How to remove labels from new primed TPO pieces
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I'm working on the 3 pieces of bumper filler on a 1988 Chevy C1500. They are new primed TPO pieces that I was hoping to just scuff, seal, and shoot, but there are literally a half dozen labels on each piece that just shred when you try to peel them off. I tried a couple different solvents and the only thing they removed was the primer. I tried an eraser wheel and that just smeared the adhesive around, and a plastic razor blade got some of it, but there is still residue. Is there a way to remove the labels from these parts without removing the primer?
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Yeah, those things stink don't they? A pretty much universal adhesive remover is VMP Naphtha available at any hardware store usually in a quart can. It doesn't have to have the VMP as that is an old Varnish Makers and Painters terminology for the stuff. Soak the label a couple of times and it should come off without damaging the primer. Bad thing is....if it does damage the primer that's some cheap primer that you should be removing anyway.
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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Also, if you are careful with a hairdryer or (very careful) with a heat gun, sometimes you get lucky and can heat up the label and slowly peel it off.
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Well, I tried water, and all the labels are gone, but all the adhesive is still there. At that point, I decided to move on to something else. I'll give the naptha a go tomorrow. I get what you guys are saying about the cheap primer, but how do I get it off without melting the plastic? I've read plenty of people saying to not use solvent based WGR on raw plastic, but that's what they would be if I wipe the primer off with lacquer thinner. I thought I'd be getting a good product by spending the money on the genuine GM parts, but apparently not.
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Just to clarify this... a solvent based wax/grease/remover does NOT contain a solvent mix like lacquer thinner. Regular wax/grease/removers have more of the less aggressive naphtha, mineral spirits, etc., type solvents that usually don't have time to attack the plastic. And again, I too, am not a big fan of just wiping off any weak primers with lacquer thinners as they can not only attack the plastic but actually contaminate it leaving a semi-tacky or even distorted surface. I usually will just end up sanding off those primers then do a wipe down with a water based wax/grease/remover. Those are made of simple alcohols/water mix.
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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The naptha worked well for removing the adhesive without taking much of the primer with it. Thanks for the tip. Unfortunately, the 2K aerospray clear I ordered from Eastwood spit and sputtered all over my work, so now I get to sand them down and redo. Oh well, more practice, right?
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Yep, you chase your tail a lot in auto painting......
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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