, road grime, and other crap before steam cleaning
mustangundersideafter.jpg
after undercoating



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2015 3:05 pm
:wink: My crew that helped prep the floor, they are good for about 10 minutes.... Floor was in great shape I treated any superficial rust with ospho, ground off the residual, any old seam sealer then applied Master Series silver moisture cured Urethane. I still have to top coat the floors with Master Series Black top coat.
Attachments
floor1.jpg
littlehelper.jpg
Vanessa "helping" out dad....https://www.autobody101.com/forums/posting.php?mode=reply&f=12&sid=8cc5fad4e95519ae64042d7ed7ad8912&t=23915#



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2015 3:12 pm
Cut into the cowl area to inspect, I had pressure washed it out, blown it out several times but I could still see it was full of debris. The best I could think of to access it w/o pulling the whole thing apart. Thankfully it was not rusted out, in fact is was in pretty **** good shape compared to some I have seen.
Attachments
cowl2.jpg
cowl1.jpg
50 yrs of random debris collected in the cowl, the other side was about the same.



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2015 3:24 pm
So that's about what I have for now, things have gotten cold here in the high deserts of Oregon so there has been a little bit of a work stopage. I dont see spraying Epoxy in this weather would be conducive to a a great product! Envious of everybody who has insulated/heated shops to work in! Hope to get motivated and continue forward soon!
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snow2.jpg
snow1.jpg

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2015 10:12 pm
Generally you would use a spot weld remover and drill the 14 million spot welds holding the cowl cover panel.
And you are right, the cowl vents are usually rusted beyond repair, leak down on the floor and rust out the floor pans too.

I hope to one day get a 69 Mach 1 to restore for myself. Maybe right after my Hemi Cuda restoration. LOL
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 8:44 am
Cool project. Very unusual to find solid floors like that on an old convertible. Here on the east coast those floors/frame rails rusted out fairly early in those cars.
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