plastic panting

Anything goes in the world of fiberglass and plastic

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 11:25 am
You're going to try and cut and buff those.... Not saying it can't be done but you better "batten" them down if you are going with a rotary buffer. For me that would be affixing them to a plywood piece, then screwing that down to a bench. I'd only use my regular buffer on the largest of areas and switch to my mini air buffer for the rest of it. In fact for parts like this I don't even cut and buff, I usually sand them and do a final "flow coat" (tweeked to flow out longer and lay flatter) to avoid any cut and buff. You can really mess stuff up that flexes like this pretty fast with a buffer.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 6:18 pm
Yeah there is really no way of getting it solid enough to do that but how long do you wait to sand and flow coat?

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 9:48 am
Check your product sheets on your clear first. I usually let my clears harden up some for 3 days to a week, then sand, set overnight and hit it with my clear early the next morning while temp.s are still down. I won't kid you, you really have to tweek both your clear mix and your gun settings for a flat laying coating. Keep your gun moving pretty much continuously laying down a "wave" of clear. You might try a few samples first just to see how much you can get it to lay down.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 10:53 am
I think it has been to long I will check to see but it has been four or five weeks now! Thanks for the info

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 5:23 pm
That shouldn't be a problem. You are only going to get a mechanical bond anyway by sanding the clear before you flow coat.
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