First paint project. Need some help
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Settled In
Posts: 12
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2015 8:05 pm Country: USA |
Hello all. Thanks for all of the valuable information on here. I have learned a lot. I have started my project and have a question. I am having issue with orange peel in my clear coat. It looks like I may need to sand it down and start over. But until I get the reason why it is looking like this, I am just wasting time. Any input would be greatly appreciated. I am using a 1.4 tip size. PSI at gun inlet I have tried between 22-28PSI. When I put it on it doesnt look wet it looks more like splotchy, or dry if that makes any sense. It isn't an air supply problem. I am running high flow fittings with a 2 stage compressor and 3/8" hose. Compressor actually only kicked on once. I have tried varying distance from project and speed of each pass. What could be the cause of orange peel like this? I will try one thing at a time until I figure it out. Also I did reduce the clear as the manufacture recommended. Thank you for your input.
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You don't say what kind of gun or the settings used but my first thoughts, looking at those pictures are:
- Substrate not sanded smooth - Base coat applied too thick - Gun held too far from panel - Incorrect gun settings - Incorrect hardener/thinner (too fast) If you can wet sand that back to smooth, without going through, you may be able to rectify with two wet coats of clear. It's pretty rough, though. Open the settings on your gun up and get in closer, around 150mm from the panel. Test your technique on some scrap first. Chris
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Settled In
Posts: 12
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2015 8:05 pm Country: USA |
Thank you for the suggestions Chris. The gun is an lph 400. The settings I have written down in the shop but if I remember correctly fan was two turns from wide open and fluid 2.5 from max. What grit should I start with to try to see if I can get it flat workout going through the clear.
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I suspect this may be a major part of your problem. I don't have one of those guns but most of mine only have about 3 turns from full fluid (i.e. when you can feel contact with the trigger), to fully closed. Open up the fluid control to the point where it no longer stops movement of the trigger and use that as a starting point, turning in maybe only a half turn if really necessary. Since you're going to repaint or reclear then you can start the wet sanding at P800 but be careful - it cuts very quickly. Go P1000 or P1200 if you want to be more conservative. It will just take a bit longer. Chris
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Settled In
Posts: 12
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2015 8:05 pm Country: USA |
Great. Thanks for your help. I had a couple other small imperfections so I will probably just sand it all down and start over. I enjoy the work and am practicing.
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That gun needs to be about 4" from the surface when spraying.
Moving about 12" per second and at least 50% overlap. Fluid knob about 1/2 turn in from full open. I back the knob all the way out and hold the trigger full open while turning the knob in until I feel the trigger start to lift. Let go of the trigger and go 1/2 turn more. 22 psi at the gun with trigger pulled wide open for base 24-26 psi for clear. 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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Fully Engaged
Posts: 253
Joined: Mon Nov 16, 2015 11:34 am Location: New Jersey Country: USA |
^^^agree^^^^ . Also depends on what clear your using. Some clears are thicker then others which need more pressure to atomise correctly.
Good work don't come cheap, cheap work isn't always good!
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Settled In
Posts: 12
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2015 8:05 pm Country: USA |
Thanks to all for suggestions. It was not enough fluid as many stated and not nearly enough overlap. I set my gun up as you suggested coronet and got much better results. I do have a couple of other questions. How much paint or clear do you guys mix? Not so much the amount, but what I am asking is if I am planning on doing 2 or 3 coats of clear. Do I mix up enough to do all coats? and do you leave that in the gun between coats? or do you pour it back in the mixing cup and clean your gun between coats? Thanks again |
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