Looks good.

Remember, on any panel breaks you do not need to use the foam tape, you can clear right up to the edge of the panel (for example, at your rear window). Wherever you are going to taper off the clear within a panel, at a body line - that's where you use the foam tape.

OK....got a few good coats of primer on all the bad spots including the nib that was messed up. As you can see in the pic I modified my spray gun setup so that the regulator and hose come 90 degrees out to the side. This shortened the setup so that I can get a good angle spray on the underside of that upper lip. I will now let it sit overnight, sand and attempt the final repairs in the morning. I understand where you say to put the foam tape. I can leave the hard tape at the top of the ledge and the bottom of the panel but what about those fins????? They are rounded at the top.....I am thinking I should use the foam all the way down the fin to the back???????

Well, the fins are a body line, right...just happen to be a very sharp body line. Foam tape.

Glad you got your gun set up better but to be honest with you...I've never had the desire to put a right angle adapter on a gun. Enough tilt and turning the aircap to change the fan direction has seemed to work for me so far. I also cannot stand anything off the bottom of the gun including an air gauge; I use a temporary whip of hose with a gauge on it to set the gun pressure, then take it off. But I shall not judge, if it works for you then that's cool

Well this works for now and that's all that counts to me. I am sure a setup like you describe would work fine while tuning the nozzle of the gun but that is where experience comes into play. On my next spray job I will have a lot to reconsider. Block sanding....if I had realized I could have used a short block on the whole car instead of all those long blocks that came with the durablock kit....I am sure the job would have come out better. As a beginner I just did not grasp the concept at the time.Don't get me wrong I am happy with the way it came out....the front end looks beautiful but there is always room for improvement. I will also have to evaluate angles before I start the spray job....keeps from doing it twice. Yup....experience....that's a handy little thing to have. Well in my next project....and yes there will be another...at least I can say I have had a taste.

One more question......after I repaint and shoot the clear, when should I remove the foam and hard tape????When dry? Half dry? right away?

I like to remove tape (very, very carefully) when the clear is not fully dry. I test the clear on a spot I have hit, on the masking tape or paper, for example -- if I can touch it and just leave a very minor fingerprint then I will pull the tape. If it is still stringy at all, or sticks to my finger -- then no.

Those long durablocks do have their place, on larger panels. On your car with all those curves then I understand what you are saying.

Yeah, I do that same fingerprint thing with the tape that Chris does.... I also like to pull most of my tape slowly at a 45 degree angle to the tape line and have a razor blade handy in the other hand. Theoretically the soft clear like this should pull cleanly but you just run into minor hangs ups now and then. Worst thing you can ever do is let that tape stay on for a day or so.....bad, bad, bad.... you'll be "tearing" stuff as you remove it.

Now for a first timer at this....that's pretty right there. I noticed when I moved the car in a different aspect of the light I got some minor swirls that need to be buffed out still. I just went over it light with the 205. When I get the car all together and out of the garage I will rebuff it in a spot that is more conducive to seeing the results. The doors have not one swirl in them because I did them outside.

Yeah, the sun is pretty revealing. Now you know why those pro paint guys buy those "sun guns" for critical inspections. I've always felt that the cut and buff was at the same or higher skill level than the actual shoot on a car.