Help With Painting ABS Flexible plastic

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 04, 2016 6:05 pm
Hello and thanks in advance. I'm getting ready to paint some ABS panels, I've stripped them down bare. I've done some years ago but for the life of me can't remember how I prepped them. I know I need to scuff them clean them, degrease/wax them and get and prep agent on them so it sticks. My question is what kind of primer should I use if any and do I need a flex agent in it? Also, what kind of paint would you guys recommend, Urethane, Acrylic Enamel or how about Lacquer?

Thanks,

Paul

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 04, 2016 10:10 pm
Welcome, Paul.... been awhile, huh? Some things have changed and only for the better. Basically, your schedule is correct there. And, yes, you would still need an adhesion promoter. As for primer it just needs to be compatible with whatever you decide will be your topcoat system. If they need a little "massaging" for surface straightness you could go with a high build 2k and finish up with a single stage urethane or base coat/clear coat. Just an opinion here, but lacquers and enamels never did stick to abs as well as modern urethane systems do..... oh, and I haven't used a flex additive for the last 25 years or so. Most modern paints are plenty flexible enough UNLESS the p. sheet for the paint system you choose specifically calls for one.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2016 6:16 pm
Thank You, I see you picture there and the last thing I painted was my 77 Corvette, it came out beautiful and I'm beginning to remember a few things. I used Napa Crossfire Urethane Base Coat/Clear Coat. I did put in a flex additive. I have Urethane 2k primer from Finish1 which the Napa by me carries and Cross Fire Tech Support says its ok with the Cross Fire line of paint. I just never did ABS before. So you think using no flex additive should be ok? Also, I get mixed answers when asking people about the plastic adhesion promoter. The product itself says nothing about ABS just polyolefin or non-polyolefin plastic and TP or TPO materials, which I searched and still don't know what they are, haha. Also, do you think any brand of promoter is ok to use with the Cross Fire. I did search the other posts before asking this I just want to do it once and do it right! One more thing, would I get a nice finish with a single stage Urethane Acrylic?

Thanks for the warm welcome and the response!!!!

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2016 9:53 pm
The original intent of flex additives was to make the paint "extra flexible" when parts were "off" the car and you were going to mount them. The entire industry of Paintless Dent Removal has literally grown up around the ability of the paint to move, flex, and stretch along with the damage and then be moved and corrected without involving new paint. I consider ABS to be really one of the more rigid plastics anyway. I've done many, many, plastic parts over the years and just don't use the flext stuff at all anymore. And, on the other yes, I would still use an AP. A cheap and readily available one is Bulldog. You should be able to pick it up just about everywhere including the big box auto parts stores (Autozone, Pep Boys, etc.). And yes, SSU is fine. I like them in solid colors but usually will do a base/ clear system if it is a metallic or specialty color.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2016 4:47 pm
Thanks for the advice, my confidence is back!! Just so I understand this correctly, are you saying that I can spray a clear coat over a SSU paint? Also, if I may, maybe it should be a different post. About spray guns, I used a bottom tank pressure feed gun. I see a lot of guys using the top tank gravity feed ones. Any thought on this? Pros, Cons?

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2016 5:48 pm
Yes, you can spray clear over SSU however you will get better performance out of a "paint package" if you do a base/clear system. Base/clear systems keep you from getting too much "mil thickness" buildup which can limit the flexibility of the paint down the road.
Cup under pressure guns are out now, gravity fee is in because of the increase in both solids and viscosity in new paint. A gravity feed gun also keep things better mixed as you move with no real chance for things to settle out in the gun. Newer gravity guns are also very balanced for ease of shooting. You kind of sweep the hose back as you move and the cup is "up" out of your way. Trust me, if you use one you won't go back....
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2016 11:38 am
Last Question on the guns, HVLP, I guess high velocity low pressure? I have a gravity feed and a bottom tank gun which I've painted with. I guess what I'm asking, is any gun your comfortable with OK to use? Or should I just start practicing with my gravity feed gun?

Thanks so much for the answers!

Paul

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2016 10:59 pm
HVLP refers to High Volume Low Pressure. Which really is more of a federally mandated thing that grew out of turbine gun technology as far back at the 1980s. The methodology was that increased internal CFM and reducing operating pressures as measured at the AIR CAP of 10 p.s.i. or less would essentially make a normal guns transfer efficiency go from 35% to 65 to 75%. In simple terms you would use 1/2 as much paint therefore reducing airborne pollution. The reality is some guys like em' some don't. Guys may use them for base but prefer a LVLP (that's a new breed that stands for Low Volume Low Pressure) or even better a RP (Reduced Pressure) gun for topcoats.
Bottom line.... if you can make a garden hose lay down your coating flat, go for it! Honestly, I have several styles of guns that I use and like different ones for different materials. Sooooo....run what you brung......
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