So i am attempting to repair, re surface with light body filler prep and paint an 07 altima the bumpers front and rear .and the hood ,bumpers are plastic and hood metal with road rash and chips. last time i have done any body work was about 16 years ago in boces school. Im wondering bc i have read to prep really well and not sand a metallic whats the best thing to do and what products would you recommend 3m duplicolor and how many coats of bc and cc metal hood has down to the metal rock chips i dont expect it to be perfect but im trying to get it close tips on how to avoid orange peel looking for a smooth slick end product just to shine up nice im not looking for sema quality lol --Any help is greatly appreciated and i know from prior reading everyone has their own techniques but im just looking for what ever help i can get that could end up well or much better then it looks now Thanks everyone in advance ! its the typical majestic altima blue bw9 paint code. and also if possible a D/A vs drill attachment and what grits are best looking for a clean stock look. again i know its alot any help is much appreciated

The stuff you read on not sanding metallic paint is directed towards metallic SS or BC.
On either SS or BC it may disrupt the metallics and they metallic wont have a uniform finish.

If you are sanding to paint, you will be fine sanding any metallics. On your altima, you really won't be sanding the metallic, rather the clear coat.

Coats of BC depends on the current color and the new color.
Same color over the same color may only need 2 coats. Depends on the coverage tou're getting. CC, I would say 3 coats. 2 med wet and 1 wet.

Avoiding Orange peel, you will need some skill to get it flat. Even factory paint has orange peel though, but minimal.

Best advice for that, practice spraying some clear on old panels or something and look at the results you're getting and go from there.

DA vs Drill attachment? Are you asking if its best to sand with a DA or drill?
DA definately.
On your orange peel on the final finish, you can cut and buff with 1500+ grit for a smoother finish, if you have bad peel when you're done.

Sand paper for the car, depending on body work needed, I'd say anywhere from 80-600 grit.
80 grit for rough filler shaping.
150 grit to remove 80 grit scratches and shape filler a little bit more.
220 grit to remove 150 scratches.
400 grit then 600 grit to sand primer that was sprayed on filler agter 220.
If I'm wrong, someone correct me.

This thread should be moved to body and paint forum.

Thanks very much clears up a lot !!

Man, I had a few typos in my comment.

No problem! Glad to help.

I have found the best way to learn to spray a smooth surface requires making mistakes. Of course there is a lot more to it than that, but after you have exhausted your research on proper equipment, high volume dry air, setting up the gun, quality paint products, substrate prep, and spraying technique, then push the paint application to make it run, then back off some and find that sweet spot where it flows out nice and smooth without running.