Hi guys. Just joined the forum. I have just purchased a TP Tools Turbine to paint a car I'm restoring and I have a few questions.

Mainly, I purchased the turbine because I've read some good things about them, and, more importantly, I'm able to paint in my garage with it. Since I've gotten rid of my huge compressor, I've been wondering how I'm going to do my painting and this was the answer (right or wrong. haha).

Paint color is a poly metallic.

I've been looking at using ********** materials (for primers and clears). I've heard some good things about their stuff and the price is right.

I purchased the basic system that has the gravity feed gun with a 1.0 tip and then purchased a priming gun with a 1.4 tip. I figure I can use the 1.4 tip if I need to with the clear. Also, I haven't ruled out ordering the additional 1.8 tip for primer.

So, here is where my questions start. I plan on shooting over the next month, so temps in Phoenix should be between 65 and 75, which seems to be a good time to shoot with a turbine. So here we go:

1) **********: How are ********** materials for use with a turbine? Or would you recommend another brand?

2) Epoxy Primer: I plan on laying down some ********** Epoxy Primer first. ********** calls for a 1.4 or 1.5 gun tip.

--Due to the turbine heat, I believe it is suggested I reduce the primer. I think it is suggested 20%. Based on my temps, what do you think?

--Due to reduction of the primer, should I use the 1.0 tip or stick with the 1.4?

3) 2K regular build primer: Next up, some building primer. I believe I read that high build primers do not react well with the turbine heat, so I am going with a regular build primer.

--Does this sound like a good plan?

--How much should I reduce it based on my painting temps (65-75 degrees)?

--What size tip would you use? ********** suggests a 1.7-2.5 tip. However, as usual, I'll be reducing it to counter the heat.

4) base coat: any suggestions on a good brand/paint to use with the turbine? As stated, I'll be shooting a teal poly metallic.

--How much should I reduce it based on my painting temps (65-75 degrees)?

--What size tip would you use? Most companies seem to recommend a 1.3-1.4 for a base coat. However, it'll be reduced so is my 1.0 (recommended by TP) better?

5) clear coat: I was planning on using **********'s Universal Clear. Heard some really good things about it. They have different activators ranging from fast to very slow. I assume I want the very slow. Usual questions:

--How much reducer?

--What size tip? ********** suggests 1.4 for it.

Well, I think that's about all. Sorry it's so long, but wanted to be comprehensive. I realize that I may have to play around with mixtures to get it right. I was thinking of just starting on my trunk/deck lid in case I screw up. It's easy enough to strip and start over. Any helpful tips are appreciated.

Thanks again.

Okay, first welcome to the forum..... And I've got quite a bit of experience with all turbine systems so let me start this by saying (I swear I've now said this a thousand times or so).... Get rid of "What brand of paints works best with turbine systems?" NO brand of automotive paint is designed with your turbine paint system in mind. You should have gotten a viscosity cup with your set-up and cross recommendations about the timing of that cup versus the type of material that you will shoot. Start with that, then slowly add more reducer/thinner until you get acceptable results. That's it. No brand will be better than another in that regard. If something is "high solids" in the can your viscosity cup is going to tell you what to do to make it go through your gun. NO viscosity cup???? Poor man's fluid timer is a paint stir stick.... Dip a standard length paint stir stick all the way to the bottom of a quart jar of what you have mixed....dive it to the bottom and lift it up and out 6 inch above the jar, count in seconds how long it takes for the stream coming off the stick to go to droplets. Around 5 to 6 seconds will make for a sprayable mix through most turbine guns.
As for stuff you are wanting to shoot especially those primers.... get a fairly long hose and put the turbine outside the building with ice packs at the intakes. Epoxy primers are okay doing that, just watch your timing, don't turn your gun into a paperweight. Almost always, use the slowest reducers/thinners you can buy for what you are working with... Okay, tip sizes.... they don't correlate as much with the compressed air gun tip sizes. They usually can be a size or two smaller. SPIs Universal clear could go between a garden hose and an air brush tip and it would still lay down well. Biggest advantage with ********** is the ease of use thing in my opinion. You might also look at the Tamco stuff Chris sells here. Again, just don't get too hung up on one brand being better for your system than another.

Thanks Darrell. For the reducer, do I want to go with the "very slow" vs. the "slow" as a rule of thumb? Or will the air temp (65-75) combined with the ice help this?

Also, I assume keeping the shooting surface temperature above 65 applies with a turbine as well?

Temperatures at the gun tip of a turbine system can flame out to about 126 F. after running for 15 to 30 minutes depending on number of turbine stages, length of hose, etc. Remember, the ice packs are only going to reduce the temp.s of the ambient air intake not entirely stop the heat gain in the system. It is always best to buy the slowest stuff you can get. And yes, warm room, warm metal temp.s and everything else is the same.