RapidAir Piping Kit

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2014 7:59 pm
1MechEng wrote:Even at 100 psi, the air temperature will get quite warm.
I would run 125psi out of the compressor. Then I would reduce the air pressure at the regulator you should have on wall of the booth to 40-50 psi. Then, I would use the little valve on the air pressure gage before the gun to regulate down to the recommended gun psi (around 20-30 psi, depending on the spray gun).



Thanks, this is going to be in my garage at home. I've read some people have ran two 30' ft hoses, the first one coiled into a bucket with it coming out of the bottom of the bucket to a T, with a drip leg and then to another 30ft hose for the actual hose to run the gun. Is this something that I should consider? Also I would have after the T my filter dryer, and then regulator, and then hose to gun and gun regulator. Bucket full of ice?



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 7:35 am
Here's how I would do it in an "ideal" home garage:

Compressor --> 12"-24" flex. metal hose --> 30-50 ft. of 3/4" hard piping (galv. or copper pipe) --> "U" bend with a tee in the piping so that the water collects in the bottom of the "U" (and the tee is in the bottom of the U bend with a drain valve) --> reducer 3/4" to 1/2" --> Ball valve (for servicing the filtration unit) --> air filtration unit (water/oil, like DeV QC3) --> more piping as needed --> Ball valve --> Regulator at wall --> reducer from 1/2" to either 1/4" NPT or 1/4" NPS --> QD (optional) --> 35' of 3/8" hose --> cheap in-line particulate filter --> QD --> press. gage with valve --> spray gun.

Make sure your QD's are the high flow variety, other wise they can cause a large drop in pressure.

Oh - and save the bucket of ice for the beer. :)



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PostPosted: Sat Apr 05, 2014 9:08 am
1MechEng wrote:Here's how I would do it in an "ideal" home garage:

Compressor --> 12"-24" flex. metal hose --> 30-50 ft. of 3/4" hard piping (galv. or copper pipe) --> "U" bend with a tee in the piping so that the water collects in the bottom of the "U" (and the tee is in the bottom of the U bend with a drain valve) --> reducer 3/4" to 1/2" --> Ball valve (for servicing the filtration unit) --> air filtration unit (water/oil, like DeV QC3) --> more piping as needed --> Ball valve --> Regulator at wall --> reducer from 1/2" to either 1/4" NPT or 1/4" NPS --> QD (optional) --> 35' of 3/8" hose --> cheap in-line particulate filter --> QD --> press. gage with valve --> spray gun.

Make sure your QD's are the high flow variety, other wise they can cause a large drop in pressure.

Oh - and save the bucket of ice for the beer. :)


Why Galvanized hard pipe? I was going to use just regular black iron like whats used for gas lines.

I'm very close to running my piping. Like maybe even today!



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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2014 9:07 am
Black Iron Pipe is also acceptable to use. Good luck on your project!



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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2014 10:22 am
1MechEng wrote:Black Iron Pipe is also acceptable to use. Good luck on your project!


Thanks! So the plan will be black iron pipe, a few zig zags with drip legs then to my filter dryer which also has a regulator, and then 25ft of 3/8 rubber air line.

So far I tested the air compressor a little, what should I set the max pressure on it as? It's set to 120psi now, I believe the system says 150psi max? It's an 80 gallon, the MAWP says 200psi on the tank tag.

I just want to set the tank up safely. The more pressure I have in the tank the more time or value of air I would have available in case my compressor can't keep up? The guy I bought the compressor from put a 3.5hp motor on it because the 7.5hp went bad... I'm hoping it will still be enough since the tank is an 80 instead of 60gallon.

With my tire inflator if I pull the trigger to bleed out the air the compressor was able to still increase pressure slowly while the trigger is depressed.



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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2014 7:42 am
It's hard to say if the 3.5hp will keep up. I don't know what your tire inflator allows in terms of airflow. I'd be a little leery of replacing a 7.5hp motor with one half as powerful.

The min. psi setting is the point at which the pressure kicks back on. Right now, it will turn on at 120psi and pressurize to 150psi before shutting off. So, the 120psi setting should be OK. Keep in mind that the higher the min. psi setting, the quicker the compressor will be to kick back on.

Is your motor rated for continuous duty? If not, you may have issues with heat buildup and faster burnout.



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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2014 8:45 am
1MechEng wrote:It's hard to say if the 3.5hp will keep up. I don't know what your tire inflator allows in terms of airflow. I'd be a little leery of replacing a 7.5hp motor with one half as powerful.

The min. psi setting is the point at which the pressure kicks back on. Right now, it will turn on at 120psi and pressurize to 150psi before shutting off. So, the 120psi setting should be OK. Keep in mind that the higher the min. psi setting, the quicker the compressor will be to kick back on.

Is your motor rated for continuous duty? If not, you may have issues with heat buildup and faster burnout.


It does say continues duty on the motor.

One thing I was wondering about is if I should take the load off that pressure switch so when it cycles the compressor it activates a contractor instead? I also found that it doesn't have the safety relief valve... It was by passed at one time... So I bought a 1/4" Tee and I need to pick up a pressure relief valve. What pressure should I go with for the relief, the tanks tag says MAWP 200 PSI?



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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2014 1:30 pm
You probably want your relief valve preset at 150 or 160 psi ... just slightly higher than the max. psi fill for the tank.
Lots of the relief valves are 1/2" and 1/4" out. Your tee probably isn't even needed.



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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2014 2:25 pm
1MechEng wrote:You probably want your relief valve preset at 150 or 160 psi ... just slightly higher than the max. psi fill for the tank.
Lots of the relief valves are 1/2" and 1/4" out. Your tee probably isn't even needed.


What about taking the load off the pressure switch? I also need to have a means of a power switch for the compressor.

Right now I have it plugged into a 230v outlet > the cord is then connected to the pressure switch and the other side of the pressure switch is connected to the electric motor.

Any thoughts on this?



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2014 10:11 am
http://www.aircompressorpartsonline.com/images/How_to_Install_Pressure_Switch_Air_Compressor.pdf

Is this what you're looking at?
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