Motorcycle plastics ?

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 7:26 pm
Hi guys......another newbie here to the forum as well as to painting.I'm looking for advice/tips/pointer etc on my first ever attempt to paint a new fibreglass fairing of a motorcycle,plastic side panels and a metal gastank.I have have some basic questions,well, I bet basic for the talent in here.I have sanded everything with 400 grit wet/dry and then finished with 1200 grit.Everything is as smooth as silk to touch.Can I list a few questions ?
Do I prime ,if so with what type or brand?
Same primer for everything?
Do I sand after primer but before paint?
What do I clean surfaces with before paint/prime?
Can I use the same paint on metal/fibreglass/plastic?
Any particular brand of paint better ?
When spraying...multiple thin coats best?

I will be doing this in a spray booth,brand new princess auto spray HVLP gun-600ml cup....anything stands out in your mind I should be aware of.? Be Kind!
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 11:25 pm
Well the plastic needs adhesion promoter.
After that you can go epoxy mixed as sealer on everything.
Next base/clear.
I would use rubbing alcohol and a lint free rag in this application. Wipe or spray on. Then wipe off.
Use a tack rag too after you clean it.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 6:18 pm
should have stopped with the 400 grit.
1200 might be too fine for the paint to "bite" into.

if you didn't get runs or overspray in the primer, no need to sand. but most people I've talked to always sand the primer always.
I'm not a pro either but a good rule of thumb it stick with the same brand and paint line from primer to clear.
of course I've also done it with other brands of primer than the paint with no side effects.

I've pained several abs plastic bodies on bikes and never used a adhesion promoter. though everyone suggest it. to me the parts are too rigid to bother with it.
if it was a soft flexible car bumper then yes. I did use bulldog's adhesion promoter on my friends subaru wrx. which can also be added to the paint as a flex agent.

spray everything with the primer. especially anything that is bare such as body filler. if you don't spray everything with the primer the colors will be noticably different from one part to the next.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 6:29 pm
serpentracer wrote:should have stopped with the 400 grit.
1200 might be too fine for the paint to "bite" into.

if you didn't get runs or overspray in the primer, no need to sand. but most people I've talked to always sand the primer always.
I'm not a pro either but a good rule of thumb it stick with the same brand and paint line from primer to clear.
of course I've also done it with other brands of primer than the paint with no side effects.

I've pained several abs plastic bodies on bikes and never used a adhesion promoter. though everyone suggest it. to me the parts are too rigid to bother with it.
if it was a soft flexible car bumper then yes. I did use bulldog's adhesion promoter on my friends subaru wrx. which can also be added to the paint as a flex agent.

I don't suggest bulldog in clear it will yellow a different shade than the rest of the parts. Great on raw plastic. Transtar makes a euro clear with built in flexative but it is expensive and comes in 7.5 liter sprayable....it goes on nice and has great DOI.
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 6:36 pm
timbo wrote:
serpentracer wrote:should have stopped with the 400 grit.
1200 might be too fine for the paint to "bite" into.

if you didn't get runs or overspray in the primer, no need to sand. but most people I've talked to always sand the primer always.
I'm not a pro either but a good rule of thumb it stick with the same brand and paint line from primer to clear.
of course I've also done it with other brands of primer than the paint with no side effects.

I've pained several abs plastic bodies on bikes and never used a adhesion promoter. though everyone suggest it. to me the parts are too rigid to bother with it.
if it was a soft flexible car bumper then yes. I did use bulldog's adhesion promoter on my friends subaru wrx. which can also be added to the paint as a flex agent.

I don't suggest bulldog in clear it will yellow a different shade than the rest of the parts. Great on raw plastic. Transtar makes a euro clear with built in flexative but it is expensive and comes in 7.5 liter sprayable....it goes on nice and has great DOI.


yeah I only used it on the fresh plastic. after using their sanding/cleaner paste stuff with a scuff pad. ppg omni has some fisheye eliminator and flex stuff for their clears.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 6:45 pm
The 1200 was in fact too fine. 400-600 would have been good.
I would not suggest putting fisheye eliminator in anything. I have Never put it in anything.
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 8:14 pm
Phew!......okay I have kind'a repeat what I think I have learned,for you guys this is easy stuff, I'm a newbie.So here goes....
A quick re-sand with 400/600 grit ( wet-dry ? ) would be better
clean with rubbing alcohol and tack cloths
Definitly primer....same brand as paint is best
Do not need to sand between primer and painting unless i get runs in primer
Best to find paint with built in flex agent

Do I to spray clear coat to get the shine? how long after painting do I do this?
Do I spray really thin multiple coats of primer and paint ?

I really am appreciating the help

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 9:04 pm
Tri955i wrote:Phew!......okay I have kind'a repeat what I think I have learned,for you guys this is easy stuff, I'm a newbie.So here goes....
A quick re-sand with 400/600 grit ( wet-dry ? ) would be better
clean with rubbing alcohol and tack cloths
Definitly primer....same brand as paint is best
Do not need to sand between primer and painting unless i get runs in primer
Best to find paint with built in flex agent

Do I to spray clear coat to get the shine? how long after painting do I do this?
Do I spray really thin multiple coats of primer and paint ?

I really am appreciating the help


If that plastic is semi rigid and won't see a lot of flexing I would get some regular clear coat.

My adhesion promoter calls for 2 MIST coats (use my mini gun usually but aerosol can promoter will work in this app) 2-3 minutes apart then 5-10 minutes flash before applying base or epoxy sealer. I pour my promoter back in the original container . As soon as I get my base or sealer mixed I'm spraying over the promoter (about 5-7 minutes). You can do base the same way that is not activated by pouring it back in the original container and save it for extra or touch up later (no shelf life on base). Can't do that with clear,epoxy,etch, or urethane primers as they have hardener, activator, or catalysts added. Also known as 2 part or 2K.

2 IFs HERE:

1). If you seal everything in epoxy sealer and you don't have any filler work to prime then go to base coat color after the epoxy flashes good. I would wait an hour or two on the epoxy to flash in 70 degree temps. After the base covers and dries (med wet coats only) with 10-15 minutes between coats, wait 30 min to 1 hour after last coat of base go 2-3 coats clear coat.

2). If you have filler to prime you will need to apply urethane primer over the area after the epoxy has flashed. The urethane primer has to dry completely (I like over nite at 70 plus degrees) then wet sand with 600 with guide coat. If the urethane is a different color than the epoxy you might need to use more epoxy reduced as sealer over the contrast to make the base cover quicker. Let the epoxy flash good. Then base/clear.

I put base on thin medium wet. I spray 2-3 coats clear wet the way i want it to look when dry. Let the base dry for 30 min to 1 hour before clearing. The clear should dry for 10-15 minutes per coat minimum. Don't rush your dry/flash times or you will get the runs. You should practice on something that doesn't matter first. Make sure you have a good spray pattern and air pressure first too. Sorry if this sound confusing or I'm repeating myself I am trying to make it as simple as I can. I tack cloth my base before clear lightly. Hope this helps some.

You are very welcome.
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 8:38 am
Hi Timbo.......can I pick your brain a bit more.? I am trying to take this in as best as I can , it's a little over-whelming, but, kind of exciting as well.

When you talk about "flashing",I assume you are talking about drying of the primer/promoter /paint which ever I am spraying at the time.Now is flashing allowing something to dry until just tacky or is it a definitive amount of time.?

Are the steps below close?

1)-I "DO" have filler on cracks and area's where some light body work was required.Therefore....I must first apply a coat of epoxy sealer over entire fairing.?
2)-Allow epoxy to flash.....how long ?
3)-Apply urathene primer and allow to flash dry overnite if possible.Can I let it dry for a week or is that too long for primer to dry.
4)-Wet sand with 600 grit. Just tack cloth it clean and dry right away after sanding?
5)-I'm going to spray final color as gloss black.Should I be able to buy the same color epoxy as the primer....if so what colors of primer and epoxy will be best if final color is going to be gloss black?

I'm confused at this part here......
[ I put base on thin medium wet. I spray 2-3 coats clear wet the way i want it to look when dry. Let the base dry for 30 min to 1 hour before clearing. The clear should dry for 10-15 minutes per coat minimum. ]

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 2:22 pm
I'm confused at this part here......
[ I put base on thin medium wet. I spray 2-3 coats clear wet the way i want it to look when dry. Let the base dry for 30 min to 1 hour before clearing. The clear should dry for 10-15 minutes per coat minimum. ]

These are flash/dry times and how thick/wet I apply.
I will be out of pocket for the afternoon but will get back up with you later. Just got on for a few minutes.


PS Glad to help. :pcorn:
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
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