Priming With Turbines

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2014 12:08 pm
I like to use compressed air with primers, but decided to try the turbine. So, I put the siphon cup on my C.A.T. gun, switched to the 1.4 tip, and sprayed unreduced Kirker white epoxy primer on a bumper cover. It sprayed with little OP, and easily flattened with P600 wet. Basically, the same results as I had with compressed air. Next I'll try it with reduced epoxy as a sealer. I'll be very happy if it sprays as well as with a compressor, because the turbine is SO much quieter!

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2014 6:07 pm
Yeah, that quiet thing is pretty neat, huh? I actually have my wood shop hard plumbed so the turbine is at the other end of my shop. It pulls in nice clean air and I only have air hiss of my bleeder gun and my vent fan. You can carry on a conversation easily. Ed, as you are finding out, there is not too much that can't be sprayed with your system. Just watch out for those high build polyesters (you know, G2, Featherfill, etc.). Don't want to turn that nice CAT gun into a paperweight! :)
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2014 8:23 pm
I bought the CAT gun with a 2.0 tip for latex. Even with cooled air, still got tip dry, so I bought a 2.5 tip for it, which helped, but still needed to be wiped occasionally. I don't think I'd take a chance with poly primers. Anyway, I liked the CAT gun better than the TP gun, so I bought a second one for use with solvent based paint.
However, I think high build urethanes using the 2.0 tip would be okay. I did spray a little Kirker Rapid Prime with the 1.4 tip, and it was okay, needing about the same amount of sanding as with the compressor. Rapid Prime is fairly thin, and I use a 1.4 tip even with compressor guns. (Tech sheet says 1.4-1.6)
I took your advice and sprayed some PPG 2021 clear. There was much less OP with the better flowing clear, just like you said there'd be. The one thing I don't like, is the slow speed. I guess I got spoiled by the much faster Plus gun.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2014 10:22 pm
Yeah, you just develop a different gun speed with these units. That's the main reason they never caught on with production guys. If a guy was really used to moving fast the results with these systems were terrible especially with budget clears.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 12:13 am
I used a couple of budget HS clears, both of which laid down like glass with the Plus gun, and had some OP with my SATA HVLP gun. But with the turbine, no matter what I did, there was more OP than the SATA gun.
PPG 2021 clear was much better, not as good as the Plus, but about the same as the SATA. I guess that's why most guys use conventional or RP guns rather than HVLP.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 2:40 pm
Yes, you've tested your way into knowledge base of exactly why higher quality clears are really different. And, yes, urethane 2k clears do want to be more "blasted" on to the surface than the regular HVLP type guns can provide. Back when I was setting up a lot of wood restoration and wood shop owners with turbines I always hammered them about spraying the best quality lacquers. If a guy was having trouble with orange peel and overspray it was directly related to just how crappy of a clear he was using.
You know, it would kind of be interesting to test one of those 6 stage Titans with some of the clears......hmmmmm
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 7:09 pm
Seems like the turbine industry is aiming to win over auto painters. My cousin is restoring a '64 Olds, having whatever he isn't capable of, done by his friends at a resto shop. He says they recently bought a turbine unit for lacquer jobs, mostly 'Vettes, and the painters really like it. They would never have considered it, but a salesman came by and left a demo for them to try. Next time I speak to him, I'll ask which unit it is.



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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 10:22 pm
I sprayed some more Kirker Rapid Prime, this time using the 2.0 tip. Came out much better than the 1.4 tip, needing almost no sanding. Since the biggest problem I have with the turbine is spraying clears, I'm going to spray a test panel using the 2.0 tip. I figure it can't hurt to try.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 10:52 pm
Again, it will depend a lot on the clear but I think you'll find that the 2.0 will put too much clear on causing some mild solvent pop or very extended dry time at the least. It might also actually increase orange peel. If it starts to look kind of rough as you lay it down don't be tempted to stroke back over an already wet area as with a 2.0 that will almost guarantee a run or curtain. Just keep moving and see how it flows out.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 10:08 pm
Worked okay, but I had to dial down a bit. No difference in OP at all. No solvent pop, but yes, dry time was pretty long. Not a total loss, experimenting is fun.
So, I switched back to the 1.0 tip on the CAT gun. I decided to use the TP gun for the white ground and pearl coats on the bumper cover. Not having used it for quite some time, I'd forgotten that the air cap doesn't move freely when the fan needs adjustment. I managed to get it where I wanted it, then sprayed the ground coat. Perfect. Nice and flat. I used Limco Supreme Plus, covered in 2 coats. The first pearl coat also laid down perfectly, but during the second coat, the gun started dripping. So now I have drops that have to be sanded out. I'll wait until tomorrow to sand the whole cover and respray the pearl.

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