Hello once again! Given my success with a rattle can paint job on a trunk lid I decided to go for the bumper. Initially I thought I'd simply spot paint some areas but while cleaning it I noticed the good spots are but a few. First of all I cleaned it with soap and water, then used some Meguiars to get some of the white blemishes off. Then I removed it and began sanding with 220 and 320 to smooth down some deep scratches. I have the whole thing sanded to 320 right now. It is still painted with the scuffed areas showing black, some deep gouges, small hairline cracks and some scratches tbat didn't go away with the rubbing compound. Now here are my doubts/questions:

1. Do I simply use Bulldog adhesion promoter on the black plastic parts?
2. Can I use Bondo Glaze on hairline cracks, scuffs and stubborn scratches?
3. Can I use any double syringe epoxy glue or is the bondo stuff different? (Just curious)
4. Before I use an epoxy repair mit on the deep gouges should i use adhesion promoter?
5. Finally would I be correct to use sandable primer over adhesion promoter on the black plastic spots and shoot basecoat over the old basecoat that's still good or should I sand the whole thing to black?

Thanks in advance, please no rattle can hate, I already know they can work if done right.

m0nkey34 wrote:1. Do I simply use Bulldog adhesion promoter on the black plastic parts?
2. Can I use Bondo Glaze on hairline cracks, scuffs and stubborn scratches?
3. Can I use any double syringe epoxy glue or is the bondo stuff different? (Just curious)
4. Before I use an epoxy repair mit on the deep gouges should i use adhesion promoter?
5. Finally would I be correct to use sandable primer over adhesion promoter on the black plastic spots and shoot basecoat over the old basecoat that's still good or should I sand the whole thing to black?

1. Yes.

2. If the paint is cracked then you must remove it, or the cracks will come back to the new surface.

3. No, do not use epoxy on a urethane type plastic bar. Use a correct urethane adhesive only. If you going to fill scratches then go back to bare plastic and then use a filler, preferably one with a plasticiser added.

4. See 3, above. No need for AP before bog.

5. Yes, provided the surface is sound. No need to take off paint that is still good but watch the edges are properly feathered or they either fry up or show through the final finish.

Almost finished, had a auestion though. How come every time I paint it looks stripped. Kind of like tiger stripes on the basecoat. Is this an illusion caused by the metallics? Funny thing, whene er I clear over it, the stripes dissapear and the paint looks fine. Hmm.....anywayd for future projects; I've read peoe usually chekically strip the bumper rather than sanding it down. Would this be a better tactic next go round? Even though it looks better now, I ha e some scratches showing. I sanded the the thing up to 800 and they still show at certain spots.