plastic panting
15 posts
• Page 2 of 2 • 1, 2
You're going to try and cut and buff those.... Not saying it can't be done but you better "batten" them down if you are going with a rotary buffer. For me that would be affixing them to a plywood piece, then screwing that down to a bench. I'd only use my regular buffer on the largest of areas and switch to my mini air buffer for the rest of it. In fact for parts like this I don't even cut and buff, I usually sand them and do a final "flow coat" (tweeked to flow out longer and lay flatter) to avoid any cut and buff. You can really mess stuff up that flexes like this pretty fast with a buffer.
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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Settled In
Posts: 21
Joined: Thu Oct 18, 2012 12:59 pm Country: USA |
Yeah there is really no way of getting it solid enough to do that but how long do you wait to sand and flow coat?
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Check your product sheets on your clear first. I usually let my clears harden up some for 3 days to a week, then sand, set overnight and hit it with my clear early the next morning while temp.s are still down. I won't kid you, you really have to tweek both your clear mix and your gun settings for a flat laying coating. Keep your gun moving pretty much continuously laying down a "wave" of clear. You might try a few samples first just to see how much you can get it to lay down.
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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Settled In
Posts: 21
Joined: Thu Oct 18, 2012 12:59 pm Country: USA |
I think it has been to long I will check to see but it has been four or five weeks now! Thanks for the info
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That shouldn't be a problem. You are only going to get a mechanical bond anyway by sanding the clear before you flow coat.
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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15 posts
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