89 Mustang GT project "new member"

Show off your work! Anything from final results to full start-to-finish project journals.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2015 11:50 pm
If you want to see your progress when wet sanding clear, spray some solvent based Wax and Grease Remover on there and wipe it off. Before it evaporates look closely at the panel. You will see any left over scratches from the coarser grit paper and if it is waving at you and you know the panel is straight you will need to take a hard block to it. Urethane wave will sand out but not with a soft sanding block.
For a show car finish with a sharp reflection I have a piece of Oak that is 1 x 1 1/2 x 4 or so inches long. I wrap it with 800 or 1000 grit depending on thickness of clear coat and wet sand with it working a 6" x 6" square at a time until is flat. Slow going but it gets results.
Here's the reflection from the door on my R/T:
Image
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2015 3:45 pm
68 Coronet I may just leave it and see how it looks after buffing. Even though I have 4 good wet coats of clear I'm still a little worried about getting to aggressive with the cut. Sure would hate to hit BC and have to spray again. I am using the hard rubber block for cutting not as hard as oak though but like you said should have started a little lower on the grit to get that laser flat surface.
Spraying the fenders now just waiting on flash for another coat of clear.
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PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2015 10:08 pm
Was away in Washington state for my son's wedding so had a little break from the car. Got back on it today. Just finished spraying the front bumper cover. What a pain tried like hell not to get overspray with all the different angles some areas laid out good and other areas not so good. :cry: but hey nothing some wet sanding cant get out. :knockout:
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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2015 3:23 pm
Goona look good in all that Blue
Are you gonna do a Stripe to break it up a bit?
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2015 9:34 am
Was gonna paint some sort of stripe in black then chickened out. :whoops: Kept going back and forth with it. Decided if I'm gonna put the stripe or black accents may do it in vinyl "sticker" instead and if I don't like it take it off but eventually will come up with something to break up all that blue. :neutral:
Spraying the hood and hatch today started early but its already creeping up to 90 degrees in the garage. :knockout:



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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2015 1:07 pm
Looking good.



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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2015 9:57 am
Well been a little slow going now. Garage is 95-100 degrees by 11:00am so get a couple hours in here and there. Body is cut and buffed. Used 68 Coronets regime on that and works great man! :worthy: Also found out the micro fiber towels I was using put slight scratches in the clear so got to find another towel to wipe down after the menzerna. Here is a pic of the body.
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I have run into a problem. In my haste to get cutting and buffing on the roof I had to reinstall the sunroof I waited 48hrs after clear before the install used CRL automotive silicone from a sunroof company. The following day it appeared that the front edge corners of the sunroof melted down into the clear and the rear corners have two blisters at the edge. The straights areas are all good just the corners.
First pic front corner melt.
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Second pic blister.
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I'm thinking solvents are the culprit? Along with installing too soon? Am going to let paint stabilize for a few months see if anything else pops up. Its been a month and a half and nothing growing or changing. Blisters are soft to touch and will push down they are about 1/4" wide by half inch length and run along the corner edge of sunroof.
Now how to address the situation? see if you all think I'm on the right track. Sand down and feather out blistered areas BC/CC blend areas. Keep in mind I have never blended before but doing the search and following the procedures I think I can pull it off. :knockout: Feel free to give me other suggestions on how to fix. Thank you all.



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 10:35 am
Well an update on the project. Once the summer temps kicked in it was slow going the garage was reaching temps of 100-120 and I still had a couple things to spray so had to wait for at least some cooler temperatures to finish the other parts and was able to get to them at the end of last month. Paint is done, cut and buffed. I am satisfied with the overall results for my first BC/CC spray. There were problems here and there but was able to trouble shoot and get through them nothing major. I think lighting in the garage became my biggest issue, even with 9 double T8's, 6 on the ceiling and 1 midway down on 3 walls it still was not enough for my eyes.
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Now its back to the mechanical side of things. The current transmission isn't going to handle the new power with sticky tires and surprised its made it this long through three other builds of increasing horsepower so either go with a better trans or rebuild this one with better parts and hope for the best.
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If I had to do it all again with a foxbody I would definitely do an LX or Coupe over the GT model. Those sideskirts are a pain and during assembly with the paint I was just waiting to crack them but made it through without issue.
Thanks all for the help. The search button is your friend lots of info here on this site.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 12:17 pm
Nice Job!
Many first time restorations never get completed. Just seeing it through puts you ahead of the game.

You can always add the stripes later. :wink:
1968 Coronet R/T


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