Based on what you have shot so far and the coverage you should have enough to do it. I know though, it always gnaws in the back of your mind about running out so that's your call if you want a little "more." It's hard with a swoopy Vette but you could kind of rough out what square footage you just covered, then do a little figuring on roughly what's left. Again, I would think you would be okay.
Yeah, cut and buff is another one of those "acquired skill" things around here. Personally, I had a harder time figuring that out then actual spray work. We'll deal with it when it comes. There are a few real good guys on here for tips and info. on that process.

I can't wait to see this car put back together. It's gonna look sweet!

I ordered another quart of paint just to be safe, figured better to have and not need than need and not have. Took all the painted parts and put them in a climate controlled basement. Noted when I got them out in the light that I got some nibs and some orange peel.....peel on the doors mainly. I hope these imperfections can be wet sanded and buffed out later??? I know the orange peel is because of my technique.....what little technique I have since I am a beginner. I have heard that even the best of painters end up with some degree of peel. What can I do to reduce the orange peel on the main car and hood when I shoot it next week?

Im a noobie as well, i believe when it comes to orange peel, to get better results make sure your gun distance is 6-8 inches or what your gun requires, also upping the pressure a couple psi is supposed to make less orange peel from what i understand. But lets see if anyone more knowledgeable has the answer.

Nope, Wahoo is correct. It is the minor tweeks he has mentioned plus.... well, just experience. One thing we can't jump through the internet and do here is "watch" you walking the gun back and forth. That speed determines how much coating you lay down and how it flows out. I learned to spray in a completely different world than you guys. I come from a wood finishing background where coatings were expressed in "wet film" thicknesses that we could check with a wet film gauge. It went like this.... a finish manufacture would spec. a single coat as 4 mils wet. That might be a 25% solids product, so if I could spray and check my coating with that gauge I knew that was the max. coating that would leave a level flowed out 1 mil dry coat thickness when I was done. Most of the auto guys learn spraying just by "eyeballing" thickness to the point of running and hoping it levels without running or worse developing a curtain. Hammering it on too thick can take orange peel further with a wave to mottle condition.
Can you fix your orange peel? Absolutely, everybody get some somewhere on the vehicle especially with curvy abstract shapes like you are dealing with.... again don't panic... that's why we work in base/clear. The cut and buff will work it out....

Excellent!!!!! Feel much better now. I mean, the peel is not that bad and unless you get up close and eyeball it the casual observer may never see it but I put this much effort into it I want it to the best of my ability. I think I may have to back my gun up a bit....honestly I average 4-6 inches instead of 6-8 and I am so paranoid about a run I move along at a good clip. I don't want to try hammering at my early experience in painting. I pretty much got a good result with my first try I think I will keep the same walk speed but back the gun up a tad. I put a disposable water trap before the regulater on the gun and in order to get 30lbs at a full pull I got to run about 55lbs to the gun. Don't know if I can up it much more.
I finally got that spindle removal tool and no wonder it cost so much....the thing is 3/4 inch thick steel and weighs 18lbs. Has the directions engraved in the side of it. I will post some pics for me taking the spindles out...not autobody related but interesting none the less. I hope to get all the mechanics done in time to shoot the body and hood next week....but then again my schedule is gone.
Now.....I need to purchase some materials for the cut and buff. I have 2 variable speed DA sanders....not expensive ones....should I use what I have or do you have another suggestion for a tool. I got this idea that I will wet sand by block with 2000 grit then hit it with 3m denibbing compound......am I on the right track or way off base? When it comes to buying these supplies please draw it in crayon for me for again I am in uncharted waters with a rowboat.

Okay, on the cut and buff.... Most guys start with 1000 to 1500 wet by hand. You may find that just doing 2000 grit will not level your degree of orange peel. The peel must be "cut level" and not just skimmed over with paper. Use one bucket with some Dawn in it to help lube the paper. I use a second bucket to keep my paper clean. The decision past that point is if you are going to further go to 2000 the same way then switch into compounding or.... go to a 3M Triaczt style 2000 and successive 3000 special grit pads on a DA. I've done it both ways. Personally I like using those ultra fine pads on one of my wood shops tight random orbit sanders and going out to 3000. I think it makes the rest of the compounding/buffing easier. Some guys say that's crap and even stop as low as 1500 to move on to compounding. Best to go on over to our Cut, Buff, and Detail forum here and read, read, read. Especially pull up some of 68 Coronets posts as I think he has one of the better grasps (and pictures) on how newbies should approach this and has a good handle on products. As for a weapon of choice for the compounding and polishing you should buy a Makita or Dewalt buffer... if that is not in the budget (believe it or not) Harbor Freight's current D handle buffer with digital speed control isn't bad and is light weight like the others. You will need some various pads for that. Lake County pads are my favorite starting with twisted wool, finer grade of wool, and various densities of foam pads. Auto Geek online is pretty good for anything in the way of machines, pads, compounds, etc. Again, do more reading before selecting your compound/ polishing materials. I use several different brands which I base on just how hard/soft the clear that I'm dealing with. I'm not really familiar with your clear so that might take some experimentation or tapping into somebody else on here that has done a cut and buff with your clear. Okay, I don't want to freak you out at this point but the cut and buff at minimum on a car (well, at least for me) takes about 20 hours of time. Some harder clears (especially if I have let them set a little too long) have taken me 40+ hours for the process so when you look back on this the spraying looks pretty easy.....
Hey, I just went over and checked... this is kind of a post within a post so read it all referring back to the Buffathon post that Coronet lists there....... viewtopic.php?f=7&t=24308

20+ hours of buffing out does not phase me....like to buff more than sand. That is a lot of good info....I will PM 68 to see if he has any knowledge of the clear I have used and some random questions on the buff.....thank you!

Well I PM'd 68 and he was good enough to respond in such detail it was like a bible for buffing...at least I got a good idea of what I need and what I am going to get into.
Now to blow off some steam....got up at 7 this morn and headed out to the garage with dreams to get all this mechanical stuff done so I could move on to the main shoot. Had my brand new $250 spindle press and put it on....this should be a breeze with this specialized tool. What a piece of garbage!!!!!! That thing is in there!!! I put pressure to it, beat on it, threw heat to it, I put a 5 foot piece of black pipe on a breaker bar and laid into it to the point that I thought I was going to flip the car. By 12 noon it had not budged 1 millimeter. I was pretty discouraged. The reason I wanted the spindle out is for ease of replacing the parking brakes and to put extended studs in for the Cragers. Well it became apparent it was not to be so......back to the internet. Then on the corvette forum I found this obscure thread where some fella had done what I wanted to do and got around removing the spindle. By 5pm I had one wheel done. Will attack the other tomorrow. In reality.....I would rather be sanding. That expensive spindle press???? Going back on Ebay for $200. Let someone else experience the fun.

Man, I hate when that happens..... You run into all kinds of crazy stuff like this on cars. I had a stuck suspension bolt, soaked in Kroil, lit up with a torch, hit it several times with my 450 ft.lb. premium torque gun, 6 ft. long breaker bar, and...... nothing. Ended up tracking down an industrial grade cryogenic freeze spray with oil additive..... Between that and heat shocking, two days later.... it came loose. Honestly I don't how that thing did not just twist off. Tools?.... yeah, its' a crap shoot sometimes on quality....