RapidAir Piping Kit

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 4:33 pm
Gentlemen,

I’m wish to plumb my shop for compressed air. I plan to do some painting and utilization of air tools in an automotive restoration project. I am considering using one of the kits from RapidAir. They have a kit that for around $200 comes with 100 ft of ¾” line, couplings, t’s, etc. They also have the same kit in ½” line for about $100. I’ve done a couple of searches on this site and was surprised that no one here has commented on this. In fact, I can't find anything on it here. Was wondering if I could get a response? Maybe one of you here can advise?

Thanks,

John

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 4:55 pm
I use PVC pipe,,,Just about every one on here freeks out when I bring it up. In all the years Ive been working on cars Ive never had a problem with it, and Ive put in quite a few systems.

Most of the guys on here use steel or copper pipe......................
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 5:36 pm
:pcorn:
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 10:12 pm
John,

I used the Airnet rigid piping from RapidAir to plumb my shop. It's more expensive than the kits you're considering but I was very happy with the way it installed and has performed. Quick, easy, no leaks, and proffessional looking.

I got the 3/4" BTW.



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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 8:46 pm
Raindem wrote:John,

I used the Airnet rigid piping from RapidAir to plumb my shop. It's more expensive than the kits you're considering but I was very happy with the way it installed and has performed. Quick, easy, no leaks, and proffessional looking.

I got the 3/4" BTW.


Raindem, after much evaluation and study I went with the RapidAir Maxline system. This is the aluminum lined tubing in 3/4". I pulled the trigger on it last night and should have it here before weeks end. I looked at the Airnet system, but frankly, it's more than I really need and I wish the put the extra funds into the resto of my Mustang. Anyway, thanks for your note.

Best Regards,

John



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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 12:06 am
I've plumbed several home shops for friends and businesses using standard plumbing fixtures and PEX pipe. That's the white or off white plastic water pipe thats used in most new houses and it's really quite cheap. You do need a crimp tool for it (I own a small plumbing company and have these in my truck) but you can rent them from home depot cheap. We test our plumbing jobs at 200PSI and the material is rated higher than that so there's no problem with the pressure. Two things you need to consider though. It doesn't like direct sunlight and some paints degrade it. My favorit thing about it for me is that I always have leftovers around from jobs so it's basically free for me but if you buy it from a plumbing store it's really quite cheap.

Just another option to think about, especially if you don't plan on being in the same shop forever.



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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 3:16 pm
I use pvc in mine and so does everyone i know, even the pro bodyshops use it. I plumbed my whole shop with 2 low drains and 3 air outlets for about $30.

I don`t know if he is talking about the same kinda pipe we are, cause I never used a crimp tool, all you need is a hacksaw and sandpaper to clean the pipe joints before glueing.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 10:34 pm
65fastbackresto wrote:I use pvc in mine and so does everyone i know, even the pro bodyshops use it. I plumbed my whole shop with 2 low drains and 3 air outlets for about $30.

I don`t know if he is talking about the same kinda pipe we are, cause I never used a crimp tool, all you need is a hacksaw and sandpaper to clean the pipe joints before glueing.

There are two thicknesses I know of at Home Depot. Schedule 40 being the thickest and higher pressure rating....just sayin'

Edit: Add Home Depot :goodjob:
Last edited by timbo on Wed Jun 27, 2012 8:43 am, edited 1 time in total.
Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.



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PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 7:44 am
I wouldn't use plastic pipe myself, but if someone has decided to do it they should have their information accurate.
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pvc-c ... d_796.html

At the maximum operating temperature for PVC - 140F (60C) - the strength is derated to approximately 20% of the strength at 73F (23C).
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/therm ... d_794.html

If one plummer is going to give an opinion, then we may as well what some other plummers have to say
http://www.terrylove.com/forums/showthr ... ressed-air



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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2012 1:26 am
Hey guys.
The pipe material I mentioned wasn't PVC it was pex (cross linked poly ethylene) which is a flexible piping material used in water piping. I have to agree with the article that someone posted a link to saying that PVC might be dangerous on compressed air, I have seen many failures in water systems using it as it gets older. I'm quite confident using pex for air and I'm pretty sure if there ever was a pipe failure it would rupture like an air hose releasing the air pressure instead of shattering like pvc can. That being said, it wasn't my intention to come off sounding like an expert, just wanted to let people know what I've used and what kind of results I've had.
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