Pot metal repair with fiberglass?

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 2:52 pm
Is there any reason fiberglass wouldn't work on pot metal? I have a broken tab on the grill support near the top and it is very much structural so the repair needs to be strong. It's also very well hidden so it doesn't have to be pretty, just strong. Another terrible design by Ford :splat:
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 4:31 pm
Muggy weld will work on that. They have a few different materials for sale, but I have only tried the Super Alloy 1, and it works just as advertised on pot metal. Its not as easy as it looks, but a little practice will get it done.
http://www.muggyweld.com/

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 5:21 pm
Yeah I've seen their demos, not sure if it would work on this little flimsy piece, it's a max 1/2" ribbon of metal, really needs more meat. The other problem is, I don't have easy assess to their stuff, I assume I would have to order it which takes a fair while and costs a ton for brokerage, shipping etc. as I'm in Canada eh.

Mat and resin I have and I don't see why it wouldn't work but I can't find anything on the net to either support or kaybosh the idea, and I hate wasting my time on something that has no chance of success.
Rob

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 10:31 pm
It's like this.... I've done it a few times and it can work just depending on how much use/and abuse you give it. Epoxy resins are much stronger in the same application but as you said... You've got what you got on hand. Might want to do a few layers "wet on wet" and chop up the mat to fibers less than a half inch long on the first layer. Make the next layer regular mat.
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 11:07 am
Thanks Darrel. I don't think it would have too much force pulling on it once it was bonded, then again every mustang grill support/headlight bucket part has this piece broken on both sides. Guess we'll see, I'm thinking of making a small box shape out of regular sheet metal to go inside it and bond the whole thing together for extra strength. I'll have to take a pic of this later
Rob

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 11:31 am
That's a very good idea. Anytime you can increase the surface area of what is holding things together you obviously decrease the chance for failure. I've had to do similar things on kit cars especially around mounting points for "fixtures." I've had entire tilt noses that had NO mounting hardware glassed in at all...... duh..... :knockout:
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 3:16 pm
You are on the correct path. I used muggy weld and it worked ok. I'm on another project ('66 Mustang Convertible) and it has the same issue. I've heard that ALL of them have this same problem folks suspect that MANY came from the factory broken. On this one I'm using a reinforcement patch that I got from NPD (I'm sure many of the other venders sell them also). it is called a "1964 - 1966 headlight bucket repair kit". It is from Cal pony parts listed as part # BOD-646-331. It includes 2 sheet metal brackets to be riveted in and some JB weld (they are about 3" long, 2" wide and 3/4" deep). I think it cost about $40. I'm sure you could fabricate your own but take a look and it will help you to see the shape they use. AND I feel your pain with shipping stuff. I'm in Alaska and have the same issues you face with shipping. Funny but I have to order most things using the international "desk". Good luck!!! Mel

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 9:18 pm
Here's some pics of the offending area, there doesn't appear to be any logical reason for the hole to be there, nothing needs clearance, it's under the front of the fender. Had they just had it all solid, it would have been far more durable, as my son always says, you bought a ford, what do you expect :wink:

Anyway I mocked up a piece and was about to post and saw your comment Mel so I looked up the part # you referenced, looks similar to what I was toying with I think?

Image


This side is just broken in one spot, the other side has an inch or so missing

Image

Image


Here's the piece I'm going to attach, hadn't thought about JB weld but I did think about rivetting first but I figure glassing it in will work as well as JB would? Still needs the hole drilled and some final tuning.

Image
Rob

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 11:17 pm
Yeah, that looks good. I think you'll be fine glassing that in. JB Weld would be okay too but I don't think its' needed here. You'll have plenty of strength in that area.
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