1974 SD TA

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PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2016 3:19 pm
I shot a sealer coat of Tamco epoxy primer in the back yard today and I wasn't completely disappointed. Just sort of.

First, here's a photo of the doors and the header panel after I put the epoxy sealer on. This stuff goes on a LOT quicker than the build primer so you better keep that gun moving. I have runs on both ends of the header panel that I will have to sand. Another problem I have is that this stuff stays tacky a lot longer as well. Doing this out doors is not a great idea. I've got a lot of trash that I'm going to end up sanding out. I think my plan moving forward is going to be to get all the other parts ready for sealer and either go to a paint booth or build a temporary booth in my garage for shooting the sealer.

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My cause for minor disappointment was this:

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That's the tip of my index finger. I found 2 places, this one being the largest, where I had some type of contaminate on the surface. Oh well, more sanding is all.

I do have a couple of questions. It took four hours for this to not be tacky. I'm worried that I misread the paint cup when I was mixing or something. Should it have taken that long to set? The second question regards the hint of orange peel I have in finish. I know I can sand it out but any suggestions on adjustments to help me eliminate the orange peel all together?

Details:
Eastwood Concours HVLP gun with 1.8 tip.
Running 45PSI at the wall that drops to 40 with the trigger pulled on the gun.
50 foot 1/4 inch hose with high flow fittings.
Mixed 1:1 per instructions on the primer.



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PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2016 9:38 pm
I'd like to say today was very productive but it wasn't. I will say that it was a day of learning.

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I was using TAMCO epoxy to seal some parts. I elected to use locally sourced TranStar reducer with it figuring reducer is reducer. As you can see, not so. I shot about half the parts I had in the booth with this combination and all of them had runs with white, frothy edges as you can see in the photos. Luckily I was able to get after it with lacquer thinner and paper towels and it all came off. Props to Brian Blocker, my brother in law and the owner of the paint booth for suggesting we wipe it off right away. Being a professional, he's been here before. As a matter of fact he questioned me using something other than TAMCO's reducer to start with. I guess I should have listened.

I cleaned the gun, got a fressh mixing cup and went 1:1 with no reducer and the primer went down perfectly. The moral of this story is not think you're smarter than all those folks out there who've already learned these lessons. Don't mix products or take short cuts. Lesson learned. Here's photos of the other fender and the center section of the spoiler to give you an idea of what it looks like when it's done properly.

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PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2016 8:17 am
I use a 1.4 tip for epoxy primer and especially when reduced to use as a sealer.
Glad you got it worked out.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 11:40 am
As 68RT said I too use a 1.4 for Epoxy as well, that contamination you had looks like W/G remover that wasn't flashed off completely. It soaks into primer and looks flashed off when its not, be careful.

Hows the Trunk and your lower quarter panels in your car?
I'm still working on mine doing the Trunk drop offs on both sides now then I'm going to put the rear panel back on and move on to replacing the Forward Cowell panel and repairing the upper rocker panels on both sides mine was a bad rust bucket that should have been scrapped out to begin with, I have learned a lot though doing it.
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



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PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2016 1:07 pm
I was using a 1.4 tip. I'm just not very good at this. :flatten:

Sometimes you can fix stupid.

I was trying to use epoxy to seal parts thinking that was SOP. My brother in law questioned why I was doing that and asked why the line I was using didn’t have a sealer. I told him I thought that’s what the epoxy was for. So I went back to Chris's store front here and sure enough, they sell color shaded sealers. So I ordered up a gallon of the white.

It’s amazing how using the correct product in the correct way makes things easier. This stuff went down smooth as silk and covers very well.

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I even managed to get away with using the wife's patio umbrella as a tree for hanging wet parts to dry. Ah, a good day!

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Oh, Doright, if you'll find that link I posted at the beginning of this thread you'll see where I replaced the driver's side quarter and used a patch on the passenger side. I actually have an NOS quarter for the passenger side but elected to patch what I had rather than use up a very rare and expensive NOS piece. To explain, 1974 was a one year only quarter panel for Firebirds. It had the small back glass and the new cutouts for the urethane bumpers. So NOS quarters easily sell for $3K if you can even find one.



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PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2016 1:11 pm
There wasn’t much progress this week as the wife and I drove to North Carolina to watch my granddaughter graduate from high school. I’m feeling my age. I used to be able to knock down 2200 miles of driving and never feel it. Not so much anymore.

I did get a couple of hours Sunday so I shot sealer on the other fender and the shaker. So some progress.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 26, 2016 4:06 pm
sdcritter wrote:
Oh, Doright, if you'll find that link I posted at the beginning of this thread you'll see where I replaced the driver's side quarter and used a patch on the passenger side. I actually have an NOS quarter for the passenger side but elected to patch what I had rather than use up a very rare and expensive NOS piece. To explain, 1974 was a one year only quarter panel for Firebirds. It had the small back glass and the new cutouts for the urethane bumpers. So NOS quarters easily sell for $3K if you can even find one.


Hey Critter
ya I had been lurking on your thread over there for a while off and on.
I don't get on any of these forums much any more been working to much with no over time cheap employer taking advantage of me being salary employee 70+ hrs a wk weeks at a time no day's off but at least I can say my Boss has been and is working harder than me!
One of these days I will get back at it sooner than later I hope
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2016 9:03 am
I've been slowed by the high heat and humidity lately. The promised us a break this week. So much for that. We had 2 days where it was only low 90's and slightly lower humidity. We're headed for triple digits next week. Sheesh!

I did get a couple of evenings in the garage with my hood. I had already put down 2 layers of build primer so I sanded that out, filled the low spots and have sanded them as well. Now it's ready for more build primer, a final sanding and then sealer.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2016 6:06 pm
You're starting to get the hang of that block sanding aren't you?
Truth is the painting is the fun part - the prep is the work.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2016 7:45 pm
That is so true.

I helped judge a car show last weekend. There was a nice highboy with a deep purple metal flake paint job. Some kid was standing there talking to the owner and he asked what a paint job like that would cost, "$5,000?". We both laughed. People are in shock when I tell them that if I had to pay someone to do the job I want done it could easily be $15,000.
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