Cut hole, fill, mold to shape in ABS motorcycle fairing

Anything goes in the world of fiberglass and plastic

User avatar

Board Moderator
Posts: 6683
Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2004 7:00 pm
Location: central Ohio
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 6:30 pm
Well, in my opinion, you are taking too much of your filler off and need to be blending it out into a larger area. The idea, especially with body putty like this, is that you want to get out beyond well beyond your repair to feather in to the surrounding area. If you work it like it is right now you will have a couple of "halo" rings.... one around your repair material, and the second around the transition between the abs I see and the paint. Even those die grinder digs would probably show up. Maybe Chris can comment on this as well....
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!



Top Contributor
Posts: 6234
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm
Location: Pahrump NV.
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 11:42 pm
I would have done it more like Criss said.
http://www.urethanesupply.com/
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

User avatar

Settled In
Posts: 97
Joined: Tue Feb 10, 2015 11:51 am

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 1:07 pm
I thought I was doing it like Chris said...except I used a product from the company you just linked to fill the ABS holes, instead of the 3M stuff.

Did I assume wrong that I'd need to use filler to do some final work before prime/paint? Either way...I'm apparently not good enough to get it right without some sort of filler and sanding.

I've put filler back on the big holes and started trying to feather it in better, as suggested by DarrelK.

User avatar

Settled In
Posts: 97
Joined: Tue Feb 10, 2015 11:51 am

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 1:13 pm
The corner with the least amount of road rash.
IMG_3816.JPG

The rebuilt corner that was ground off.
IMG_3815.JPG

IMG_3817.JPG

User avatar

Board Moderator
Posts: 6683
Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2004 7:00 pm
Location: central Ohio
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 2:15 pm
I think you'll be okay on this.... just get out well past your repairs and work on the feathering.
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!



Top Contributor
Posts: 6234
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm
Location: Pahrump NV.
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 6:37 pm
I meant welding in Plastic with there materials.
Looking fine, never said you were doing anything wrong?
Just that there is always more than one way to do a job is all.
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

User avatar

Settled In
Posts: 97
Joined: Tue Feb 10, 2015 11:51 am

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 11:09 pm
Thanks, Doright. I didn't see any abs sheets on that site, but I did see the PlastiFix video where they recreated a missing piece of a motorcycle fairing...so I thought that would do the trick. Seems to be strong enough?

I do understand that there are several different ways to get this done, and I'm happy for advice as it comes. I apologize if I appeared to not TAKE Chris' advice. I admit I'm a novice...at least, relearning something that I probably wasn't very good at 25 years ago. I did a lot of body work on fiberglass, but I didn't do much painting at all. Generally, we'd fill holes and repair defects - hit it with primer, and send it to the painters.

I'm going to find my way through the bodywork fairly easily from here out. Basically, I have a little more sanding to do tomorrow and it's done. But my biggest fear is coming in the next few days...prime/base/clear.

The plan, as suggested by the local paint supply place is to hit this with epoxy primer...something I've never worked with.

User avatar

Board Moderator
Posts: 6683
Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2004 7:00 pm
Location: central Ohio
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 12:27 pm
I've used the Plastifix several times, no failures yet. Don't worry about the epoxy.... piece of cake to shoot. The idea is to seal everything off so your next layers lay down nice and flat with no ghosting/transfer, etc.
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!

User avatar

Settled In
Posts: 97
Joined: Tue Feb 10, 2015 11:51 am

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 6:45 pm
How much fun is this? Lots...
IMG_3826.JPG

The tricky part was getting this part hung so that I could get all of the edges and part of the back that shows once it's installed. Bungee and some plastic crates that a buddy let me borrow....got it done.

Second coat down. I suppose it could be better, but seems to have worked out. Dust/debris is going to be my obvious problem on base and clear.
IMG_3828.JPG

IMG_3829.JPG

User avatar

Settled In
Posts: 97
Joined: Tue Feb 10, 2015 11:51 am

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 7:51 pm
So...my next question is...is this rough surface normal for this primer, or did I screw the pooch?
IMG_3830.JPG


Also...this "halo" line is from edge of the previous paint. This is where broke through to the actual ABS.
IMG_3831.JPG


What would you suggest I do about these issues?

Thanks.
PreviousNext

Return to Fiberglass and Plastic

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 65 guests