You said you only let the Base Flash for a Half Hour?
That's a Minimum time between BC & Clear could be solvents in base hadn't all flashed off yet trapping solvents (being older BC materials they could be slow or slower than normal?)
Waiting an hour or two between Base and clear coat would be better I would think.

Using the Incorrect Hardener could do weird things too I would think.

Just went and looked at Pics There is something going on with the base coat and clear coat with it lifting and pulling the Base like that plus It looks like Clear was Hammered on pretty good too. that mottled foggy look in the clear is trapped solvents.

The guy that mixed your Base when he was missing one of the components of the mix for the Base coat and had to call for help with a substitute throes up all kinds of flags as well.

Also what Grit paper did you use between Primer and Base coat? and how much time between Primmer and Base coat?
I bet the Base hadn't fully flashed off yet and you trapped solvents with the clear and compounded it by hammering on more clear using old base coat materials & Activator and Hardener issues all complicate things

Primed panels were block wet-sanded with 500 grit 4 hours after spraying. 36 hours later I sprayed the base. Hot day 85-90 degrees. Medium reducer with the base, and Fast hardener for clear given to be by accident by jobber. I didn't notice. 30 minutes flash between base and clear but was a hot day. This is a quick account. More details and reason for heavy clear in earlier posts on this thread. Thanks so much!

Looking at the pic, I'm thinking way too much film build, fast activator in a hot shop environment - the material just contracted really fast, and pulled away from the edges.

chris wrote:Looking at the pic, I'm thinking way too much film build, fast activator in a hot shop environment - the material just contracted really fast, and pulled away from the edges.

I agree, Also In earlier post he said he did heavy coats with the Base as well.
heavy coats not enough flash time too heavy on clear

Thanks Chris.

Just to clarify it sounds like there are two problems as mentioned in question #7 of my earlier post. Too fast of a hardener with high temperatures caused the second coat of clear to craze. The second problem is loading up the clear to cover the crazing caused the separation.

What about the earlier post suggesting 30 minutes drying time was not long enough flash time before clearing? Does the peeling indicate a not cured base or was it that the heavy amounts of clear penetrated the base because there was so much of it?

DoRight, no heavy coats of base. ( didn't know I said that)
Each panel had between 2.5 and 3 mils of material. This included the high build primer (2 coats) and the base (3 coats. first was light and the other 2 full).

I measure material thickness after the base so I know how much clear I have to sand and polish and when refinishing the panels is coming due

Just curious as to which device you are using for a mil gauge?

30 minutes should be plenty for base to flash off, especially in that booth temp. Putting the clear down too heavy may have delaminated the base, it's hard to say for sure but there are a lot of solvents in play with that thickness so it's possible.

Temps have cooled to normal here in San Diego and it will be in the mid-70s for the rest of the week. I'll be sure to get the correct hardener and give it another go. Being a bit paranoid now, I may wait an hour for the base to dry before I spray on the clear unless that is a bad idea. The tech for the clear says 15 minutes before recoat unless doing wet-coats which I am not doing. I may wait a little longer between clear coats too if its OK. Just want to be sure the base is dry and not get solvent pop.

Re: Paint meters;

The school has one of these which is what I used. Works well and its at least 10 years old but doesn't read alluminum.
http://promotorcarproducts.com/etga.htm/

and I have owned one of these for 3 years which works well too but the AAA batteries don't last long. Reads aluminum.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/1814349603 ... ps&lpid=82

The ETG you can calibrate but the Q-nix you cannot that I know of. There is .3 mils (3/10) difference between the two.

could you tell me what the actual Cross Fire number is, like 231 series or?
Jay D.

[quote="Avanti"]
DoRight, no heavy coats of base. ( didn't know I said that)
Each panel had between 2.5 and 3 mils of material. This included the high build primer (2 coats) and the base (3 coats. first was light and the other 2 full).

Hi
Strait from question one you said you did 2-3 wet coats with a 5-10 minute flash time.
What Wet coats mean to some and what it means to others may be different ?

Thanks for the pointer to the mil gauges. I need aluminum so will look at that one.

Dennis, he was talking about the clear going on wet with little flash time - not the base.