First post.
Been reading a lot here today and one thing I saw was to not use rattle can primers.
I've been taking an adult auto body class at the VocTech school and will be painting a new plastic bumper in 3 days.
They have primers for HVLP guns and Transtar 4603 2 in 1 gray rattle can primers.
I was hoping to prime the bumper in my garage this weekend with the Transtar and then spray the base and clear in their paint booth on Monday.
I have Bulldog adhesive to prep the bumper with before priming. Would the Transtar be OK or should I prime it with an HVLP gun?

I'm using PPG Deltron 2000 titanium sliver (metallic) and DCU 2021 Concept Urethane clear.
I've got DT 860 and 885 reducer along with DCX Hardner.
I have a DeVilbiss StartingLine gun with the DeKups that I haven't used before, but should be better than the Harbor Freight guns I've used 2-3 times in the past.

Thanks in advance.

It's not the delivery method (aerosol or spray gun) that is the deal killer, it's the product differences typically found with a single component aerosol product compared to a two-part activated (2k) product.

That primer claims to be compatible with all urethane top coats, which I don't doubt...but I do not believe it will be as durable, chip resistant or have as good adhesion as a 2k primer or an epoxy primer.

Note that some aerosols are 2k products - they have an integrated activator capsule that you mix with a special push-pin in the bottom of the can. Those are the 'real deal' just like mixing into a spray gun cup, but in an aerosol can.

Chris, thanks for the reply. The Transtar doesn't have an activator in it. Guess I'll prime it the the auto body class. They have Shopline primers, don't remember the actual number.

I just thought I would throw this out there... But I used for the first time today one of those Preval paint can/jar sprayer thing.. whatever you want to call it. You can buy them at most autoparts stores, Home Depot etc... has a glass jar that then screws onto the bottom of the "power unit" aerosol canister. you can mix up whatever paint you like, just like if you were going to spray through a paint gun, but it sprays like a rattle can.

I've got one of those Preval things sitting on the shelf, haven't used it in years.
That would be a bit on the small side to do a bumper, think the jar only holds 4-6 oz of paint.
Here's the bumper, not bolted on, just sitting in place to see what it will look like.

Preval is ok in a pinch for a small spot, but I agree...on a bumper it's asking a little too much. Plus you really need to reduce the heck out of whatever you are spraying with one of those things.

Jim you definitely need to check variants and do a few sorry out cards, for that color.

Will do.
I've shot this same PPG color before on my old bumper with OK results using a HF cheapo gun, but never on a new virgin plastic bumper. On my old bumper the color match was spot on, but spent too much time sanding and buffing the clear to remove orange peel.

Got most of this info from your site.
So far I've to washed it off with soapy water to remove the release agent from the bumper mold, then wash in alcohol, then with a degreaser, and finally scuff it up with gray scotchbrite.
I'm hoping the DeVilbiss gun will atomize better and there will be less orange peel in the clear.

Thanks for the help guys, I also decided to pull the fender and do it too as it had rock chips and a small scratch in it.
They came out much better than I ever expected. Very shallow orange peel, I'm not sure I'll even bother with it.
I used a higher temp reduce (PPG DT-885) in the clear than what I used in the past PPG DT-860. That along with what you guys mentioned, a little more reducer and a bit higher gun pressure for the clear, and a better gun made a noticeable difference in the finish product.
I have one small spot at the very edge of the fender where it meets the door. At the right angle it looks like there isn't enough base color, you can see thru the clear and it's sort of looks like the gray primer I used. Can't imagine how this happened, I did shoot a few coats of base and then sand it a bit at home before I brought it into the paint booth. It got 2 more coats of base before the clear. Don't have a pic of it, but somehow I know I screwed up. Been reading about fixing this without messing it up.
Here's the bumper and fender.

I've found that when you hit base color back over a sanded base color (sliver seems to be one of the worst for me on color) that it is pretty easy to tip your gun stroke up too soon or just simply trigger off too soon at an edge like that. Trust me, this can happen to most seasoned painter. Your overall paint/color/finish match looks pretty great.....

I'm guessing what you mentioned is what must of happened or I had the gun too far down on both passes when I did the final base coats, maybe a bit of both.
Looking at it from straight on a foot away it really doesn't stand out, however from an angle or looking at it much closer it's pretty apparent.
To fix this should I hit it with some primer, then base, and clear?
Doing base first can cause the clear to lift, right?
I have a detail gun and an air brush (never used either of them before).