Help me pick some tools for my first paint job!

Any questions about tools or supplies. Post your compressor/gun questions here.



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PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 8:52 pm
There is a sale at harbor freight right now, so i figured I would provide some links and see if people have any experience with some of these items. If you can reccommend other budget tools that would be very helpful too!!!

6inch variable speed Dual action polisher http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-Varia ... NyJ9%0D%0A

Purple HVLP spray gun - I've read this is a decent gun from harbor freight? Right now i have the Devilbiss Startingline Kit(2 guns) so would this be worth adding to what I have? http://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-8-cf ... MSJ9%0D%0A

6inch air palm sander w/ self vacuuming http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/ ... 98895.html

I don't even have sanding blocks yet, but I think I'm going to go with the 7 piece Dura Block kit.

I have an 80 Gallon Air compressor, and that it for the tools I need to paint my car, so any recommendations?

Thanks



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PostPosted: Fri Apr 04, 2014 6:47 am
We don't have HF in Oz so can't speak to the quality of their items you have listed but can recommend the Durablock kit, it's good



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PostPosted: Fri Apr 04, 2014 10:36 am
Wahoo -
The HF spray gun won't be an upgrade over your StartingLine guns. The purple HF gun is a cheap Chinese knock off. The assembly quality is sporadic, and the machined holes are inconsistent at best. As a result, the spray pattern and atomization quality can't be relied upon. Better to save and get a FinshLine (~200) for better quality, or step up to a Tekna Copper (~$350) for professional quality results.
If you are going to do a bit of spraying (more than just the occasional primer/sealer/filler), then a good gun for basecoat/clearcoat is a really, really good idea.

I haven't used any of the other HF tools you listed, but I imagine that you get what you pay for in terms of quality and durability/reliability.

My $0.02 worth.



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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2014 12:22 pm
As everybody in this industry knows, most of the time u get what you pay for in tools and supplies. But there is a hand full of cheap easy things u can pick up that will work fine. From HF I'd say grab the plastic pry bar set, they're small 3" air buffer/polisher kit and get the sanding pad for it to use as a DA in tight spots. The infamous purple gun comes in handy every now and then, for $10-$15 it don't hurt to have one layin around. I actually use em for sprayin wood stains. The pack of disposable gun cups fits my primer gun but they do leak sometimes. And just to save a couple extra $$ get a pack of 40grit sand paper for rough shaping ur filler. Any sandpaper better than that they can keep!



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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2014 4:26 pm
DeviousDesigns wrote:As everybody in this industry knows, most of the time u get what you pay for in tools and supplies. But there is a hand full of cheap easy things u can pick up that will work fine. From HF I'd say grab the plastic pry bar set, they're small 3" air buffer/polisher kit and get the sanding pad for it to use as a DA in tight spots. The infamous purple gun comes in handy every now and then, for $10-$15 it don't hurt to have one layin around. I actually use em for sprayin wood stains. The pack of disposable gun cups fits my primer gun but they do leak sometimes. And just to save a couple extra $$ get a pack of 40grit sand paper for rough shaping ur filler. Any sandpaper better than that they can keep!

What would you recommend for sand paper, what brands? I bought that $35 HF hand sander/self vaccuuming, it has little brissles on the pad, my friend let me dry 180grit 3m 6" pads and they don't stick to the sander very well, maybe the sandpaper was old or something.



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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2014 6:33 pm
I'm not sure what u mean by brissles on the pad, but 3m and norton paper is easily available to me so it's what I use.



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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2014 10:29 pm
The sander you are talking about uses hook and loop (velcro) backed paper, the adhesive backed paper will not stick to it.

Kelly



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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2014 8:42 am
carolinacustoms wrote:The sander you are talking about uses hook and loop (velcro) backed paper, the adhesive backed paper will not stick to it.

Kelly


Should I change the pad to the other type that will allow me to use the stick on sandpapers?

Is it more cost effective?

I sand by hand near the body lines right? Is there a certain type of sanding block for these areas?



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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2014 7:15 pm
wahoo wrote:
carolinacustoms wrote:The sander you are talking about uses hook and loop (velcro) backed paper, the adhesive backed paper will not stick to it.

Kelly


Should I change the pad to the other type that will allow me to use the stick on sandpapers?

Is it more cost effective?

I sand by hand near the body lines right? Is there a certain type of sanding block for these areas?



It is a personal preference I guess more than anything. I use velcro paper everyday in the shop because it is more convenient than the stick on for me. With the sticky backed paper, I always had trouble with some of the glue staying on the sanding pad and then you have to stop and clean the pad off or you will have pigtails from the small glue spots causing high spots in the paper.

For the edges and near body lines, I do recommend hand sanding. I use dura blocks mostly, they do use a sticky backed paper, but i believe they also have a few that use a velcro paper available. You can get a decent assortment of dura blocks for around $45 or so to get started. You can also make sanding blocks out of various hard materials to fit different shapes if needed. I have several I have made from measuring sticks, aluminum straight edges, PVC pipe lol. If you do make a few of your own blocks, make sure to round any sharp edges or they could dig in and cause more problems than they solve. Always make sure you use the longest block possible if you are trying to get a panel straight, and the smallest block possible if sanding runs, dirt nibs, etc. Hope this helps

Kelly

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