55 chevy body work

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 8:40 am
Hello all,

I'm new to the forum and hoping to get some information. I'm an amateur in paint and body but willing to give this a go. I'm working on a 55 chevy 210 Delray. Just finished 3 months of intense sheetmetal work, including replacing all floor pans, trunk pan, tail pan, inner and outer rockers, hinge pockets and cowl ends...etc... My dad (retired mechanic/body/paint tech) talked me into leading many of the joints. For fun..as he called it. Anyway, fast foward to my current place.

right now, the car is on a rotisserie. all the floor pans are covered in EDP coating, followed by a valspar DTM epoxy/urethane hybrid primer sealer (CPS2035). floor braces were cleaned to bare metal and coated in POR 15 along with the fender wells, inside roof, inside panels, kick panels, and hat tray. 75 % of the car still has the Dupont single stage accrylic enamel that dad used in the late 90's.

I'm currently working on the underside of the car with intentions on painting it the same color as the outside final product. This car will be a show and weekend cruiser. I plan on scuffing the underside EDP coating and POR 15 and spraying a coat of the Valspar DTM primer sealer, followed by BC/CC. Is this adviseable? I'm not concerned with perfecting the underside , but do want it to be covered in a strong barrier that looks good.

Thanks for any input... remember......I'm the newbie, do take it simple and easy on me!

Brad

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 10:18 pm
If it were me, I would strip it to bare metal and then spray your DTM primer.
I am not a fan of Por15 or other converter type products being under my Epoxy or DTM foundation layer.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2014 10:19 am
Welcome to the site. :welcome:

You've done a lot of mix and match stuff that might bite you down
the road. The leading for one; it's very hard to get a coating to stick
to it sometimes. There are several products that are better than the
old school lead nowdays.

The EDP might be a problem. Did you wipe it with thinner to see if it's
true EDP and not a cheap shipping coating? True EDP is OK, but the
wipe-off stuff is a weak point and will cause lifting of the paint above it.
"If you can't move it, paint it." - U.S. Army



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PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2014 1:10 pm
Thanks for the info. After completing all the metal work, I noticed large areas to fill. They just seemed to deep for body filler. Not having the experience to know what is preferred or what is out there, I went with the lead for its strength and resistence to corrosion. Looking back, fiberglass might have been a better route. The lead was fun though. The big problem I found with the lead is the chemical reaction to tinning. If you are not thorough with cleaning up behind yourself after the job, the surrounding bare metal will rust heavily overnight. Baking soda and water cured this for me, plus an acid metal etch.

I beleive the EDP coating is for real. I scuffed it with 320 followed by multiple cleanings with degreaser, thinner, and two different brands of surface cleaner.

my goal is corrosion protection first, followed by strength, then looks for the underneath of the car. Not being experienced, but the POR 15 is the toughest paint I have ever seen. it is harder than any of the factory paint on all my Deere equipment. Having that followed by a good sealer seems to be a great way to coat the underside. The BC/CC is more for looks.

Am I totally off base?

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2014 4:12 pm
From what I have read, the issue with Por15 is exactly what you stated - it gets hard. This hardness can cause hairline stress cracks as the metal expands and contracts with temperature changes, or as the frame/body flexes. These cracks will allow moisture in and eventually under the coating. You won't see the damage being done until its too late.

Epoxy remains flexible and has rust and corrosion inhibitors which is why most restorers prefer it to be the first thing applied to bare metal.

Now all that being said, you can do as you stated and the vehicle will out last both of us. I have found rust under many repairs that were twenty years old or more. It normally shows up as a crack in paint, which when sanded reveals a rust colored crack in the filler, that when removed reveals the rusting metal.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31

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