Yeah there seems to be a few mustangs on the road, but they are getting more rare I think as time goes by! Not Charger R/T by any means, but convertibles are harder to find in good shape. I sounds like a lot of work was needed for yours to get it back into shape, seems to be the underlying theme with a lot of mustangs.

Well, Silver Smoke Grey was paint code "K", and only used in 1965. I plan to repaint it this color as it is fairly rare. It is a metallic color and depending on light it can seem silver, light green, or grey- every picture I see of it is always different? I will attach a few

Krem, yeah the kiddos try to "help" out doing odds and ends but usually end up losing interest after a short time! With the tilter I built, I got the idea from a member of another Mustang forum I am on, so I copied his design and it seems to work great! Maybe someday I will buy a professional rotisserie, but could not justify the cost at the time.

Suspension components arrived last week, drilled holes to the the Shelby drop but did not have a lot of time, other obligations, but such is life- onward and upward!

That color looks really nice! Really interesting that it can look as green as it does in that one pic. And don't get me wrong, I wasn't knocking the car in any way just encouraging you to do whatever you want to it, as you said it's your car. I figure with as many as there is of them, altering them is quite acceptable, at least to me. If I had a Shelby I wouldn't mess with it but a non numbers matching rust bucket like I started with gives me creative freedom to do as I please.

I think that color in the engine bay would look way better than the stock flat black, but the original would be a lot easier to keep clean if you have it as a daily driver I would imagine.

I did the Shelby drop as well, and went with a 1" lowered suspension, or at least it's supposed to be. I don't have the entire car assembled so there's still some weight to be added but I'm skeptical that it's even going to be as low as it was before. I'm somewhat concerned about this I can use lowering blocks in the back if need be but the front had better come down a fair bit.

Chipping away as time permits, I know this is an "Autobody" forum so I hope nobody minds me posting other progress leading up to to body work to come..?

Anyways, I finished the driver side suspension- new UCA,LCA, Roller Spring Perches, and GT 1in lowering springs,wheel studs, and have Bilstein shocks on the way. Also I upgraded the old drum brake assembly reusing the Hub/spindle. I bought a kit from Mustang Steve which is a bracket that allows me to mount 13.2in rotors and Calipers from a 2014 GT Mustang ( I bought them from Rousch Racing as take off parts so they are brand new) I painted the calipers/hub with Silver Caliper Paint, and Mustang Steve bracket and spindle with Black Epoxy (VHT ) pretty easy assembly except the coil kicked my **** but ultimately figured it out.

Oh, I forgot to mention I did the Shelby drop **** well! Hooray for me!

So now as I am getting closer to paint and have been stripping paint the old fashioned way- grinding away! I am thinking I would like to "shave" badges from the fenders/hood. What would be the best way to do this? I know the smaller holes on the lower front fender miiiight be able to be filled with weld, anybody ever do this? As for the larger holes, will I need to cut out the area and weld in a patch? I will try and post a picture. Also along the front lip of the hood there was the F-O-R-D lettering also fairly small holes, fillable with weld? Filling with Bondo does not seem right?

Our suspension setup is pretty much identical, same 1" spring drop and roller perches, I got the adjustable strut rods to boot, we'll see if it's all worth the hype. I have subframe connectors to add once I have all the weight on it. It was fun drilling the holes for the Shelby drop, better hang on to that drill for all your worth or you'll break a wrist or two when it binds

I got rid of every emblem and trim piece, want it as clean as possible. You can weld all the small holes up directly, like the F O R D lettering on the hood. For bigger holes like the trim on the quarter just past the door I cut out sheet metal plugs and weld them in. I have a stud gun so I zap a stud onto the plug so I can hold it in place while I weld it in. If you don't have one a bit of coat hanger tacked onto it would work, anything that lets you get a handle on it as you're dealing with 1/4" - 3/8" sized holes so impossible to hold.

I am still up in the air about the adjustable strut rods but have looked at them. I have been dealing with Open Tracker Racing Products- great guy with a wealth of information, he stated that they are good products but might be overkill for my application- and also said it would behoove me to have Roller LCA if I went that route. I might just do the standard strut rods with rubber bushings?

I was also not sure about replacing that piece of chrome behind the doors, have actually not been able to even remove it yet- its kinda a **** to get to, but I need it off there to remove the paint behind it. I was told however that it collects water behind it, and it might be good to delete it? I like the idea of welding it shut with some plugs, it would definitely clean it up!

Our builds are pretty similar which helps me out as I can monitor your progress and "follow your lead" and learn from your mistakes!!

I have been looking for a good used stud gun, I have a few dents that need pulling, still looking. I am trying to save all my welding for one period of time and knock it all out. I have to weld back down my access holes for the cowl area, inner fender apron ( I have left it off as it is easier to get in the engine area to clean up and paint, and I will be replacing the steering components so I need in there. I also have a few patches to do in the lower rear quarter panels.

Finished the install of my passenger side suspension components, and the disc break conversion! Mustang Steve Brackets make it so easy to adapt to the existing spindle/hub, obviously the 2nd side was way easier (trial and error from the first side). Also my Street valved bilstein shocks arrived and threw those on there!

So I continued with the last of the paint removal ( just have a little left) on the passenger side rear quarter panel, and ran into a little bit of bondo? I was not able to get it all off there yet, but I am hoping it will be ok under there, the other side had some bondo in the same area but not this much!

I got my suspension from Open Tracker as well, John is a great guy and doesn't seem to mind being pestered with questions from time to time. The adjustable strut rods were my own idea not his, as far as I know it just helps with dialing in your alignment. I had already done the disc brake conversion when we first got the car and were using it daily, 4 way drums on a stang are terrifying

I don't really like the look of that trim so I wanted it gone plus everything that lays on your paint collects water and dirt if you drive it in crappy weather. It's been a while since I removed them but I know it's doable.

Your back quarter looks more like a regular mustang with some damage showing. The other thing I did there was fix the valance gap, it's quite horrific in stock form, here's my before and after

Been a bit since I posted here, just thought I would give an update if anybody gives a rip. Moved to the rear end R&R rear end, switched out stock gears for 3.55 and a limited slip diferential. New mid eye lowering springs, and was able to attach the 2014 disc brakes to that rear end, just finishing up with routing the brake lines.

Here is a few of the new leafs/shackles, and the rear end in place with the new rotors/discs/calipers installed.

Also, as you can see I am about done with paint removal here, and am curious about a few things. I will most likely not get to prep/paint any time soon. I do live in the high desert of Oregon where relative Humidity is very low. I have seen no flash rust, but is there any harm in letting it sit until I am able to get to painting? Like through the winter, it has been a year now and have not seen any rusting (other than where I was carrying the doors, and my greasy fingers made it flash rust there) In speaking with the rep from **********, he said its not a big deal, if it does flash rust a little, just sand it back off as prep for painting>?