Painting Headlights, Questions

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2017 5:08 pm
Hello everyone!

Long time lurker, first time poster.

I am going to paint the bezels on the inside of my headlight housing, not the lens. I have a 2011 F250 with factory headlamps. They currently look like this:
Image

I'd like to paint the bezels to match the truck's exterior. While I have everything apart I also plan on painting the reflectors of light buckets a matte black since I am converting the headlights to projectors & HIDs.

Here is an example of a finished painted pair someone else did online. I will be doing something similar with different colors.
Image


My most important question is, should I clear coat the bezels before reassembling or should I just spray base and seal everything back up?

Any tips on prep? I figured I'd scuff everything with red scotch bright, spray some epoxy sealer, then base coat and maybe clear if suggested?

Thanks for the input,

Andrew

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2017 11:33 pm
Hi, Andrew,
Base coat has little if any UV resistance so I think you would have to clear coat over it. Your prep. sounds fine but you might want to use an adhesion promoter over that bare plastic first. You can pick up an aerosol like Bulldog at most auto parts stores. I'm positive they sell it a Pep Boys for instance. I'd scuff, hit it with that AP, and then move on as you planned.....
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2017 9:50 am
Good advice there.

Also, if you want it to hold up for any length of time, plan on using 2k automotive products and not off the shelf rattle cans.

Automotive Paint suppliers can mix paint and put it in to special spray cans for you.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2017 1:49 pm
DarrelK wrote:Hi, Andrew,
Base coat has little if any UV resistance so I think you would have to clear coat over it. Your prep. sounds fine but you might want to use an adhesion promoter over that bare plastic first. You can pick up an aerosol like Bulldog at most auto parts stores. I'm positive they sell it a Pep Boys for instance. I'd scuff, hit it with that AP, and then move on as you planned.....


I will pickup some adhesion promoter before I get started. I used some adhesion promoter a few years ago on a project and noticed more orange peel than without the adhesion promoter. Do you have any tips to help reduce or minimize orange peel when using adhesion promoter?

Also, I have heard of people using oven cleaner to help remove the fake plastic chrome before scuffing the bezels. To prevent long term adhesion problems. Is this common practice, or a suggested practice?

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Good advice there.

Also, if you want it to hold up for any length of time, plan on using 2k automotive products and not off the shelf rattle cans.

Automotive Paint suppliers can mix paint and put it in to special spray cans for you.


I plan on spraying OMNI 2k epoxy primer, Deltron basecoat, & DBU 2021 production clear. That way I can force dry the clear in the oven in 30-40 minutes @ 140 degrees.

I'd like to be able to do the entire headlight retrofit in less than 2 days as this is my daily driver.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2017 3:38 pm
Most of the oven cleaners will contain sodium hydroxide (that is caustic lye) with some amine activators so just be careful and use rubber gloves and wraparound style eye goggles. The only problem I see with using that stuff is it might take several applications to break through the chrome as it is the thickest of the plastic chromes on these cars. There was another product that was recommended to me awhile back called Super Clean which is supposed to be a little more aggressive without being much chemically nastier. Keep in mind though it does still contain sodium hydroxide. Here's a short video on it.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMm8iWW2FK4
Again, the only problem that I can see there is your chrome may be thicker or even layered. And if you are using anything that contains that lye you should do a vinegar rinse (that's acid neutralizing the alkalinity of the lye), cold water rinse, then final degreaser.
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!



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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2017 9:35 pm
DarrelK wrote:Most of the oven cleaners will contain sodium hydroxide (that is caustic lye) with some amine activators so just be careful and use rubber gloves and wraparound style eye goggles. The only problem I see with using that stuff is it might take several applications to break through the chrome as it is the thickest of the plastic chromes on these cars. There was another product that was recommended to me awhile back called Super Clean which is supposed to be a little more aggressive without being much chemically nastier. Keep in mind though it does still contain sodium hydroxide. Here's a short video on it.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMm8iWW2FK4
Again, the only problem that I can see there is your chrome may be thicker or even layered. And if you are using anything that contains that lye you should do a vinegar rinse (that's acid neutralizing the alkalinity of the lye), cold water rinse, then final degreaser.


Picked up some SuperClean 101786 Cleaner Degreaser, going to give it a go on removing this chrome plating!

I also ordered some SEM 39863 Plastic Adhesion Promoter Aerosol. Had good reviews on Amazon! Think I'm going to give this stuff a shot over the weekend!

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2017 9:25 am
You had mentioned orange peel when you had previously used an AP. Just observe this....you are just trying to get a thin film that allow for "stick" with the next coating process. You are not trying to achieve any build with it. I'm just saying this because I've used both the Bulldog and the SEM brands and I just didn't see that much difference.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 4:28 pm
Picked up the paint today. Went with DC3000 Clear this time with DCH3085 Hardener.

Any thoughts about sticking the painted parts in my oven and letting it bake @ 140 degrees for 9 minutes to fully cure the clear after spraying? I What are the chances of having solvent pop if I force dry?

Thanks guys!

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 6:04 pm
Not much of a bake guy myself. Only real advantage is you are force curing not really making the coating "better."
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 10:54 pm
DarrelK wrote:Not much of a bake guy myself. Only real advantage is you are force curing not really making the coating "better."


Normally I don't bake or force dry my work. I just let it air dry.

With these lights, I'd like to disassemble and reassemble, within the same day if possible. As this truck is my daily. So being able to force dry would be a huge benefit!
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