Late Model Plastic Bumper Cover Repair

Anything goes in the world of fiberglass and plastic



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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 3:30 pm
Victim is a 2011 Honda Accord Coupe (V6 / 6 speed manual - 280HP fun Daily Driver - just saying).

Factory paint is in very good to excellent condition (got the car a couple of months ago, did a complete detail). I have some damage from a parking lot encounter on the rear bumper cover. No rips or tears in the cover itself, just a few cracks in paint / clear and 2 spots down to bare plastic. The bumper did split around 2 of the bolt holes (where cover attaches to inner fender well via screws).

Plan is to plastic weld the splits around the bolt holes (I've done it before with motorcycle fairings / bumper covers) besides, they aren't visible at all.

I'll be using a detail HVLP gun I've had for a while.

Just making sure I've shaken enough cobwebs out to get the process straight in my head.


Clean the cover, wax and grease cleaner (avoiding the bare plastic spots - I've seen the bare plastic on these bumpers soak up the cleaner before).

Start with 180 grit and feather out the spots where the paint / clear has cracked and where it's down to bare plastic and scraped a bit.

I plan on using Evercoat (already have some) on the couple of small spots that will likely need it. Do I need to use adhesion promoter on the bare plastic BEFORE using the Evercoat?

Once I've worked the spots with Evercoat, sand to about 320 - then I'm going to use a can of that 2K aerosol primer / filler (the spots aren't big enough to use the gun for primer) the hit those spots.

Hit the primed spots up to 800 - was thinking of just using Gray pads and Scuff-It. Any downside to this? I've seen weird things in light metallic base coats when using coarser grit - or maybe I was doing it wrong before?

The car is Alabaster Silver Metallic. Well aware that most times bumpers don't match exactly the body in shade / tint. That being said, I can't decide whether I should:

Try to blend the repair with the existing paint OR

Scuff the unrepaired areas (Paint/Clear in GREAT shape) with gray pads and Scuff-It, and hit the entire bumper (off car) with BC / CC?

IF I wanted to try and blend the base (I plan on clear coating the entire cover regardless) how far past the repair area should I sand / scuff?

Would the gray (ultra fine) pads be okay with Scuff-It there?

Do I need to add flex additive to the base or the clear, or both?

Thanks in advance.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 4:56 pm
I would suggest an actual plastic cleaner over wax and grease remover as plastic parts such as bumper covers can build up static and actually create a spark and flare up. seriously! it has been known to happen. your plastic weld idea is fine. I would use 600grit to finish your primer and where you want color. the rest I would hit with 1000grit or a white scotch pad and some scuff paste, as for flex additive you can add it to your primer, and clear, as well as base if you are using solvent, but if you don't already have any honestly you can get away without. most bumpers nowadays are somewhat rigid and generally the bumper will crack before the paint in most cases.



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PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 5:15 pm
Well I dropped by my local paint supply on Friday. We got to talking and he came out and took a look at what I was dealing with.

I was **** about having to break out the hvlp gun to spray a small amount of primer (the spots down to bare plastic and scuffed etc). He suggested I try the 2K Primer / Filler that comes in a aerosol. It's made by Spray Max.

They actually stock that and the 2K (real 2K hardened urethane clear in a can) clear.

Then he told me he could reduce the paint mixed to match the factory color (Omni Plus) and put in spray cans for me. He had me take one of the cans he uses, it already had some reduced base in it, and see how it sprays.

I'm impressed.

So hopefully I can blend this repair and clear the entire bumper, since I'm taking it off later anyway.

Sanded some of the spots with 180 - doing my best to feather the spots out. I'm not sure at this point I will need any Evercoat at all.....maybe just a small amount in a couple of spots. I will start on it again tomorrow afternoon. I will try to remember to take some pics.



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PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 7:06 pm
Here's some pics after the first quick session of hitting the scuffed / paint crack spots with 180 grit.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 22, 2015 6:08 pm
Well I ended up going to my local paint supplier - he saw the damage and after talking a bit he suggested I try getting Omni Plus base reduced and put into aerosol cans. He says the kind he used now sprayed really well and worked perfect for spots repairs and blends. I also picked up the Spray Max 2K Primer Filler and the 2K Urethane Clear Coat.

Keep in mind - these are true 2K products.

Here's the results:

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2015 12:56 pm
And here it is installed - I can say I'm very pleased.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2015 5:19 pm
Nice job. I really wish most guys that pick up Duplicolor crap rattle cans would do what you did here. Aerosol work doesn't have to look like a blotchy mess IF the cans have the right pro products in them. I've used the Spray Max stuff several times myself on smaller projects and was quite impressed with the flow out.
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