A Little Different Restoration Project

Show off your work! Anything from final results to full start-to-finish project journals.



Settled In
Posts: 33
Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2016 9:50 pm
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2016 2:53 pm
Looking good!



Settled In
Posts: 29
Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2015 10:57 am

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 3:49 pm
I was always curious as to what the shell weighed but never had the motivation to load it on a trailer and goto a weigh station and then unload and do it again empty and subtract.
For those that haven't followed the entire build thread the car is down to the shell. (Completely) the only factory metal I have removed is the front radiator lower mounts and the spare tire well.

It weighs in at 523 pounds. (Scale weight minus the 38lb 4x4 I have bolted on to make moving it around easier)

It was weighed at 3 points (used an aircraft scale) switching the single point around from front to rear gave the exact same weight. I tested accuracy with a 20 pound dumbbell placed in several places around the car and the total was always correct (plus 20 lbs)

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Settled In
Posts: 29
Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2015 10:57 am

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2016 1:48 pm
Still rolling along. I'm getting after all the small things that no one will see/notice but me. I should just leave them be but I know I will loose sleep over it.

I missed a little glue from the front windshield on this corner. I know it would be hidden by the new one but it was bugging me.
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Almost done with this guy. Nothing too big here, just a few small pinhole sized things.
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The biggest pain in the butt are the edges. ( I made another post on this site and got some good help/ideas) There are only 2-3 that burned through but none the less its a paint. I have to mask the entire car, skuff the area of the metal back down too around a 220 grit, spray etching primer, then within the respray window I have to re-coat high build. Then the whole process starts over again when I pull all the masking off, take the car back outside and wet sand to 600.

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I did add a few more lights in the booth just for good measure because we all know that you can never have too much light.

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The lower rocker panels and the edges on the underside of the fender flare/lip are kinda a pain as well. Its just a tough angle to get at and see. The lower rocker panels were okay but had a few dings and chips from misplaced floor jacks and what not. I didn't go as far as to pull every single little dent seeing the side skirts will cover them, but i did smooth all the scratches and skuffs out. The lip on the rear quarter panel flare (best way I can think to describe it) is pretty simple with no damage, just got missed in all the initial spraying because of the angle. Hardest part here is the tight masking to keep over spray off the undercoating.

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This right here is the last big thing I have left to do, or should I say re-do. This is where I removed the fuel filler door and welded it up. There has always been a high spot on the bottom left corner and I had it about where I was content (not really) and i just couldn't stand it any more and had to fix it. What im assuming happened was that when I welded the door up that I went slow enough to not have to worry with warping the thin metal fuel door, but I ended the weld at the bottom corner and the little bit of flex it had left ended there and bowed the quarter panel about 1/16th of an inch out. (just enough that you cant see if with your eyeball but your had will catch it) So after much contemplation I got the very precise tool of a hammer and a small 2x4 and gave it one pop and solved the problem. I cleaned the whole area up because of all the layers of failed attempts to fix it so that when I glaze over my new spot here it will be simple and clean. I'm still not sure why I didn't do this to start with.
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Otherwise its getting there. Slowly. I spot a few small things every time I go in the garage so I need to just get to where I am happy and spray it, otherwise Ill spend 2 more years fixing stupid things. (like a scratch on the back side of the dash bar)



Settled In
Posts: 29
Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2015 10:57 am

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2016 2:07 pm
This corner gave me fits from day one of the project. It was one of the first things I worked on and it was literally the last piece of body work I finished. Its not perfect, but it passes the guide coat, hand, and eyeball test so good enough.
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Rear bumper primed up and ready to go. I got both front and rear bumpers from a junk yard and the rear turned out pretty decent with a few scuffs. The front had been repaired at the bottom lip but you could see it until I started scuffing to paint. Lots of bondo and I decided to bite the bullet and just buy a new one online. They are pretty cheap actually. shipped to my door for 65 dollars.
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I've got a Devilbiss Finishline spray gun but really wanted to attempt to save that for the clear so I bought some of the el-cheapo harbor freight guns (assuming 2 would work) and to be honest, they work pretty dang good. I bought 3 with the coupon for $39.00. the sealer and base went on so nice that I sprayed clear with the 3rd gun to see how it looked. Ive got some slight orange peel in the clear but it actually turned out nice for a 14 dollar spray gun.
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I decided to start with stuff that no one will ever see so I could get some practice in before spraying the exterior. My biggest issue right now is I cant fit all the small parts inside my paint booth but yet I cant leave the car outside overnight. For the back sides of panels it takes around 3 hours to spray the 2 coats of sealer, 2 coats of base, and 2 coats of clear. Seeing that the final coat says it takes 8 hours to cure (some people told me 2 hours but im not willing to risk it) I can only paint one booth full of stuff a day. So it took 2 days to get all the small parts and back sides.

Getting ready to go.
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Seal Coat
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Base Coat
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Fresh Clear Coat
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Outside in the sun the next day
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The 2nd round went pretty good as well but I learned a few really good lessons. #1 air hose control is harder than spraying paint. #2 don't paint close to the floor. Aside from the fact that fenders are the biggest pain in the arse to get to sit still on a saw horse (which I gave up on) I used boxes thinking that that would be the trick. I was wrong. Common sense will tell you that you will stir up the overspray/dirt when you spray air close to the floor. My brain apparently had to much paint fumes that day. Its still fine seeing its the back side of the panel but im going to do a little sanding and re-clear it along with keeping everything elevated from here on out. It ended up with a good amount of specs on it, compared to the rear hatch that is 2 feet away but 4 feet in the air and as far as I can tell only has one little spec of dirt on it.

You can sort of see the fender in the bottom of this picture
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Same thing with the other parts, stuff up came out pretty darn good. Stuff closer to the ground will take some elbow grease to get cleaned up.
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Back side of the rear hatch
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So far I only have one piece that im going to take down and redo completely. I painted the lower door moldings separately so I can spray the entire door when its on the car and some how after all my checking and re-checking of the parts one of these pieces of molding got by me with some of the double sided tape still on there. Beats me. (its the "dull one, I didn't waste clear on it knowing I was going to fix it)
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So as we sit I have one more batch of stuff for the booth before the shell of the car comes in to stay. I'm going to paint the front and rear bumpers last seeing they are so big and bulky that its hard to put them anywhere safe after im finished.

Here she is getting her last "super bath" as I call it. This was about 6 hours with regular boring dish soap, a bucket, water hose, air gun, and the shop vac. If there is dirt hiding in the car then it can stay.
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I could have started on the interior of the shell just to keep things moving but I had to go to work for a few days and I didn't want to leave the tape on the car any longer than I had too. I've already fought the tape goo battle.

Thanks for following! Ill keep the pictures coming as I get them!



Settled In
Posts: 29
Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2015 10:57 am

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2016 3:01 pm
Decided to figure out the "good" spray gun.

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Devilbiss Finishline 4. I thought that the harbor freight guns are pretty darn good for 16 bux a piece... until i used the new gun. I'm sure im preaching to the choir here.

Here she goes... Her last trip outside in her primer grey style. This was after washing it again for the eleventy-billionth time.
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Taping is alot more time consuming than I thought it would be. Its been taking me about 3 hours per session to tape for what I'm spraying that day. It may look weird the way I have the car taped but there is a method to the madness. I went around the car "practicing" and came to the simple conclusion that I could physically not paint the floor of the cabin and the roof of the interior at the same time. (I cant bend that way) To solve this problem I broke the spraying of the chassis into 3 stages.
1. Bulk interior, hatch, and rear area behind the rear bumper
2. Floor of the interior, door jams, and engine bay. Paint booth didn't have enough room to paint the back and front (engine bay) of the car at the same time so I broke that up as well.
3. The scary part that everyone sees... the exterior. This part isn't completed yet. Ran out of time, had to go on a trip for work and didn't want to stop in the middle.

Enough yacking... here's some pictures
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Seal coat in black
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First run of Base Coat
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And then the rest
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Lights hitting the dash bar kinda funny for some reason
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And the engine bay
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Thanks! I will keep them coming!



Fully Engaged
Posts: 310
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2013 5:10 am

Country:
Australia
PostPosted: Tue Aug 30, 2016 5:21 am
mate, well done, great effort, cant wait to see how this turns out!!
im definately building a booth for my next project, lol, did you get much dust in wat youve already painted??
krem
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