Littlevil wrote:You know the dew point at which water is seperated from the air is almost freezing tempatures? Hence on industrial air dryer system have a Seperate refrigeration system.
His contraption does none of this

Quit embarrassing yourself.

To the OP Temp drop is the key to stopping water you can build a good cheap system with a cheap $20 air filter/water filter trap from Harbor freight the big cheap blueish grey one with a regulator on it and an extra air hose and a large Ice chest filled with ice and water. Take 50 feet of air hose hook it up to compressor coil up the rest of the air-hose throw it inside the ice chest fill with water and Ice attach outlet of air hose to inlet of water trap attach water trap to the side of the Ice chest use some wood screws make sure you attach it rite side up because it wont work upside down or on its side, on outlet side of the filter hook up another air-hose to attach your paint gun too.
I would also use the inline water driers that Nate mentions using rite at the gun.
keep an eye on main filter and drain often also your in line filter driers some change color when they get saturated with moisture blue to Pink that would be the type I would look for when buying.


Nate
I was gonna chime in on this thread with my system but mine Like yours its over kill for what the OP needs or wants or even most guys here on forum a guy with a 3 hp 8 cfm compressor with a 30 gal tank, Too few hear even with a 80 gal tank and a 5hp compressor with an 10-11 cfm pump are really not all that interested in truly stopping and trapping the water in there systems most consider a toilet paper Motorgaurd filter all they ever need I figure its there tools there paint oh well.

I like your set up a LOT! Physics!
I also have an elaborate system similar to yours But I like how your coming strait out of the Pump going to the condenser then water trap then to the Air Tank on to system plumbing and the extra Devilbiss QC3 filter.
I bet your air Tanks wont rust out nearly as Bad or as fast as Mine are!
Ingenuous I like it a lot! I think I will be Modifying my system to something very similar to yours thank you! Were did you find the condensers? do you have any idea how much they flow?

Also I have never had to replace my desiccant ever! always stays blue on the indicator!
I betcha you don't have to either!

Doright wrote:Nate

I was gonna chime in on the thread with my system but mine Like yours its over kill for what the OP needs or wants, a guy with a 3 hp 8 cfm compressor with a 30 gal tank, Too few hear even with a 80 gal tank and a 5hp compressor with an 10-11 cfm pump are really not all that interested in truly stopping and trapping the water in there systems I figure its there tools there paint oh well.

I like your set up a LOT! Physics!
I also have an elaborate system myself similar to yours But I like how your coming strait out of the Pump going to the condenser then water trap then to the AirTank on to system plumbing and the extra Devilbiss QC3 filter.
I bet your air Tanks wont rust out nearly as Bad or as fast as Mine are! Ingenuous I like it a lot!

I think I will be Modifying my system to something very similar to yours soon thank you!
Were did you find the condensers?

I got the a/c condensers off of ebay. They are universal and brand new. $40 each. I didn't want to spend the time junk yard diving for unknown quality. You can get the correct a/c fittings at O'Reilly Auto Parts, so that makes it easy to hook up.

I used braided teflon hose between the compressor head and condenser because the air is so hot. I would have your hose supplier make up the hose. It was a bear to work with.

If you're interested, I've got a lengthy post on how I put it all together. It's called "Ultimate DIY compressor dryer." I documented it all there.

I can't take credit for the idea. I saw one rudimentary setup on youtube. I just refined it. I may put the a/c condensers outside because when I was painting my truck, I dragged my back against the lower front corner. Hurt like hell. It works so well that I don't think I'll even need the inside air-conditioned air, and now that I know that the dew point of 175 degree air at 78% RH is 165 degrees thanks to Chris, I'm sure of it.

I wanna move my compressors out side period (WHAT!) LOL!
When I do I will probably do the modifications, I thought they looked like after market condensers, No problem on plumbing I can handle it I understand the concept no drawings needed I love physics.

I need to get one of those Crimpers for that type of hose clamp system end fittings I need to fix my hose plumbing at the dishwasher any way.
I kinda figured that nylon hose would handle some pressure, hadn't seen any one using it yet short of the over priced deal through Eastwood, I have never used it before do you need a different crimper for larger diameter hose/pipe? or is it one size fits all? would want to do 1" and normal 1/2"

Wanna plumb my yard sprinkler system wonder if using that stuff would be cheaper than PVC?

Doright wrote:I wanna move my compressors out side period (WHAT!) LOL!
When I do I will probably do the modifications, I thought they looked like after market condensers, No problem on plumbing I can handle it I understand the concept no drawings needed I love physics.

I need to get one of those Crimpers for that type of hose clamp system end fittings I need to fix my hose plumbing at the dishwasher any way.
I kinda figured that nylon hose would handle some pressure, hadn't seen any one using it yet short of the over priced deal through Eastwood, I have never used it before do you need a different crimper for larger diameter hose/pipe? or is it one size fits all? would want to do 1" and normal 1/2"

Wanna plumb my yard sprinkler system wonder if using that stuff would be cheaper than PVC?

You could get a single-ear crimp-style hose clamp kit from Amazon. I bought the two-ear crimp-style, which sometimes makes it hard to get to both. The regular screw type hose clamp will work, too, and is probably preferable because once you put this beast together, there will inevitably be leaks, which means you'll be undoing a lot of hose connections.

Not nylon. Teflon. Wasn't that expensive at my local specialty hose supplier. I think about a buck a foot.

Yes - Physics! Nice job Natemoore and Chris!

Many industrial dryers (both desiccant and refrigerated styles) reduce the RH in the airlines to less than 5%. Lab grade air is usually less than 2% with a dewpoint of -40F!

1MechEng wrote:Yes - Physics! Nice job Natemoore and Chris!

Many industrial dryers (both desiccant and refrigerated styles) reduce the RH in the airlines to less than 5%. Lab grade air is usually less than 2% with a dewpoint of -40F!

When I'm sitting around bored on a rainy day, I'll see what mine is. Maybe put a wide open spray gun in a container with my indoor humidity gauge and let it run for awhile. It would be interesting to know.

Hi Nate
I have that double ear deal for air and Gas hoses for Oxy & Acetylene but I was talking about for that red and blue hose you were using PEX? or NOB?
The the stuff they use in new home building

Doright wrote:Hi Nate
I have that double ear deal for air and Gas hoses for Oxy & Acetylene but I was talking about for that red and blue hose you were using PEX? or NOB?
The the stuff they use in new home building

The red hose is Goodyear compressed air hose from my rubber specialties supplier. The blue hose isn't really blue. It's clear, reinforced hose from Lowes rated for compressed air up to something like 200 psi. The rubber specialties guys gave me the wrong diameter hose and it's a 1:30 round trip, so I just used that. I actually like it being clear so I can watch the water trickle down into my water trap.

No PEX or anything like that. Just two-ear crimps and screw-type hose clamps.

Resist the urge to use the crimps or PEX until you have leak-tested your tees and fittings. Use the screw-type clamps first, test for leaks, then make them permanent. Ask me how I know this.