46 International project

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Joined: Mon Jul 10, 2017 10:38 pm

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2017 11:48 pm
Hey guys, First post and first time painter. Working on a fist full resto of a 46 International pickup. Engine and chassis is all ready to go and now the body work begins. Ready to start applying Epoxy primer and I had a few questions.
I will be doing a panel at a time due to room (final color and clear will happen at Dad's garage, big compressor, paint room etc..).

Question is what primer do I use over the epoxy. I was told it would be better in my case to spray epoxy then spray primer then do my body filler etc. That way I would have more time to work with my panels. Otherwise I would prob miss the re-coat window time and have to sand epoxy again. The Evercoat should stick to the primer just as well as epoxy correct?
Just was unsure of which primer, Urethane Surfacer, High Build Primer Surfacer, or regular Primer Surfacer. Plan on going with PPG Deltron line. Going back to original Red color. (not single stage). Epoxy DP90LF

One more while I'm here. Just starting P&B with rear fenders and had the wonderful introduction to the hammer and dolly. :knockout: Had alot of little dents, nothing too terrible but also have some rust pitting near bottom edge of fender.
Question is, how do you know, if I need a skim-coat of filler over all of fender or Spray coats of poly filler..? I did my best, without fatiguing metal but it's not super straight, there is just little bumps nothing really supper high or low.

I'm guessing I will need to skim coat whole fender just due to age and the few bumps. Poly filler should pretty much be near the end, after blocking a few primer spays down flat. Is this correct?
Thanks for the help. Here are a few pics. And the completed chassis.

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Top Contributor
Posts: 6731
Joined: Tue May 19, 2009 7:10 pm
Location: OREGON COAST
PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 11:52 am
COOL, frame and engine look good! :clap: how about some more pictures? as for your fenders there are a number of ways to attack that problem. 1 you can take a semi soft sanding pad with some 80 grit and block sand the outside, it should leave some areas that don't get sanded and some that do. the ones that do are outies and the ones that don't show any sanding are inies. you can also do this on the inside of the fender. this will let you see the ones,inies that need to be bumped out. I use a rubber hammer or a sanding pad and a steel hammer on bigger shallow dents. small sharp dents can be fixed with a hammer and dolly. be carful about hammer on dolly it tends to stretch the metal. you can also guide coat the outside and block. or you can shoot a coat of epoxy and guide coat it and block. I like to get my metal as smooth as possible before I start thinking about any primer or filler it saves time and work in the long run.
here's what I would do with the fender if I were to do it. I would smooth out all the metal as smooth as I can with metal working tools. then da with 80 grit until clean and brite. now wipe with wax and grease remover several times until my rag stays clean then blow it off wile rubbing with your hand or clean rag this gets all the lint from your W/G rag off the metal. now its ready to prime with your epoxy. i'm not real familiar with the DP I have used it but years ago. if you think the fender is smooth just apply 2 wet coats of epoxy let that flash good then 2-3 wet coats of high build guide coat and block with 180. be sure to check your product info sheets for flash times and recoat times.
good luck
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 5:22 pm
Thanks for the info, just got back from paint supply to do the exact thing you mentioned. Got most of the dents out with hammer and dolly over last couple of weeks (nubs fingers to prove it...:)
Here's a better shot of chassis and motor.
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Top Contributor
Posts: 6731
Joined: Tue May 19, 2009 7:10 pm
Location: OREGON COAST
PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 6:15 pm
NICE detail, the frame is smooth looks like its new, that will make a cool truck. you must be in a dry area like Montana or some place.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 11:28 pm
Thanks! Yeah it's a fun truck to work on, just don't be missing any parts. Not too many parts available on this truck. Frame was Eastwood 2K chassis black. In Dallas, Texas, not too dry and not too humid. Just hot... Truck was a Texas truck, underneath was covered in oil and "Texas gumbo" hard sticky black mud. Kinda mummified it.

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Posts: 9878
Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 12:40 pm
Location: ARIZONA
PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2017 8:40 am
You are doing a quality job on this truck.
I moved your post here so that others can follow your progress and benefit from your experiences. :goodjob:
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2019 4:51 pm
UPDATE:
Hey gang, it's been awhile since last post and one thing I have to say is.... I have the upmost respect for body and paint experts now!
Wow, this has been some work.
Update: Bought Eastwood's rotatory stripper, works great but a lot of work. (still handy though). Ended up mostly using a great Dustless Blasting guy here. No warping anywhere.
Fixed all metal issues. Covered everything in Epoxy, then 2k high build. Kinda ended up doing most filler work over sanded High build and epoxy on body. Though is was straighter than it was... Bed filler was over epoxy. Still seems un-protected to me to put filler over bare metal. Also re-coated all filler work and bare spots with another single coat of epoxy before second 2K HB. Got as straight as possible using guide coat etc. Also first primer spay I didn't use any reducer (person at paint store said you can go with out it if you want) so I did and didn't realize till later it came out like bed liner. So it took a lot of unnecessary extra sanding to get it all smooth.
Now everything in second round has a nice 3 coats of (reduced) High build and single layer of epoxy underneath primer and it came out like smooth butter. Cab is done, doors, hood, fenders. And now I have just one or two day left sanding on bed and re coat with my HB.

So now I'm ready to start working towards color. Plan was to sand with 320 then 400 then color (Red)

Pics below and a couple of questions.

What do you guys do for sanding around hard bead rolls, irregular areas. This truck has a lot of nooks and crannies. (Also areas that are original to keep like spot welds, old manufacturing techniques etc). I try to use blocks everywhere but it's tough. Can't imagine sanding clear in areas like this... Granted this is for final sanding.

Any opinions on a good Red. Man there are a lot of Reds. Original Red is out, to me too Orange looking.
http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedi ... ky&rows=50
Was kinda leaning towards Jeep's Firecracker Red. Just looking for a nice (non metallic) red not too orange or blood/fire truck red. Or too modern looking for truck that doesn't have any body chrome, just bumpers.

Also really low on space in my shop (frame is parked at father's) and have to transport body pieces to his single garage, we will have set aside for painting. (He restores car as hobby and has the better garage set up for painting). Question is, what body parts should I start with (sanding 400 and color/clear) Thought is, what is easy to hard maybe for first time painter. Fenders first? Bed? Doors?

Also will I need to tape and cut off separate areas like inside cab to outside for the Bed for over-spray issues? Same with doors?
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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2019 4:54 pm
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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2019 4:57 pm
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Settled In
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Jul 10, 2017 10:38 pm

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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2019 4:58 pm
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