What spray gun is recommended

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 8:14 pm
Hi all
I am restoring an old 1959 GMH holden wagon, I am taking it back to metal and stripping for a complete respray, I have sprayed panels and cabinets b/4 but this will be the first at a whole car. I am utterly confused with different opinions from a multitude of people including professional body shops etc. :knockout:
I believe in my ability and expect a 90%+ result, still far from perfect I know.
OK here we go
I will be spraying at home, the original paint was acrylic ( which I prefer) What should I spray Acrylic or 2k
If 2k can I etch prime and prime with acrylic and 2k base and clear
If acrylic do I need clear coat at end
What spray gun some say 1.8mm and others say 1.4mm and 1.6mm for base coat and clear acrylic. I have cheaper guns 2.0mm for primer.
What make and model of gun should i buy, some say $100 gun is good enough for my inexperience others say spend $500 + on Sata, Iwata, Warwick etc
I am not expecting a show car finish, i am retired and this is a hobby
Help, Help please this will be my final go b/4 i start spending money :bighug:

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 7:42 am
FC wagon, eh? Don't see too many of them.

rickjen wrote: What should I spray Acrylic or 2k


Up to you. A lot of period cars like this are done in acrylic because it is more like the original finish.

If 2k can I etch prime and prime with acrylic and 2k base and clear


Yes you can. Stick with the one brand of paints and usually their acrylic primer is approved for use under 2K. Certainly the case with PPG and Cromax (DuPont). Make sure the primer is completely dry before sanding and spraying the 2K and you won't have a problem. Just be aware that 1K primer doesn't fill as well as 2K so your underlying substrate needs to be good. With acrylic much of the final result comes from wetsanding and buffing so there is a lot more work but it is forgiving in that respect - you can correct your mistakes. 2K is better off the gun but not as forgiving, plus you have the drama of isocyanates.

If acrylic do I need clear coat at end


It's optional but not really necessary with solid colours. Definitely required with metallics/pearls.

What spray gun some say 1.8mm and others say 1.4mm and 1.6mm for base coat and clear acrylic. I have cheaper guns 2.0mm for primer.
What make and model of gun should i buy, some say $100 gun is good enough for my inexperience others say spend $500 + on Sata, Iwata, Warwick etc


Start by forgetting about HVLP. It's not required here and the RP guns spray much better. Then forget about the Supercheap type store guns. That puts you into mid-range and there are lots of options at around the $200 price point. From Devilbiss there's the FinishLine FLG5 (buy from Europe, not America) or Iwata have the Air Gunsa AZ3HTE2 (also cheaper delivered from England then here). Both quality guns worth more than their asking price. Don't overlook Star - industrial quality and the new 4000 series (red body) are as good as the FLG5/AZ3HTE2. Good parts and service backup here too. For a smaller gun the Star SMV1000F is one of the best guns I've ever used.

For acrylic you'll probably want a slightly bigger tip. 1.4mm or 1.5mm, while for 2K the 1.3mm will be fine.

Get some practice panels from a wrecker and get your technique right before you start, regardless of which paint system you choose.

Good luck!
Chris



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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 4:06 pm
Hi Chris :goodpost:
Thanks for your quick reply, sounds very much like your advice is from the heart and experience. I think my problem has been asking the professional people who mean well but have an agenda to sell what they stock not what is best suited to me the beginner or hobbyist. I think I will go acrylic as I am thinking about the dangers for neighbours and me as you indicated. I am going to go for your advice re spray gun probably iwata HTE2. One last question my compressor is a 100 ltr tank capacity 3hp with 9 - 10 CFM FTA will the gun work with that OK.
Once again thank you heaps for your advice :bighug:
regards
Rick
PS Your right FC Wagon is a great car and I have been lucky enough to find one with nearly zero rust, never been in accident and locked up in a barn for the last 37 years ( 63,000 original miles) But all paint has cracked ( crows feet) to metal with surface rust only

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 7:24 pm
That compressor sounds a little small to me. I have painted with a 3hp compressor, but I had a couple extra tanks connected to give more capacity. I would let the compressor catch up between coats.

Another possibility is to connect 2 compressors in parallel. This will give more cdm capacity. You may need to make some adjustments to the pressure switches to get both compressors to come on at about the same pressure.

Good luck



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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 8:42 pm
Thanks for your comments, will have to think of doing something like you suggested as this compressor I have is the largest available "15amp" 240v that I could purchase without going 3 phase here in Australia. Going by what you said even a HVLP would not be good enough also.?
I will start looking for another tank that I can hook up, I am not a quitter .
Thanks again
Rick

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 11:26 pm
3hp with 100l tank you'd expect would be more than 10cfm. None of those guns I listed are air hogs - all run happily on my compressor which is 2.75hp with only a 50l tank but about 14cfm.
Chris



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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 12:51 am
Hi Chris
Hence my confusion from day one, The compressor I was recommended to buy, only 3mths ago was this one. RAB3800/100/3
J M Ross. Rating at 15CFM total but was told to ignore this and look at Free To Air at the gun which is rated by Aust Standards at 9.7CFM( min). I was told that it draws 12.7amps ( hence the 15amp plug). To go any larger I would need at least 20amp single Phase circuit ( and only 2 manufacturers could guarantee 13CFM FTA ), or 3 phase or petrol driven. Also told that there are plenty guns on the market that work well at around 10cfm and spray a whole car successfully and unless I was going into full on business this compressor would be enough to do a very good job. I went ahead and brought it and now looking for the best gun and outlet size for acrylic base coats that my compressor can handle. I am just about to order Iwata AZ3HTE2 or Star 4000 series based on forums recommendations. Do I go ahead and obtain one of the guns and also look for extra storage tank as well? :neutral: :? :?

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 7:25 am
I guess I should clarify that the last time I painted with a compressor that small, I was still using a Binks siphon feed gun spraying acrylic enamel. Those old guns probably used a lot more air than a modern gravity feed gun. I got bigger compressors before I got modern guns.

I still like the idea of an extra tank for your setup. It gives a little reserve air capacity and it gives a place for some water to drop out of the air stream saving your filters a little.



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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 4:41 pm
thanks for the clarification, it would not hurt to have an additional storage tank and have a friend that has one he no longer uses but is in good condition.
Thanks also to Chris for his advise and the forum for allowing me access to the unbiased information above and look forward to finding out how good a sprayer I am now knowing I cannot "blame the tools" if it does not work out
regards
rick
NB "it will work out"

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 7:40 am
Rick, the AZ3HTE2 uses 200lpm at 28psi with a 1.3mm or 1.5mm setup. Your compressor is rated to 270lpm so plenty of capacity there, especially with a 100l tank. My tank is half that size, although the compressor is rated a little higher and it works just fine.

You will have plenty of air. Set up your lines, filters and regulators properly, drain the compressor daily, or before/after each job and you won't have any problem.
Chris
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